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Published: September 24th 2008
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Riots over Hindu Culture
You would think one gets some understanding of the culture of a country after spending four months in it. Of course, to a certain extent we did. Yet Nepal remains surprising.
Although the war between the military and the Maoists is finished, it ain’t over yet… Strange things keep happening in this country. The Maoists are now in power and the Young Maoists are bored. These young boys used to be recruited from poor families in villages to form the Maoist army. They are out of job now so they keep themselves busy by stirring things up in Kathmandu. They managed to lock a government official for one and a half hour in a toilet two months ago.
Last week was Indra Jatra, a big festival for the Newari ethnics who come from the Kathmandu valley. This is because the Kumari, the only living Godess in the world, comes out of her temple/palace to be carried around town and give blessings to the people. A cultural and religious festival, cherished by the Nepali people.
Unfortunately, on the last day of the festival, the new government cut the Hindu festival budget. No more money
Tourist office leftovers
Free entrance for everyone! for the Kumari and no more money for the offering of 108 buffalo’s to the Godess Kali during Dhasain festival. People were not happy, especially Newari’s. That day, the 12 years old Kumari was taken out of her residence and carried by chariot to the next street. There, the people pulling the chariot started a Nepali Banda. We would call it a strike. The Kumari was held for 9 to 11 hours on top of her Chariot in a small smelling street. Eventually, they carried her back to her residence but things turned nasty very fast. Police arrived as well as young demonstrators. People started to enthusiastically pick up stones from the ground and the tension exploded.
Just at that moment, we arrived on Durbar Square from Thamel, the local tourist ghetto. We couldn’t believe our eyes. All tourist offices, where Nepali Brahmins collect bakshish which disappears mysteriously in one pocket or another, were burned to the ground. Well, taken apart and thrown on big burning tires on the square and in the streets. Stones were flying and police was charging. What has happened to the hippy Walhalla of the sixties and seventies?
People have gotten greedy. Foreign
Everything under control!
Military showing off their presence in Ratna Park aid has spoiled local culture and made people physically and mentally depended on it. Begging is now second nature and a comfortable income for many. There are the truly poor, the Indians, the old people coming down from the villages to sustain themselves; there are Sadhus getting dressed in the morning and painting their face to make 300 to 500 rupees a day posing for pictures. Nepali girls get sold to Bombay and Calcutta; even whole villages live on one kidney each because they sold the other one to India.
People are getting angry again and they have a habit of corruption and suppression. This war is not over yet. Two days of regular fighting in the street. The supporters and accident tourists were drinking in the local restaurants around the action; the young boys were throwing stones to attract the attention from the police. Women and young children walked in the middle. The atmosphere was changing from moment to moment. People were either silently watching or actively participating. Lots were smiling and proud to rebel against the government. About everyone agreed that we tourists should support the Newari people. Their culture brings them tourists and tourists bring them
Police guarding what's left
Only the roof and four corner poles remained after day one. money.
What we saw in those two days reinforced our impression that Nepal might be on the brink of a civil war. India is pressuring from the south, ready to take over. China is pushing from the north raising national guilt because of all the Tibetan protests. The Nepalis need to get their act together but that is not likely to happen soon. There are too many problems to face and too little skilled leaders to address them. All one can do is hope for the best… which seems to be quite improbable to achieve… They optimistically keep calling it "New Nepal" themselves... what else is new?
As far as we are concerned, we moved to the far east. Yesterday we arrived in Seoul, Korea. Another Asian megalopolis to explore… First impression? Quiet, friendly people, reserved and traditional culture, Americanized city, high tech big buildings and renewed appreciation for the brand Samsung.
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Roland
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Wow, heavy sis! Riotting on the street is something that happens only in Gouda here in the Netherlands.. :) Sounds a little like you two have gotten fed up (frustrated?) with the Nepalees laziness. I find it quite intriguing, is it true that they expect ´wellfare´ from you as a tourist and from us as a western-country? I´d also like to know a lot more about your wellbeing, where are you staying? What are you doing besides siteseeing? Tell us the personal stuff :-) Seoul is the origin of the generation-mortgage (your grandchildren are still paying for your house...). Is it true that prices are extreme? And how do people cope with the N-korea situation? I´m glad that you´ve found your way to our weblog about Jasmijn. Lots of things to tell, lots of pictures to see. Everything is going very well as you have probably read. Lots of love from the 3 of us..