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Published: January 9th 2009
Luang Prabang
From the window seat of Laos Airlines.I write this final journal entry from a busy internet cafe on the Khao San Road, oh yes, back in the steamy noodle metropolis of Bangkok one last time. I spent the day on the pool deck of that same hotel I snuck into three months ago on my first days here... I can hardly believe how quickly time has passed.
In 12 hours, I'll be on a 747 Jumbo Jet bound for home... but not before stopping in Taipei, Anchorage and New York. At noon on Wednesday, if all goes according to plan, I'll touch down in Halifax after three months of South East Asian Adventures.
I set out on this journey to find something. I'm not sure what it was, but I THINK I've found it. I feel satisfied, fulfilled and ready to come home. I am starting to see Asian versions of people I know... Raymond? EEEK! Scary... :0)
I spent my last week off the north eastern coast of peninsular Malaysia on the Perhentian Islands. Picture it: white sands, crystal clear turquoise waters and technicolor fish. I lived in a little wooden hut by myself (well, with one unidentified rodent) and a bed and
Famous temple in Luang Prabang
There are more than 30 'wats' in this town. Very peaceful. a mosquito net. Shared a bathroom and a shower. (Kinda felt a little like summer camp, to be honest... great fun!) A myriad of little cafes lined the beach. I didn't move for 6 days.... except of course to snorkel and find fruit shakes. I basically sat there and waited for the coconuts to drop.
My Swedish friends, Karin and Katarina met me there part way through the week, which was super fantastic. I met a few other interesting folks as well, but I mostly used the time to reflect on my three month solo journey.
***Here it comes...for those of you who bore easily, you have permission to stop reading now. I won't be offended.***
I don't think there's one single word in the English language to describe it. Or even 10. I think it will take awhile to digest it all.
I started out in Thailand's capital city, the weird and wonderful (yet mostly weird) Bangkok. Then I went north to ride elephants and river rafts in Chiang Mai. Did a three day trek through the jungle. Slept in jungle huts in hill tribe villages with pigs and chickens and 14 other people from
Monk in the morning
also in Luang Prabang around the world. Then went south to Kao Sok National Park for more trekking and to hang out with leeches -- well, they hung out with me. They certainly weren't invited. Then hit the Gulf of Thailand to explore to Koh Samui and Koh Tao. Went snorkelling, diving, swam with turtles and got food poisoning. Had our own non-Koh Phagnan full moon party... After three weeks of being on tour with a fantastic group of people, I took off on my own to Cambodia. Visited the ancient temples of Angkor Wat. Taught English to Khmer kids in Siem Reap. Had to explain why Westerners put old people in homes rather than take care of them ourselves. Saw a floating fishing village. Saw poverty in the streets. Kids selling books to feed their families. Mothers toting babies asking for money. Begging men with missing limbs. Children who are landmine victims. Went to Phnom Penh where I learned all about the Khmer Rouge and the Pol Pot Regime and the genocide that was happening the year I was born. Saw photos of innocent people who were killed. Visited the former torture chambers. Saw bones and teeth and remnants of clothing in the
Waterfalls near LP
This face is for you, T. Killing Fields. Crossed the border by foot into Vietnam. Visited the Cu Chi Tunnels (had a little freak out), nearly got killed numerous times by kamikaze motorbikes in Saigon, took a boat ride on the Mekong, nearly froze in the highlands of Dalat, laid on the beach in Nha Trang, went over board having clothes made in the beautiful city of Hoi An, rode around on a motorbike with a man named Mr. Phong and experienced a slice of real Vietnam life. I then threw my bus pass away and joined an Australian couple in a car as they drove up the coast to Hue. Swam on China Beach. Spent an entire day on the back of a motorbike exploring the DMZ and getting a personalized, private tour of all the Vietnam War landmarks. Cruised Halong Bay on a junk amid massive limestone islands. Spent hours in cafes in the Old Quarter of Hanoi. Nearly lost my mind with the noise, horns, pollution and motorbikes. Was relieved to arrive in the quiet, peaceful capital city of Laos. Spent a week reading and writing in a hammock on an electricity-less island in Four Thousand Islands (recall the donut man chasing pig
Karin and Katarina
in LP...next to the Mekong...at sunset. incident?). Admired the beautious Luang Prabang and hung out with orange-robed monks. Ate on the floor with a Laos family. Met a 5 day old Laos baby. Flew back to Bangkok and head to southern Thailand once again by bus (real bus) -- to Koh Phagnan -- where I drank wine and watched sunsets with Swedish girls. Did yoga in the jungle. Saw an old friend on a random beach... Caught a train to the Malaysian Border. Ate blue rice and lost myself in Kota Bharu's famous food market. Spent a week in the Perhentian Islands...
...and that's just a little outline. For those who are interested, I can fill in the blanks at another time. 😊
I've managed to avoid getting robbed (as far as I know), injured (other than a few scrapes and bruises), contracting the avian flu (here's hoping), malaria (even though I stopped taking the medication), Dengue Fever, Japanese Encephilitis, Yellow Fever (but I guess I have a year to find out) and motorbike road rash/burns (phew, eh Nanny?!). I haven't been sick (well, except for my parasite incident on Koh Tao - but at least I wasn't hospitalized - God bless the nurse
in the dodgy backroad clinic), and I've managed to avoid being too scammed or too scared. I only lost one contact lens. Oh, and everytime I had laundry done, something didn't come back... but that's just a good excuse to go shopping, eh? 😊
I have, however, experienced culture shock (Welcome to Bangkok!), what it's like to be a foreigner, what it's like to not have anyone understand your language, what it's like to be the only female. I've learned to ALWAYS carry toilet paper in my backpack. Always bargain for a better deal. I've learned to go with the flow. I've learned that it pays to take calculated risks... I've learned that those chances often bring the best experiences. I've learned to be more patient. I've learned to live without hot showers, hair dryers, chicken and bras. (I have the shirts with the built in ones. Or I just wore my bikini. Sorry... perhaps too much information???) I've been chased by real pigs and ditch pigs, I've chased donut men on bikes and pushed tuk tuks. I think I've managed to avoid eating dog, cat, rat or insect (but you never know.) I now enjoy eating from food
In Bangkok...
...my humour hasn't changed. :) stalls in the streets...there's nothing better than roadside noodle soup when your overnight bus stops at 3 am. 😊
I've learned that it's okay to ride in the back of a local bus (flat bed truck with benches) with live animals and produce. That sometimes strangers offer the best advice. That it's possible to run into an old friend from home on a secluded beach on an island in the Gulf of Thailand. I've learned that guide books are simply that. Word of mouth is much more dependable.
I've learned to say hello, good bye and thank you in five languages, but unfortunately have since forgotten. Well, except for Laos...Sabaidee!!!
I've come to accept cockroaches and other Bangkok specialties. (A rat crawled under my table as I ate my oatmeal - oh yes, I found oatmeal - this morning). I don't even mind the smell (as much) anymore.
On the other hand, I haven't learned how to use a squat toilet properly...and not pee on my shoes. (Don't worry, I'm leaving them in Bangkok.) I've met incredible (and not so incredible) people from around the world. I have places to stay in Australia, Sweden, England, France,
My backpack...
(with the Canadian flag) on boat to Koh Phagnan USA, Belgium, Germany, Hong Kong, Laos, Israel, and clear across Canada too... 😊 I've filled three (count 'em, three) journals. Not sure whether to burn them or publish them... 😉
And I've learned (well, I've always known, but it's just been reinforced) how important my family and my friends are to me. There are people out there travelling whose home is the world. They're constantly moving, finding new friends, new sunsets, new families. And that's okay. But they sure as hell don't have what I have!
I think I'm a different person now than I was three months ago. Well, I know it. And I think I'll find out how much I've changed once I'm back to 'reality' (whatever that is). All I know is that I have new perspective. New ideas. A fresh mind.
Would I travel alone again? You bet. Without a doubt. I'm my own best company... (Mel, you're second best 😉. I've learned so much about myself... I've experienced a range of emotions (surprise, surprise) sheer bliss, frustration, fascination, lonliness, anger, fear, guilt, elation, shock, exhaustion....etc. etc. But the best feeling of all is the sense of pride I have for having done
it...
And so another chapter ends.... I'll celebrate this last night in Asia over green curry, maybe some pad thai and a Tiger Beer. See y'all on Saturday. 😊
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Jill Foley
non-member comment
homeward bound
Kel- Can't wait to see you. I have loved your entries (esp your latest one) and am so proud of you. See you on Saturday or very soon thereafter. xo