taxi rides in KTM

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I think taxi rides in Kathmandu deserves an entry of its own. When I first arrived in Nepal during my first visit, hopping in a taxi was one of the scariest things I had ever done in my life. It still makes me nervous even now.

First, the taxi: they are these little white or red Isuzu Marutis. There are no air bags, no seatbelts, and they all look beat to hell, inside and out. Many of the drivers line their dashboards with statues or pictures of gods, and sometimes stickers of marijuana leaves or faces of Bollywood stars.

You first stick your head in the front window and ask the driver if he will take you where you are going. If he agrees (it’s far enough for him to make a good amount), you hop in the back seat. “Meterma” means “Please use the meter.” But that’s no guarantee that you’ll get a fair rate. Some of the drivers set their meters so that they run faster. For instance, this morning I went to the Fulbright office in one taxi and it cost me 120 Rs. Coming back, with the same amount of traffic, it cost 72 Rs. The first driver’s meter was obviously running a bit faster. If you take a taxi after dark (assuming you can even find one) you can guarantee a rate that is close to double what you would pay during the day.

Second, road rules: There are none. Although there is occasionally a traffic guard standing in an intersection, he does little to actually control the flow of traffic. Sometimes I feel like they just stand there blowing their whistles and decide whenever they want which line of traffic can go where. I can think of two intersections that have traffic lights, and one that now has a pedestrian walk signal. Other than that, it’s a complete free for all. Everyone uses their horns to warn everyone else that they are coming through, so honking occurs incessantly. In fact, some taxi drivers will keep one hand on the wheel and one on the horn. Speed limits are non-existent, and it seems as if the goal is to go as fast as you can, even if it means passing everyone by using the wrong side of the road.

Third, right of way: This seems to be determined by size, so buses go whenever they want, and if you’re lucky you can avoid them. Next are cars and taxis, followed by motor bikes, bicycles, and then pedestrians. Everyone always asks me if I get nervous about the political violence here or earthquakes or bacteria in the water. Yes, but my biggest fear is getting into a traffic accident. If you’re injured, it could take up to an hour to get to a hospital. And if a bus hits a small vehicle or anyone hits a cow, people get very upset and tend to throw stones. So either way, if you’re in or near a serious accident, you’re fucked.

Let me also mention the poor condition of the roads. If you’re lucky to be on a paved road, chances are it is covered in pot holes or there’s a pile of trash, bricks, or a stray dog taking a nap in the middle of it. Every time I am in a taxi I think of those rally car races they hold in Africa. A lot of times I get flopped around or hit my head on the roof.

You can also take public transportation—micros (mini buses), tuk-tuks, or a big bus. I avoid the big buses because they constantly tip over and are overcrowded, leading to pick pocketing. The micros are okay, if you can get a seat without being squished between 2 people who are clearing the phlegm from their throats or have a terrible cough. But some of the drivers are a little nuts—yesterday we took one home from running errands and the driver tried to run over a dog lying on the side of the road. And then he stopped for air in the tires—while there were 20 or so people inside the vehicle! Tuk-tuks are these metal 3-wheeled vehicles that literally “tuk-tuk” along at a slow pace. And besides, they are meant for shorter Nepali people, so I have to scrunch down the entire time to avoid hitting my head repeatedly.

The craziness of Kathmandu streets makes coming home to my little flat feel like heaven, especially when Renuka brings me a cup of tea while I write.

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Comments

[Dylan]

Sounds like DJ
Traffic in KTM sounds alot like traffic in Djibouti City. The cabs are all banged up. All of them are "modified" by the driver. They find cool shiny things and put them on to dress up their cars. I even saw one once that had a disco ball on the hood. Seriously. As for the traffic, I always compared it to a NASCAR race, with half the cars driving in the opposite direction. And yes, heaven forbid you hit an animal. You can get thrown in jail and pay a hefty fine. As for the right of way, it sucks that DJ doesn't have any real sidewalks, because pedestrians are the bottom of the food chain when it comes to the road.