The Cho La Pass

---

Not typing from Namche, typing from the wee seasonal settlement of Dragnag at the western end of the Cho La Pass trail. We crossed the pass today in glorious sunshine but biting cold winds. Truly stunning to be standing atop the eastern end of the pass after a great scramble up a rocky trail from Dzongla early this morning.

Where did I type from last I wonder? I think it was probably the second Dingboche visit. Well, since then, we trekked up to Lobuche where I still had just enough energy after a day's trekking and an afternoon acclimatisation hike to the moraine above the serenely violent Khumbu glacier to play the highest game of football I've ever played by about 4,500m.

Then up to Gorak Shep and up to Everest Base Camp (as much of a let down as they say it is but the glacier and the mountains around it are awe-inspiring) before returning to Gorak Shep via an emotional visit to Rob Hall's chorten (I don't think he'll be needing it but I left him my compass pointing back to South Island, New Zealand). Gorak Shep will be swept away by the Khumbu glacier within the next 15 years or so but still just about stands today next to a dry ice lake. More stark reminders of climate change - there is a small patch of ice in the corner of the lake but otherwise the lake is just a dust-bowl.

Everest base camp is a collection of tents that would be crushed by the glacier if they stayed there after the climbing season and they're all in the wrong place anyway. None of the Nepalis can understand why everybody (including the Brits) has stopped using the old British base camp on the other side of the glacier from where the approach is much less risky (avoids the Khumbu icefall that kills people every year).

Anyway, yesterday morning we ascended Kala Pattar (RB & I got there just as the morning sun hit it). Hard climb but pretty straightforward - only the altitude makes it hurt. Then back down for breakfast and trek back down to Lobuche (waving goodbye to everest for the moment) and off the main trail (at last - it has been busy) and round the corner of a grand valley to the peace of a Scottish glen. Only this glen is surrounded by giants like Cholatse.

Off to Gokyo tomorrow to see the lakes (what's left of them), then ascend Gokyo Ri the next day, then over the Lhenjo La (our last pass on this trek) and the beginning of the long hike down. Four days will get us back down to Lukla for the flight to Kathmandu and the long flights "home".

---