Just when I thought my immune system was invincible...


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Asia » Nepal » Kathmandu
October 15th 2007
Published: October 18th 2007
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So I seem to be quickly progressing through every type of sickness known to man. The treatment for one ailment is the cause for the next, but I am surviving at the moment. Good thing these issues are all easily identifiable thus far- I can just flip to the appropriate page in my Merck manual for the medicine required to treat it, waltz down to the pharmacy and grab precicely what I need. No unnecessary doctor visits, pen, or paper required. Antibiotics, oral meds, and many other concentrated topical creams and ointments available only by prescription back home are all at your fingertips. I like it. Though it sounds potentially dangerous, it makes life so much easier as a traveller. And besides, I work alongside a Scottish Family Practitioner, who I can run things by just in case. But I must admit, I love playing doctor and eliminating the middle man. Yes I know what is wrong with me. I have had it before. No need to waste anybody's tie here. I'm not even sure there is a proper pharmacy that requires prescriptions for heavy duty stuff, as I have certainly not seen one. Then again, the whole governmental situation here is a bit unstable, so I really shouldn' t be surprised.

The home I live in is absolutely beautiful by Nepalese standards! There's a great view of the city when the smog's not too bad from my south facing window, and views of the foothills from my north and east facing windows (yes, I do have windows on three of my walls, makes everything very bright in sunny until noon!). I also have my own little balcony! The bedroom itself is colored with the popular lime/mint green. But the kitchen is nothing like I'd ever expected on this side of the world- marble looking countertops, a proper kitchen table, sink, old school refrigerator and gas stove- crazy! And perhaps the best part of all this is the Western toilet and indoor shower (with hot water!). No more bathing outside (well at least not on any kind of regular basis here). The home has a total of 4 stories consisting of a central stairwell with bedrooms, a living room, and bathrooms connected from the stairwell (but no room is connected to one another).

When I first arrived, Amma (mother) was sleeping in the hall right outside my bedroom, making it terribly difficult to exit my room in the middle of the night to use the bathroom without waking her (my door is ridiculously loud).

The daal bhaat for dinner the first night was absolutely the best I had ever had, phenomenal. I even had seconds which is unheard of for me! It was so tasty- miTho chaar! However, I did end up waking up at 2am that night wide awake and ready to roll since they had me return to my room directly after eating at 715 pm. 10 hours of sleep- hell yea!

The children in the orphanage are all so sweet and loving. They're very excited for attention, so upon meeting us, were in constant competition for Steve and my attention. They thrive on physical contact, so love sitting in your lap, being tickled, squeezed, or picked up and whirled around. High fives, low fives (any kind of fives really), hand games and dancing. They are very easily entertained (they have to be, really), and love running races, wrestling, and soccer. All you pretty much have to do is loudly count to three and you instantly have 51 new best friends.

The kids here are absolutely fascinated with 'the sea', perhaps because they've never seen it. Steve brought them a photography book fo Scotland and every page that turned they'd shout out "THE SEA?! THE SEA?!" Yes, that is the sea, no that one is a river, no that one's a pond, yeah that's probably the sea, no that looks like a canal... To them body of water = sea. I probably should have just said yeah and moved on.

I am having second thoughts about this whole laundry service deal. Though my clothes smell fresher than ever, I've noticed mysterious stains on my clothing that did not exist before. And previous stains were not removed. Where are my favorite sleeping pants?! GONE. I miss them terribly.

The first health checks were at a school out by Bistachaap. The kids were so sweet, and I noted key observations. As I learn more, hopefully I'll be able to conduct checks on my own. The egg sandwiches at the chiya pasal in Bistachaap are absolutely magic. I believe they're 15 rupees including two eggs and three pieces of bread- yes everyone, that is 25 cents for a taste of heaven. However I may be biased. Everything that is not daal bhaat tastes like heaven.

I just cannot eat daal bhaat for breakfast. Rice, mooshed lentil soup, and curried vegetables that are spicy as Hell are not exactly my top cravings in the A.M. So far, I've been able to squeak having just one breakfast- and that one was pretty close to coming right back up. So I sustain myself during the day with cookies and chocolate- a MUCH better alternative.

I LOVE RAMEN NOODLES! All of the little shops here have them for as cheap as at hom (which is probably a bit expensive for out this way). I just ate my first pack as I again passed on the standard nourishment for the morning. And it took about 15 minutes to communicate to hajuramma that I wanted to make them. Hey, at least she has a good sense of humor.

Hajuramma sometimes yells at me when I don't understand a word she's saying, as if speaking louder will aid in my comprehension of the words. Guess that's the same for all cultures really, because I know back home we do the exact same thing. But it is funny being on the other side of things. So no everyone, speaking louder to the Mexicans will not make them understand what you are saying.

The bumpy jeep rides are analogous to SW Utah off-roading. Never loses its novelty. Though I'm sure I'll feel differently if I ever find myself desperately needing to use the toilet while in there.

It's a one hour walk from Thamel to my place. There's so much dust, exhaust, and smog, it's a surprise I've been able to get a bit of oxygen and not have any kind of asthma issues as of yet (knock on wood). And you literally have to fight with all types of traffic and various farm animals, vegetable stands to get by. We walked back for the first time the day of the first health checks. Only because I'd looked at a map earlier in the trip did I have any clue where we were going. A few lucky guesses and we made it back- amazing really.

Sometimes the air is so bad you cannot even see the surrounding mountains (they are really not that far). I'll probably end up having to take a mountain flight out to Everest in order to see the thing. It's doubtful that this country has any kind of emissions monitoring, as so many cars and busses shoot out huge puffs of black smoke, making it impossible to see or breathe. I may have to join the Face Mask in Public Club if I'm going to continue walking or sitting in traffic for long periods of time (which I undoubtedly will).

The dogs here are so dirty and they are absolutely everywhere. Some of them even follow you for a bit- please just don't touch me, who knows what diseases you are carrying around. And they bark at all hours of the night, WHAT is your problem?! Sometimes I wish I could just put them out of their misery.

There's this guy who visits the orphanage regularly who we thought was a relative of the children. Most of the children actually have at least one living parent and other relatives. Since there is a big festival going on right now called Dashain that is two weeks long, many relatives are coming in and out of the orphanage to take their children home for the holiday. So we really didn't think twice about this guy. Sure, he's overly friendly and seranades us multiple times a day, but we just thought hey, maybe Nepali people just enjoy singing to others. Back at my home, I was sitting on the front step when he sauntered up. He spoke a few words to me and then something hit me sharply in my back (aka small potato). I turn around and hajuramma points upstairs and makes the universal sleeping hand motion. Amazing how easily I was able to understand her. Okay okay I get it, tell this guy who have to go take a nap so he will leave our property. Point is he's not a relative of any of the children, but just some creep who wanders onto others' property in an attempt to bag a wife. Yes, he's asked me to visit his house. Right. Language barrier. I do not understand. Smile, nod, walk away.

I really need to find a way to make this bed more comfortable. My back (and sanity) depend on it. An air mattress would be heaven. Oooh, I shall add that to the list of things I need sent from home. But really, an air mattress with some sort of pump (heck screw the pump, I can do it the old fashioned way) would be fantastic. If mom and dad sent that out here, I would think of them every morning when I wake up sans back pain (as if I don't think of them every morning already). =)



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