Blogs from Mongolia, Asia - page 13

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Asia » Mongolia » Yolyn An June 13th 2013

Mongolian spirituality (in the countryside at least) is strongly connected to the idea of living in harmony with nature and protecting the environment - anything that might harm an animal or corrupt a water supply, for example, is taboo. On the other hand, Mongolia is still a developing country with significant poverty but valuable natural resources which foreign countries are naturally keen to invest in, and as we drive around the country there is regularly evidence of new mining and quarrying (and quite a lot of litter everywhere). Our guide told me that Mongolians believe that when mining development disturbs the environment, nature becomes angry and the result will be drought, floods or other natural disasters. Of course these tensions between development and environmentalism exist in all countries, but in Mongolia they are starkly observable. Today ... read more
Yolyn An National Park
Ice lake
The precarious ice lake

Asia » Mongolia June 13th 2013

We stayed the night with a family who keep camels, tethered maybe 40 feet from the gers, the first time I have had the opportunity to observe camels close up. According to our guide, camels are considered to be very sensitive animals (when we pass them on the road they will often all look up to see what is going on). They show emotion (including crying), and if a female camel rejects her calf, the herders will play her traditional music, which apparently will often result in the female re-engaging with her offspring (the guide recommended a film, "The Weeping Camel", which illustrates this). At this time of year the camels shed their winter fur, and as the wool is valuable, they are usually shorn by the herders and at present they look a bit unappealing, ... read more
Camel at the homestay
Camels at the homestay

Asia » Mongolia » Gobi Desert June 13th 2013

Travelling in Mongolia is not easy. Many hours a day in a van, driving on difficult roads, only a short amount of time our in the open air, and not always a good night's sleep in a tent or ger. I am mostly philosophical about all of this and generally enjoying the adventure, but today was marked by a spectacular falling out between one of our party (the Italian) and our tour guide. The actual row was over (what seems to me) a petty matter and has been brewing over the past couple of days; I think the real reason is the stress of this kind of travel. It was strange and ridiculous, to be watching this heated argument in the middle of nowhere, where neither party has anywhere else to go or hope of escape ... read more

Asia » Mongolia June 13th 2013

Tour started with the usual faff that these things start with - waiting for ages, then suddenly rushed introductions, hurriedly loading the van, and setting off without having a moment to consider. The weather (severe snow and cold in winter, hot summers) and the lack of historical investment means that roads in Mongolia are generally not in a state conducive to long drives. Outside of the capital there is just one tarmac-ed road, which we will not travel on until the end of the tour. All other roads are dirt tracks, regularly punctuated with ditches and holes. I always have to be semi-alert for the frequent occasions when the van lurches violently to one side or suddenly pitches us forwards, so I am unable to sleep when we are on the road, even though we travel ... read more
Our van en route
Stuffpile on the seat in front

Asia » Mongolia » Ulaanbaatar May 31st 2013

I had hoped to treat myself to a final blow-out meal to celebrate my last day in Russia, but sadly but the time I got back from Taltsy I felt pretty unwell and just went straight to bed. I also had to be up at 4am to catch my train. Getting up was painful but I had moved specially to a hostel near the train station so my walk was only 15 minutes, and fortunately finding the train and my berth was very straightforward. I still didn't feel well, so it was not a very fun journey unfortunately - I mostly just read in my bed. I was sharing my cabin with a man who could not understand a word of what I said in Russian no matter how clearly I tried to speak. Obviously I ... read more

Asia » Mongolia » Ulaanbaatar May 31st 2013

Tomorrow I will embark on a 12-day tour of the Gobi desert, with two people I hardly know at all, an Italian guy and a German guy. Today I spent a day enjoying being able to eat for the first time in a few days, sorting out what I did and didn't need to take (I am leaving my two dresses and one pair of heels at the hostel) and thinking about not having internet or phone access for the next 12 days. This led me to consider how internet-dependent I am, and that maybe it is not such a bad thing to have enforced separation from outside communication. I also went for a walk down Peace Avenue, the main street in central Ulaanbaatar, which is pleasant enough, not beautiful but interesting enough buildings and shops, ... read more
Chinggis Khaan's guard

Asia » Mongolia » Ulaanbaatar May 31st 2013

Thankfully feeling much better today, though still a bit weakened, so another quiet day. In fact I spent most of the afternoon joining a tour to the Gobi desert, which was much more complicated than I had anticipated. Most travellers in Mongolia join tours to see the country, as the infrastructure is limited - there are public buses, but the system is complicated unless you are a native (for example, there is usually one bus a day or every other day to most places, but the departure times are unreliable - buses leave somewhere within a 2-hour timeframe - and the don't leave from a particular point, you flag them down by the side of the road, but they don't have numbers or anything that tells you their destination, so you just have to "know" which ... read more

Asia » Mongolia » Ulaanbaatar May 31st 2013

Woke up feeling no better than yesterday so sadly another day spent mostly in bed. I did go for a ten minute walk around a small local square and saw the circus building, a giant buddha, and some very cute children - the oldest couldn't have been more than 5 years old - performing some traditional Mongolian songs and dances on a small stage surrounded by adoring parents, for what reason I don't know. Also went back to the State Department Store for more supplies. This is the main "Westernised" store in Ulaanbaatar, a huge old Soviet-style building on 7 floors, and it sells almost everything you could think of. There is a supermarket and banks on the ground floor, then the other floors are like a cross between Debenhams and Argos. There is even a ... read more

Asia » Mongolia » Ulaanbaatar May 31st 2013

After nearly 8 weeks in Russia, it was exciting to arrive in not just another country, but another continent! Ulaanbaatar is very geared to tourists and whichever guest house you have booked with will meet you at the station or airport, so I was speedily picked up and driven to the hostel, which was a relief as the train arrived at 6am and the area around the station is, to be honest, pretty horrible. Ulaanbaatar is the only city in Mongolia, half the population lives here, and the economy is the fastest-growing in the world relative to the size of the country (or so I was told). The result of this is that Ulaanbaatar is currently a building site, especially on the outskirts, as development accelerates. It is interesting but not pretty to look at and ... read more

Asia » Mongolia » Ulaanbaatar May 23rd 2013

Who stole the dinosaur? And THIS IS NOT A JOKE. We arrived in Ulaan Bataar (UB) just a day AFTER the smuggled dinosaur fossils were returned to Mongolia. May 18 was thus declared the new National Dinosaur Day. Yey! But wait, where would they put all these dinosaurs? The Mongolian Museum of Natural History The Museum is said to be the oldest Museum in Mongolia, and it shows. The paint has peeled off many parts of the white building that now looks like an abandoned structure from the Soviet period. As soon as we entered, we set out to look for the resident dinosaur fossils and eggs. T-Rex was "fully assembled" in a hall with poor lighting. It won't be lonely for long. And it would soon have a new home. The Mongolian government announced it ... read more
Museum Needs TLC
First Dinosaur Eggs Off Gobi
A Dino's Tubular Bone




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