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Published: January 31st 2009
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Kunming Once Again Two years later and my path once again wound its way to Kunming. Direct flights anywhere notable don't exist from Changsha so to get anywhere you have fly via somewhere. Given Rodney's presence in Kunming, there seemed a decent choice.
I remember Kunming as a nice place, fairly attractive but nothing special. Perhaps living in a dump like Changsha alters one's perspective, but I spent my time walking around Kunming saying 'This place is gorgeous!' Tree-lined streets, parks and lakes and relaxing cafes made me feel like it was a European city. I changed my itinerary from last time by spending my time in the Prague cafe rather than the French cafe.
I was brought back to China upon my visit to the bank. After the Bank of China cashier told me that I couldn't change RMB to US dollars because I'm a foreigner, she shouted at some woman who looked like she was a customer. She wasn't. She was one of the changing money ladies who usually hawk outside banks. Not only did the Bank of China cashier initiate the illegal transaction, she also checked that the money given to me was
genuine. You got to love this place sometimes.
Viantiane First impressions of the capital Viantiane were pretty much along the lines of what I'd heard from others - it's ugly. However, after a few days there I pretty much changed my view on the place. It's incredibly relaxed - very little traffic or noise, riverside bars and no one in your face (except the few ladyboys around that is). It isn't very attractive but whilst having my first (and not last) sunset Beer Lao on the Mekong river, I toasted Viantiane and its relaxing atmosphere.
It was perfectly suited for what I wanted. I was keen to relax for a couple of days before starting the travel up North. I headed straight for the Mexican restaurant and the French cafes for my first decent fix of Western food for months. Laos food can wait I thought to myself, until I've gorged myself on all the food that I've missed from back home.
Highlights of Viantiane:-
• On my first night, the maid said the room had a 'clean' smell to it, so gave me a plate of garlic cloves to get rid
of it. After half an hour my room, unsurprisingly, smelt of garlic. Fair to say I didn't meet any lovely ladies that night.
• Went for a traditional Sauna and Massage which was wonderful. The place was a hut on stilts, and the sauna composed of a room with a water heater underneath it. But, boy, was it potent - I almost fainted when I came out. Funnily, when the owner said 'you can take off all your clothes over there and change into that skimpy cloth'; the Europeans nonchalantly did so, whereas I and the other Brits pretty much all said 'What, all our clothes?'
• It's meant to be part of the traveling in SE Asia experience, but riding on a tuk-tuk felt like having a pneumatic drill inserted somewhere - which is quite apt given the prices the drivers try to charge.
• Shaking hands with the Thai President and almost getting arrested in the process.
Vang Vieng After a fair amount of indecision, I opted to head North along the beaten path. Vang Vieng was my first stop. Caves, kayaking, trekking and tubing welcome you to this little
town. And also about a million tourists.
The place is gorgeous. An isolated feeling on the river and little hills jutting out plus all the activities on offer make it a great destination for a holiday. I opted for a 'Caving and Kayaking' one day tour, which was good fun and afforded a good opportunity to admire the scenery.
One thing I wasn't quite prepared for were the bars along the way. Given Laos' relaxed atmosphere I was expecting a few laid-back huts with tourists enjoying the sun and a beer. I certainly wasn't expecting an Ibizan rave (not that I've been to Ibiza, or a rave for that matter). The place is a complete piss up. The fact that you can drink Lao whiskey out of buckets should give you some sort of idea (it was actually rather nice).
• Had my 'small world' experiences. Bought some flip-flops from a chinese guy was moved here from Changsha (where I live) 5 years ago. Then met an American girl who lives in Dalian and works with my ex-colleague's boyfriend (it's less convoluted than it sounds!).
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leir
zoulei
:-D
hi,tim,it's me,lei, i read your dairy,but i can't understand all the words you wrote here,anyway,i'm happy that you find a place which make you feel relaxed.Best wishes!