Nong Kiew to Sam Neua

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Friday January, 18th 2008
I'm on my way to Sam Neua in the North-East of Laos. The sawngthaew for Vieng Kham leaves only at 11 a.m. It's strange and annoying. Usually, public transports leave early in the morning. I hope to get a connection to reach Vieng Thong to day. Five other tourists are also heading to Sam Neua : 2 Englishwoman, 1 EnglishMan and 2 Dutchwoman. It's nice to travel with a group. We can chat on the way. There are also some Lao people as you can see on the picture. We're told that some will get of after 15 minutes Lao time (i.e. one hour western time).

Arriving in Vieng Kham, the situation is pretty bleak. There is no sawngthaew available. The driver ask us 10$ per person to go to Vieng Thong. This is grossly overcharged. There is no cohesion in the group in the negociation starts pretty badly as some are in a rush to reach Vietnam. Soon, the price is transform in 100 000 kips, 11$. Our dealer has understood all the profit he could make of such a group. The only alternative is to wait for the night bus that arrives at around midnight and cost 40 000 kip to Vieng Thong and 80 000 to Sam Neua, an uncertain prospect for a group of 6.

We all agree to pay the 100 000 kip to go on. When we have paid, we are told that we will travel at the rear of a pick-up. There, I'm getting really angry. I'm getting my money back. The other ask to go with a party of 5. The man is accepting. Of course, at twice the price, he would be a fool to refuse. I'm offered the seat in the cabin. I will finally take it for 10 $, swearing that it was the last time I was fooled like that. Well, it won't...

The journey to Vieng Thong is uneventful. As the driver doesn't speak English, I soon have used up all my lao language skill and I concentrate on the beautiful mountain landscape.

Vieng Thong is a nice small town and we found 3 rooms to accommodate our group in the guesthouse near the bus stop. The night bus is at 4 a.m. and there is a small bus at 7 a.m. Group or not, I'm not getting up at 4. For me, that's sure. It seems that nobody really wants to wake up that early so we will continue together tomorrow.

We have hot water at the guesthouse, but I'm forgetting one detail. There will be hot water, when there will be electricity after 6 p.m. Anyway, It's warm enough here for a cold shower, so why to bother.

In the evening, we're playing Yatzee. As the terrace has no proper light we're ending the game with headlight. Well, it is a great fun. By the way, who has won ?


Saturday January, 19th 2008

Today, the 6 of us are going from the Vieng Thong to Sam Neua.

At 6:15, I'm almost ready and I go out to wake up the English girls who are in another building. I see a bus stopped in front of the guesthouse. I'm asking the driver “Sam Neua”. He answer “yes”. That's nearly half of his English. I'm pointing to myself and then to the hotel and start to count in Lao from 1 to 6. The men beside me translate. Yes, there are places for 6 people. It's amazing there are always places for more people in a Lao bus (except VIP buses). There are plastic chairs in the alley. So, it's easy to accommodate 6 people with their luggage. No reason to worry.

I'm rushing back to the guesthouse, knocked again at the English girls door “The bus is there, hurry up.” I do the same at the Dutch girls' door. There, I just hear a vague answer through the door that I interpreted as a Yes.

I'm getting my bag and I'm at bus door. I'm soon joined by the 3 English. We're waiting a bit though, the conductor is pressing us to get on. We soon have a place. No news of the Dutch girls. The conductor wanders about the las 2 people, we are supposed to be 6. The bus starts, moving very slowly in front of the guesthouse. At the last moment, the 2 girls are coming out of their room and getting on the bus.

It's strange. I was the least in a hurry to reach Sam Neua and I'm the first on the bus. The 2 Dutch girls were adamant to quickly reach Vietnam and they've nearly missed it.

The bus is progressing slowly in the fog. Often, it's going up in the first gear.

But well, we arrive safe and soud in Sam neua at 2 pm

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