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Published: March 11th 2007
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Mekong River
Now we know how sardines feel!!! Slow Boat down the Mekong
Ok, so we made it to Laos alright, with one of the most lax border crossings we have seen so far, as well as one of the most novel. Arrived off our minibus, and had our visa taken care of whilst we sat and had a rest, then a longtail boat across the Mekong River, then checked in on the Laos side, without anything so much as an official in sight, except behind the counter asking for an extra 2000kips of "overtime money" (about 20p).
After some bad advise by a Thai person, on the Thai side of the border, we made the crossing without hardly any cash, only to find no cash machines available, and no other means of getting cash out (visa or money exchange). Meaning James had to make a sneaky illegal border crossing (so as not to have to buy another Laos visa) back into Thailand by longtail boat, and a quick moped ride to the nearest ATM. Very Naughty. Although the authorities probably didn't care less anyway.
So Hauy Xai was our starting point for our brief 2 week excursion into the little known about tourist destination that
Mekong River
Sunset on the Mekong is Laos. From here, we were not particularly sure where we we were next going to, or indeed, how we were getting there. Our decision was made for us by the fact that there were only 2 options available - a. A bus up north (where we did not want to go), or b. A 2 day trip on a slow boat down the meandering Mekong River to a place we did n't know too much about called Luang Prabang. So the boat trip won out.
We made it down to the port not really knowing what to expect, other than an uncomfortable experience. It certainly did not fail to live up to what we had heard! 80 Falangs (foreigners) packed into a long but thin boat. Leg room was at an absolute minimum, and the seats weren't even big enough to fit bums on properly. Meaning a fairly uncomfortable ride for the first day (6 hours). A lively atmosphere, and a few Beer Laos helped alleviate the discomfort somewhat though.
Overnighted in a non-descript place called Pakbeng, before a second day on the river. This time, we managed to get on a more comfortable vessel, where we
had luxurios plastic seats, placed right in front of the bar. Another 8 hours later we arrived in Luang Prabang, in need of a good shower, a good meal, and a cushion! All in all, it was a worthy experience, with some stunning scenery, only slightly tainted by the fact we shared it with 80 odd (in both ways) other tourists!!
Luang Prabang
So, when we arrived at the pier, Karen ran off to find us somewhere to kip, before the other 80 piled off, and got there first. Sneaky. Just as well, as we saw some of them, backpacks still loaded on backs, wandering round 2 hours later!!
We instantly liked Luang Prabang. Laos's French colonial history is in evidence everywhere you might wander. Grand, Swiss chalet style guest-houses, boutique bistro's, art shops and bakeries everywhere! We were please to find the Laos bars also shared the French passion for wine, which had been seriously missing in our time further down S.E. Asia!
Spent the first day pottering. Looking round the shops, haggling for the market wears, and eating in rather nice places such as the Joma Bakery (Karen became addicted to the ham and
Mekong River - Pakbeng
Morning of the second day... first time we have been cold since New Zealand!! cheese quiche!).
Decided to be a bit more sociable, and joined forces with some fellow travellers, whom we befriended on the boat, and took a tuk-tuk to a nearby waterfall (yes another one!!!), where we spent an enjoyable couple of hours swimming, and jumping of the waterfall (only 3 meters) before heading back. Unfortunately the journey back was lengthened by the dying gearbox of the sorry state that was the tuk-tuk. Some impressive handiwork by the driver Jay got us back, although it did require us getting out and pushing, and considerable amounts of laughing at him cursing the gearbox with bits of it all over the dashboard! Nice waterfall though!
Had a plan to do some sightseeing the next day, started off well by going to the market for a look around, but all went terribly wrong when we stopped in a wine bar for a quick vino blanco, which turning into 2, into 3 into 4... which turned into an extremely early night (6.30pm!!). Karen had a bit of a special turn...
Booked ourselves on another bus out of Luang Prabang, down to Veng Vieng, which promises to be a good laugh. We have heard
Mekong River
Another option for travel was the Laos speedboat. Less said the better!!! something about floating down the river, and drinking at bars... we'll let you know!!
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Kirsty & Tim
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Happy Birthday
Happy Birthday to youuuuuuu, happy birthday to youuuuuuu, etc etc. have a good one!!! x