Nepal - Nov-2023 -6- Muktinath

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Nepal Tour - Nov-2023

Day-5: Muktinath

The most difficult destination of the tour: difficult and prestigious for the tour company (Kesari), difficult and tricky for the accompanying manager/guides and difficult and adventurous for the group members.



Muktinath is situated in Mustang valley about 25 Km (1 hr) from Jomsom (2743 m – 9000 ft). From Jomsom, large vehicles can go up to Ranipauwa village (~11,800 ft) from where the temple is about a kilometre of walk on kutcha road with gradient, followed by about 350 steps – total climbing of about 500 feet. Small vehicles can go up to the base of the steps. The temple is at an elevation of 3762 m (12,343 ft).

For comparison, Leh is 3524 m (11,560 ft) and Kedarnath is 3583 m (11,755 ft). So, Muktinath temple is like climbing 500 ft further from Kedarnath.

Unfortunately, unlike in case of Leh, where people are advised to spend at least a day to get acclimatized and same for Kedarnath if one goes by helicopter, the travel blogs are silent about Muktinath – where there is compulsory climbing and walking for nearly 2 hrs –at a higher altitude. Our guide constantly reminded us to walk slowly and stop frequently. Our Nepali guide suffered from symptoms of acute mountain sickness upon landing at Jomsom and could not accompany us to Muktinath. Jomsom to Jomsom total took us 7 hrs – staying and walking and climbing at a height of nearly 12,000 ft. Although none of us suffered from AMS, we did feel extra tiredness even while climbing down from temple to the base village where we were to have our lunch. It is not easy and definitely an adventure in itself.

Back to logistics of travelling: reaching Jomsom is a challenge in itself – for the travel company and for the accompanying managers. You reach Jomsom either by road from Pokhara or Kathmandu (Pokhara is nearer). From Pokhara, by road it is 175 Km (7 hrs) or by flight (18-20 min).

We were told at the time of booking the tour that Pokhara to Jomsom will be by flight (included in package) and if flight is cancelled, we will go by road. Implications of this are enormous which we can understand only when we travel.

Flights for Jomsom at this time of the year – almost end of the season (Kesari had only one more tour to Muktinath after ours ie 23^rd November) – was operated by only one airline – Sumeet. There are four round trips made with one twin-engine 15-seater aircraft. At 6-7-8 and 9-o’clock from Pokhara and at 6.30-7.30-8.30 and 9.30 from Jomsom. In the mountains in this area, weather deteriorates after 10 in the morning and turbulence becomes too much to handle by small aircraft. If weather is not good, flights may be cancelled at the last minute.

Wake-up call at 4.30. Tea at 5.15. Check-out and board the bus at 5.30. First flight at 6.00. Packed breakfast from Pokhara hotel. Something in-edible (fried item), fruits and tetra-pack of fruit juice.

Leave bigger bags at the Pokhara hotel. Only 15 hand-baggage sized luggage can be fitted in the nose-cone of the small aircraft, that too with difficulty.

Try to understand the implications:


• Pokhara to Jomsom is best travelled by air.
• Flights operate only between 6 am-10 am, that too weather permitting.
• If flight is cancelled, you have to travel by road that takes 7 hours.
• Small aircraft can take only 15 passengers.
• We were a group of 22 + 2 guides.
• Thus, all of us cannot go by the same flight. All of us cannot return by the same flight.
• One or two or three flights may operate and then remaining flights may get cancelled at the last minute due to bad weather.
• If a flight is cancelled, a situation would arise where 2/3^rd of the group has reached the destination and 1/3^rdstranded behind.
• Either all or only the remaining members of the group will have to travel by road for 7 hours.
• If first flight is sure to operate, who will volunteer to go by the 2^nd or 3^rd or 4^thflight? I will not. You will not. Then? Who decides?
• Arrange for a vehicle for Pokhara-Jomsom or Jomsom-Pokhara at the last minute. A nightmare of a situation for the tour managers.
• All of us have to go to airport together. Who goes on the first flight is kept TOP SECRET! Else fight may breakout before take-off!


We were on the first flight. AAH!! First hurdle cleared. Pilot-bhai came late. Flight took off at 6.30 instead of 6.00 and we landed at Jomsom at 7.00. Jomsom hotel was a walking distance from the airport. Had our breakfast there. Rooms would be available only after we return from Muktinath because check-in time is 12 noon.

Remaining members arrived by the second flight an hour later. And together we started by bus for Muktinath at 8.30.

Day time temperature in Jomsom at this time of the year (Nov-end) remains around 4-5 °C. Muktinath is even colder, being 3300 ft higher. At some places, ice formation could be seen alongside the road.

From the parking lot (Ranipauwa village), there are two options. Either you walk 1- 1½ Km up to the steps and climb the 350 steps. Or you take horse-ride (INR 400 pp one way) or doli (INR 4400 pp) – from parking itself. Horses will take you to a spot from where only 50 steps remain. We took one-way horses for going up. Even the last 50 steps were not easy as there was no time to acclimatize and oxygen level drop to 60% of normal.

Although reaching Muktinath was difficult, once reaching there you realise that the trouble is worth it.

The temple is devoted to Lord Vishnu. Due to some curse, he was turned to a stone, and became free (Mukt) when he was installed in the form of “Shaligram” at this place. The temple is on the banks of river Gandaki (or Kali-Gandaki). Shaligram – the black stone representing Lord Vishnu is found in the river Gandaki. Genuineness of the stones sold in Muktinath (or for that matter anywhere) is very doubtful.

There are 108 streams of water around the temple, which then flows in to two ‘kunds’ (ponds) – paap and punya. People first take bath in the 108 streams (water temperature would be zero degree) followed by dips in the two kunds. Requires extreme courage. As many as 9 from our group took bath. We didn’t. Even walking barefoot in the temple is not advisable. We had carried extra socks for this purpose.

Near by the temple is a statue of Lord Buddha. Then there is a temple of Jwalaji (similar to Jwalaji in Himachal Pradesh). This is in fact in the form of a flame which burns non-stop due to gas leaking from the mountain.

All throughout, the weather held very good. Although it was cold, it did not rain or the wind did not pick up. In mountains, anything is possible.

After spending nearly two hours at the top, and enjoying beautiful scenery, we climbed down to the base village for lunch at 1.30. Food was supposed to be basic local food. We could manage to eat only dal-rice.

Back to hotel at 3.00. Dinner was to be had at 8 pm. Spent the time (3 to 8) under two layers of blanket. Again, only dal-rice were edible.

Hot water was not available at the hotel except for drinking. There was no question of taking bath (although soap and towels were provided!). We always carry milk-powder with sugar and Bournvita. To be added to hot water – which is available almost everywhere. This helps us to survive on dal-rice.

Night time temperature was (-)4°C.

Next day, first flight was scheduled at 6.30. First group had to wake-up (no call) at 5.00, have breakfast at 5.45 and reach airport at 6.00. We were not on the first flight this time! We were on the THIRD flight at 8.30. This was declared at the time of dinner. This time we didn’t mind because we were getting two hours extra to be protected by layers of blankets while the first group were getting up early for 3^rd consecutive day.

First flight took off at 6.45.

Our flight (3^rd of the day) took off at 9.00 and we reached Pokhara at 9.30. Experienced significant turbulence on the way and understood the problems of our managers first hand – we had just escaped cancellation.

Suppose the third flight was cancelled…..

In that case we would have travelled back by road and reached Pokhara around 4 pm instead of 9.30 am when 15 members had already reached Pokhara at 7.30.

That is the reason why morning of the 6^th day was kept free and even in the afternoon, sightseeing was kept at minimum.

To add to the complications, check-in time at Pokhara hotels is 2 pm. We were warned about this.

Our first group reached at 7.30 and we reached at 10.00. Fortunately, the rooms were vacant and we were allotted rooms immediately on arrival. Since we did not have any mis-haps, we had free time in the morning. Enjoyed the sun, sitting in the lawns of the hotel.

Not only the whole group was lucky, but Atish (Indian guide) and Rupesh (Nepali guide) were also very lucky – they did not have to face any odd situations. They said that it was for the first time that as many as 9 members of the group took bath at Muktinath.

Next: Day-7: Travel to Kathmandu with Manakamana on-way.

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