River Travel in Laos

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"You just had an adventure and didn't know it." That was Jimmy D. piloting the 'Gyre' against the outgoing tide in the narrow entrance to Secret Bay in southeast Alaska. The fathometer had gone to 6 feet, expected by the captain but not normally a desirable situation in a $250,000 vessel with lives at stake - but a great captain with local knowledge, and the right conditions, doable and realistic.

Every day in Laos unsuspecting travelers have this sort of adventure without really appreciating it... white-water rafting in a steel hulled boat 50 feet long, 5 feet wide. Sluicing between exposed rocks a mere 10 feet on either side in class 2 rapids. The boat captains are amazing - local knowledge and precise timing to the max. Steering these things is a matter of power and timing - there is no reverse, no bow thrusters, the engine/prop does not swivel. The only way to stop the propeller from turning is to turn off the engine.

Now, it is one thing to hit a rock in an inflatable raft or kayak - another to hit one in an extremely long, ridged boat. Don't forget that the boat is covered and no one has on a life preserver, because there aren't any. As we approached the bigger rapids, the captain’s helper would signal us all to stay low, not to stand. For sure as the center of gravity in a rock strike would be, rather critical. Yup, ya'al just had an adventure and didn't even know it. And if you did ya'll‘d be toast.

Some boats are wooden hulled with wood superstructures; many are steel hulled with wooden superstructures. The design minimizes draft and puts the propeller very high in the water. The boats are very long in relation to their beam. The captain sits very far forward, better to see and avoid the upcoming rocks…

There are miles of calm river travel and the engine drones on. When the captain throttles back, or starts to rev, you know there is a change in water coming. The rapids don’t go on for long and the ride, due to the boats long water line, is not so bouncy as it would be in a raft, but the water may come into the boat, cameras can get wet and everyone’s attention is fixed. But then the miles of calm water roll on and afterward you hear comments like, “Long and uncomfortable.” “Noisy.” “Beautiful scenery.” True, true, true, but don’t forget: “Great to be alive!”

The river in most of the photos is the Nam Ou between the Mekong and Nong Khiau. My experience in Laos is very limited so take it all with a grain. Many rivers are too small for the covered motorized boats and there use may well depend on the river height which varies with the seasons.

The Mekong in the Luang Prabang area is quite large with fast water in places but no real rapids. There are some very big boats on the Mekong and river travel in the slow boats seems quite safe.

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Photos

Helm
Note the throttle on the port side.