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March 14 - March 17
Up early and at the airport- bit chilly, no fog- a good thing for flights. It is a total bun fight at the airport, people and bags everywhere but it all gets sorted out and we are through to the waiting area. It is really nice to see so many familiar faces- the French from Angle are there, the German doctor and dentist are there, the Germans from Namche.... even the Korean guy on the horse from yesterday morning (horse is nowhere to be seen), it's pretty sociable. First plane comes in at 0710 then 3 more planes in quick succession, they all fly off again bar 1. Apparently it is foggy in Kathmandu so we're all running a bit late. I find it pretty exciting watching these little planes coming in and out, I guess if you get stranded for days on end the excitement might wear thin, but for now I am enjoying the show. At 0815 I am wishing I had worn more clothes, I wonder briefly if they'd let me go get another layer out of my bag that I can see waiting on the tarmac. Problem solved when they announce
that we are ready to go. We take off at 0830 having taken some last photos on the runway. Awesome take off, amazing scenery, I feel quite wistful looking out the window and down at the way we have trekked and those magnificent mountains we have seen over the past 19 days. As I keep thinking to myself- I am so glad we still have the Mustang and Langtang treks still ahead of us.
Arrive into smoggy KTM after a very smooth flight. The plan is that we are going to stay at Dhana's house for the night in order to get our Upper Mustang permits sorted and the next day will go to Gamcha Organic Farm for 2 nights. We meet most of Dhana's family and have some lunch and just relax away the rest of the day. They have a roof top garden that overlooks the neighbourhood that I spend a few hours on. D and his travel agent buddy go and do the permit stuff. There is a constant background noise- school kids, birds, traffic, dogs, car horns, planes, conversations from the neighbours- it is really pleasant. After a late dinner we are told that we
are sleeping in the kids beds- no matter how much we insist in bedding down in the lounge room they aren't swayed. We sleep in separate rooms for the first time in 3 weeks- it's a bit weird.
Next morning we get a taxi out to Gamcha Farm in Bhaktapur. The drive is interesting, through the city then things thin out a bit. Pass lots of brick works, lots of chicken houses, lots of fields. Gamcha is a Danish owned working farm with 3 rooms in a renovated 90 year old Rana house. We are the only ones there so have the whole place to ourselves. It is beautiful out there- it's warm, it's clean and the water is hot. We have a tour of the property and spend the next couple of days eating lots of fresh salads, fruit and generally wholesome food. Spend a lot of time in the bathroom trying to descale ie- get rid of dead dry skin that is falling off me- gross I know. The two women who cook and bring us the meals are friendly. The assistant manager is overly attentive but harmless. There's a gardener, the gardeners extended family, and cows
and goats wandering around the garden throughout the day. Lots of birdlife, including 3 owls- a barn one and 2 little screechy ones! Very comfortable place- the bed and the soft white sheets are heavenly. I sleep like a log both nights, falling asleep to the sounds of the owls-
who knew that they made so much noise??? Who...hoo- get it? The electricity is patchy, the wifi is even patchier but who cares? I'd recommend it. It would be particularly good if you were a big family or if you were a group of friends as you could rent all 3 rooms.
http://www.soebogaardnepal.org//3_Gamcha%!O(MISSING)rganic%!f(MISSING)arm/gamchafarm.html One other quirky thing to mention is that at Gamcha a little green plastic bucket appeared in our rooms at night- they called it a
Goodnight Bucket, apparently you use them to pee in!!!!! The bathroom/toilet is about 50m from the house and with the steep stairs to get down in the night AND the power cuts (no light) they suggest you might like to use the bucket!! Did I use it? Not saying...
On Sunday 17th we say good bye to the green countryside of the valley and head out to meet Dhana
to fly to Pokhara. Very, very excited to start trekking again. When we meet Dhana he tells us that there has been a late change in plans- we can fly to Pokhara but apparently the flights from Pokhara to Jomsom have been cancelled for the last several days. Dhana thinks we shouldn't risk flying, we should drive. Hmmm OK- we figure we will still get to Jomsom in time to walk to Kagbeni later that afternoon. Anyway, what can we do? We get on the plane for Pokhara, it is a quick, smooth flight. We take a taxi to the HotelCandle Inn that Dhana has organised. The sign outside the hotel promises much but delivers little. It is in need of an overhaul but it's only for the night. We have the rest of the afternoon to ourselves. Given that we have to organise a night in Pokhara post trek Mary and I go check a few out with the intention of making a booking. We have a look at Sacred Valley, it's very well rated on TA, looks like a winner but they can't show us a room. Onwards, a bit further up
Baggage
I got to go put my swiss army knife in my bag on the tarmac- only in Nepalthe road we end up at Trekkers Hotel- awesome lake view, very big room, bath and shower, lots of light, enthusiastic manager, good price. The deal is done. Mission accomplished we go have a coffee and cake at Mekhs- we really liked it last year- it doesn't disappoint this year. Have a wander around the streets as the wind picks up, the sky turns black and the rain starts- looooove this weather! I seriously do- wind, rain, stormy sky- my favourite.
Dhana meets us for dinner at a Canadian owned place called
Moondance where we share a couple of pizzas. Wander back to the Candle and call it a night. The Candle doesn't look much better in the dark. Sleep in my clothes, on a sarong and in my sleeping bag- the beds look pretty dodgy. Can't wait for tomorrow.
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