no more potatoes!

---

I don’t want to eat potatoes for a very long time after I return to the U.S. I have them for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. I have them boiled, fried, and curried. On special occasions I have homemade French fries, but even those are getting old. Rice and potatoes are very cheap, so they are staples in the Nepali diet. Maybe I can teach them how to make mashed potatoes, just to mix it up a bit. But I’m starting to lose it with potatoes!

Other than that, things are fine. Bom, Dinesh’s other nephew, arrived last night. He was one of the porters when Eddie, Dan, and I went trekking in March 2006. This is the nephew that was forced into an arranged marriage with a woman named Dasmaya, whom I met during my last trip. He hates being married to her. In fact, he completely ignored her the last time I was here, and even though it was clear she adored him, she stayed out of his way. Now they have a daughter, so in catching up on events of the past year and a half, I asked about her. He doesn’t even know his own daughters name.

Marriage and reproduction is part of one’s dharma, or social obligation. Bom is clearly unhappy with this part.

Anyway…

People always ask me what draws me to a place like Nepal. This week my response would be the people. Nepalis are so welcoming and service-oriented. Sure, I get a lot of special treatment (and cupped hands forced in front of me) because my pale skin translates into money. But Nepalis really go out of their way to help others, particularly friends and family. They always seem so happy to see you, are concerned with how you are feeling and whether you are happy. They also do everything in their power not to offend you, and if they feel that they have, become very embarrassed.

A couple of examples of the general personality of Nepali people—everyone in the neighborhood knows that I spent a week in Italy, and they are all anxious to know whether I had a nice time, if my journey was safe, and if I am glad to be back in Nepal. They want to see pictures and hear stories, even if they don’t understand half of what I am saying. They also all talk about how lucky I am to have gone to Europe, and they are so right. It’s hard to take a trip like that for granted when surrounded by people who only ever dream of even leaving their own country.

Another example…I was at the café in the Radisson again yesterday, drinking tea and writing a paper. There was a comment card with my bill, so I took a moment to circle all of the smiley faces and write something about liking to go there to work. The staff is always so attentive and friendly, so I meant it. Today I received a call on behalf of the manager of the Radisson, thanking me for my comments. The woman wanted to know if I really meant that I like going there to work. “Yes!” I said. “I go there often with my laptop and get a lot of work done. It is very peaceful.” So the next time I go I am supposed to ask for Mr. Sherpa, the manager, so that he can meet me. Where else do you get a response like that??

Tonight, Buwaa (my father) stopped by to say hello and chat. He also wanted to know all about Italy. He then all of a sudden asked me what my philosophy on life is. (Now I know where Renuka gets her deep, philosophical questions.) I made up something about being content with what one has and helping others. But I think it was just a way for him to tell me his own philosophy. He went on to tell me that in his opinion, daughters should be like Indira Ghandi and sons like Jesus Christ—devoted to their fathers (more generally, their parents). He also talked about astrology again, saying it is the greatest subject in the world and that it allows you to understand every man and woman. I then showed him photos of my parents, and he was happy to hear that I told them about him. “I guess your parents and I will never meet, however,” he said, disappointed.

Tomorrow will be busy—the police training for most of the day, then Deepti is going to help me pick out a saree. I was invited to a wedding reception for the brother of one of Dinesh’s friends, so I’ve got to look good. Renuka can’t wait to see me all dressed up Nepali style.

---