Waning Wanderer

mach

The Wanderer is off again. Flight to Oslo 20th, a week (and xmas) under the northern lights in Tromso, a couple of days back in Oslo, then the turning of yet another year in Copenhagen.



Travel Blog Posts


Tromso

Published: December 23rd 2011Europe » Norway » Northern Norway » Tromsø
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mach
December 23rd 2011

XC Ski... read more



Lyngsford

Published: December 23rd 2011Europe » Norway » Northern Norway » Tromsø
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mach
December 22nd 2011

Dog sledding... read more



Off again

Published: December 19th 2011Europe » United Kingdom » England » Somerset » Clevedon
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mach
December 19th 2011

Been still from a travelling perspective for three weeks (since return from a stolen weekend in Paris) so it must be time to go again. Across to the south east in preparation for a flight from gatwick to Oslo tomorrow lunchtime, then on to Tromso the next day in the hope of catching not only some wonderful snowy adventures with dogs and snow mobiles and the like but also a glimpse or two of the northern lights. Stop off in Oslo again on the way back, then on to Copenhagen for a few days while 2012 arrives and then back to the UK for a few days of landing time before some time to plan the next adventure.... read more



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mach
October 21st 2011

Not feeling very recovered, we’re up early to reverse our trip back to Chirro Leba in the vain hope the notes of this trip might be correct that there might be an option to catch lift on a 4x4 back to Chennek and thus avoid ascending the long ridge we descended the day before yesterday. It’s a slow start out of camp for the weary legs and RL is struggling on the descents (though still, somehow, remains cheery enough). Both knees are suffering now and that lost strap might’ve been useful at this point. I recall some of my worst descents with bad tendons and am impressed by how little her obviously painful knees are denting her spirits. Once on the ascent to Chirro Leba, the going is a bit easier (if much hotter and made ... read more



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mach
October 20th 2011

Not much sleep achieved before the early morning call. A brief breakfast and we’re off into the darkness. But the three of us soon switch off our head torches as the moon is providing enough light to walk by. Three hours in the moonlight and the sun begins to shed its yellow beams onto to the high escarpment behind us. The hiking has been mostly on the road here which is always disappointing for a summit attempt. Nature has shown the folly of this road already though. Carved into the hillside, the road exposes fragile rock and earth and, at many points along its length, the road is impassable due to landslides. Impassable by vehicle that is, easily passable by foot. Icy puddles provide entertainment along the way until the sun reaches us an hour or ... read more



Chennek Camp > Ambiko

Published: October 30th 2011Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Simien Mountains
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mach
October 19th 2011

One of our American friends has woken with serious digestive issues so a hasty search around the camp for the right anti-biotics is under way by the time we rise. Various drugs are located (some might even help) but their trip is over – they will be heading back today. We march on back up to the next lump of escarpment and hike over its craggy ridge to reveal more fantastic views and the first sight of our route up Ras Dashen. It’s a thousand-metre drop in altitude down the river in the valley between us and the Ras Dashen range and then it’s another thousand-metre ascent to reach the summit. A long, grinding descent leads to the corrugated-iron clad village of Chirro Leba. A tourist-priced cold drink is in order at the wee “hotel” DJ ... read more



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mach
October 18th 2011

Rough night’s sleep leads to a creaky start but, all things considered, the aging body is feeling quite willing. Today we trek on to our first summit – the jutting promontory of Imet Gogo. Allegedly, the views from here surpass the ones from Ras Dashen’s summit. We happily meander along the rolling hills until we reach the beginning of the high rocky outcrops and the first of the truly stunning views of the park below. A countless series of peaks stretches as far as the eye can see. Reminiscent of grand canyon scenes but pock-marked with agriculture and really impressively green. I sit for a while with DJ and PC until RL and JW catch up. We drop our packs (PC stays behind with them) and head for the summit. A couple of short awkward scrambles ... read more



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mach
October 17th 2011

Rise to a welcome breakfast and hand on the second portion of omelette to some American friends (they work with RL and are here purely by coincidence) whose cook, after some misunderstanding, was left behind in Debark. DJ eventually manages to work out that their cook is on the way. We set off for a day’s hike – 6 hours or so at a steady pace. We rise onto the escarpment of the park and follow it to sit above the Geech Abyss with its impressive waterfall cascading a good five hundred feet or more into the bottomless abyss (there is a bottom of course, it just can’t be seen from our craggy vantage point). We scramble up an eroded hillside to meet the dirt road that is now used by all the local villagers and ... read more



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mach
October 16th 2011

Early start delivers us to the domestic terminal for what’s promised to be an early and short flight to Gondar. Soon becomes obvious the flight will be going via Axum and is leaving half an hour later than scheduled. The flight actually leaves an hour and a half late and then sits at the tiny airfield in Axum for nearly an hour, meaning we arrive about three hours late in Gondar. In the confusion of Gondar, we collect our cook (KB). The drive from Gondar to Debark is appalling. The Ethiopian government are borrowing money they have no way of repaying to pay Chinese construction firms to build a whole series of roads in this area but the one to Gondar is very much still “under construction”. This seems to involve much in the way of ... read more



Addis again

Published: October 30th 2011Africa » Ethiopia » Addis Ababa Region
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mach
October 15th 2011

Long flight to Addis Ababa but all goes to plan. The expected thumped landing delivers the familiar airport before me. Short queues for visa (they failed to give me the multi-entry visa I requested last time around), then through short but slow queue for immigration and out onto the buggy, dusty tarmac of Addis. The sun is shining warmly and the permanent pollution haze hangs heavy over the city as I wait for my lift to arrive. My very welcome lift arrives, along with my two mountain companions - RL & JW. JW I am meeting for the first time but it is truly wonderful to see RL again – she’s the reason I’m here, the reason I’m heading for the Simien. So, via the gamble of an Addis cashpoint visit and a visit to the ... read more






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