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Published: June 28th 2009
Sorry for the long delay between posts. We've resigned ourselves to the fact that we may not be able to post photos until we arrive in Bangkok, so for now a brief synopsis of China before updating you on our current location.
end of Beijing- We last we posted photos we had visited the Great Wall, had our requisite Peking Duck dinner (yummy, but expensive and not very much food.....Pat resorted to gnawing on the head and eating the brain). Afterwards, we headed to the olympic village to take those night pictures. In the morning we visited the Temple of Heaven and watched Beijingers dance, play hacky sack, practice opera, and all manners of other interesting things. We ended the day by boarding our first night train to Shanghai.
For this train we were booked on a Soft Sleeper. Basically we had a room with four beds (two sets of bunk beds), a little table, and a door that could close and lock. At the end of car was a toilet with Western toilet (oh yeah, I forgot a narrative on Chinese toilets.....you'll be glad we can't post photos.....a porcelian hole in the floor over which you squat, hence
the name squat toilets. What makes it even better is you can't put toilet paper in them, so all TP goes in the garbage can next to the hole....not so great for those people with say, a nose. ) Anywho, a relatively peaceful journey and we woke up to arrive in Shanghai.
SHANGHAI- We were basically in Shanghai for 24 hours. At first we were very disappointed as we thought about how much there was to do in Beijing. Turns out, Shanghai is really about two things: architecture and shopping. After taking some amazing photos of the skyline during the day we decided to spring for dinner for two overlooking the Pudong skyline at night. Some absolutely amazing photos after we figured out the long exposure feature on our camera. Stay tuned for that.
The next morning we visited the French Concession, a lovely tree lined area with French colonial buildings from Shanghai's early heydays. We stumbled upon a French inspired garden complete with a huge statue of Marx and Engels and of course had to use our tripod for a few pics of both of us. Then it was time to head to the train station again.
Unlike the previous trip, this time it was a HARD SLEEPER. Two sets of triple decker bunks in a quasi-room with no fourth wall and definitely no door. It was supposedly air conditioned, but we believe this was greatly exaggerated. Unlike the other train, only squat toilets as well. The best part.....it was a 17 hour journey. I'll spare you the details on the state of the bathrooms in the morning.
Somehow we did survive (thanks in no small part to the beer cart man) and we arrived early in the morning in Xi'an.
XI'AN- This city in North Central China has a large Muslim population and was the original capital of China. It's claim to fame these days is the Terracotta Warriors. It is also the oldest city with fully intact city walls in China. So, we simply had to rent bicycles and ride around on top of the walls. Quite a bumpy, but fun ride. The Muslim quarter sold lots of amazing dried fruits, spicy nuts, and most importantly, lamb kebabs!
The next day we made our journey to see the Terracotta Warriors. There are currently three pits open, with the third still largely
an active excavation site. I was suprised to find out the Warriors were actually painted originally with quite bright paints. However, after being exposed to air, they all turn to the dull color we see in pictures and on TV. Another surprise, all but one of the warriors they've found so far were severely damaged and teams of researchers have the pleasure of working huge jigsaw puzzles to put them back together.
After the Warriors, we headed to get the much recommended Chinese Foot Massage. An 80 minute massage for about $10. It was, perhaps, the strangest massage ever. Part pedicure, part body massage, part physical therapy, part strange fetish video....... A truly unique experience and definitely much needed.
The next morning, we headed with glee to the AIRPORT to fly to our next destination.
CHENGDU- We headed to Chengdu on Chrissy's Birthday and I was so wrought with grief over not being able to celebrate it with her, that I decided to stay in bed all day. OK, actually, our room in Xi'an might have given me some kind of respiratory infection and I was sick as a dog. Luckily, it was our tour guide's home
town and you can buy antibiotics over the counter. She took Pat to the pharmacy, told them my symptoms, and $4 later I'm on my way to better health. We did however, miss the Chinese Opera night due to my high fever and talk of taking me to hospital (and likely quarantining all of us).
I was recovered enough on the second day to make the trip to see the Pandas at the Panda Reservation. Kind of like a whole zoo devoted solely to Giant Pandas and Red Pandas. Lots and lots of pictures for you all to oooo and ahhhh at once we find a computer with connections. For dinner that night we had Chengdu's famous Hot Pot. A little like Chinese super, duper spicy fondue. Bacon, beef, tofu skin, lotus roots, you name it, we ate it. A deliciously greasy way to end our visit to Chengdu.
JINGHONG- The next morning we headed to the airport again for our flight to JINGHONG, which is basically a border town for the trip to Laos. A dramatic change in scenery. After two plus weeks of huge megacities, cars driving on sidewalks, and never really knowing which way to
go.....we arrive in some kind of Chinese version of Jamaica. Palm trees, orchids, giant buddhist temples (not so Jamaican), and cats, dogs, chickens, whatever running around everywhere. We had promised to eat chicken feet so our leader bought us a round of the Chinese delicacy. Here's your lesson so you can try it at home. Step 1: Buy cold chicken foot at local open air market with said animals running around it. Step 2: Bite off toenails and spit in nearest garbage can. Step 3: Bite off the toes, suck off the skin and meat, and spit out the bones. Step 4: Eat the 'best' part.....the jumble of tendons around the ankle. Don't worry, we have pics of this too.
In the morning we board the bus for our 5 hour drive to Luang Nam Tha Laos.
LUANG NAM THA- Holy moly.....what a big change! We arrive in a very small city in Asian tropical paradise! Mountains, rice paddies, rivers, palm trees, and a noticeable more laid back pace! Of course, the standard of living has also notably dropped, but people are super friendly. We had our first taste of Lao food, felt like millionaires withdrawing 700,000 Kip
from the ATM (about $80), and proceeded to rent bicycles.
On our bike journey we got some fabulous pictures of the mountains and rice paddies before arriving at a waterfall. Not huge, but pretty none the less. We made a quick journey up to the golden Stupa on the top of the mountain, before heading out for dinner. We decided to try the Indian restaurant recommended by our LP guidebook and were not disappointed. However, the very friendly owner is likely now sporting a TB Rays hat after Pat left in on a chair.
The next morning, we loaded up for a 9 hour drive to Luang Prabang, our current location. We reckon Laos is something like the Costa Rica of SE Asia....so much outdoors stuff to do in a very tropical, laid back setting. Luang Prabang is so unique it is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Chock full of Buddhist temples, fabulous street markets, and directly on the Mekong River. Our first night in the best guest house of the entire trip, we decided to hit the night market for dinner. We chose some fresh spring rolls and the sacred Green Papaya salad. They make it for
you in the market and let you select how many chili peppers you want in the salad. We should have know we were in trouble when the man laughed at us, twice. It was indeed, ridiculously spicy, full of fish sauce, but delicious none the less.
The next day we visited the former royal palace (Laos is now Communist) before heading out to visit a much larger waterfall and get our first chance to swim! (this place gives new definition to humid). We entertained everyone by displaying our skills on the rope swing before heading back for Lao cooking school. We learned some great dishes, ate them all, and will undoubtably be hosting a big dinner party when we return.
That brings us to today (finally!), we started the day with a 30 minute drive up river before boarding kayaks to paddle down river for 5 minutes. There, we disembarked and went for an elephant ride through the jungle. After the ride and lunch, we got back in the kayaks for a four hour epic kayaking journey down one of the tributaries for the Mekong. It was beautiful scenery, lots of water buffalo, and our first taste of
white water on kayaks. We nearly made it to the end without tipping over, but alas, we got to go for a swim and become more acquainted with the many large rocks creating the rapids. Luckily, helmets and life jackets were required.
When we got home, we climbed the city mountain for some sunset views of this great city. We are loving Laos and will be very sad to leave it behind. We've also learned more Lao than we did Chinese. We can say hello (Saba dii), goodbye (Saba dii), cat (meow), and thank you (khop jii). With that, we must say SABA DII! We look forward to posting pics and updates soon. With any luck, we'll get a chance in Vientienne, the Lao capital.
Thanks for all the great comments....we miss you all and can't wait to tell you all about our trip when we get home!
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charlotte brookes
non-member comment
LP where to stay?
Hi, what was the name of the guest house you stayed in in LP and how much was it? I'm heading that way at the end of this week and it's great when someone gives a recommendation!