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Published: February 4th 2008
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We left the Boliven Plateau and headed south, down the Mekong River, to the Four Thousand Islands. These little islands, which are set in the middle of the Mekong River are beautiful and, as the name suggests, there are thousands of them. We spent one night on the sleepy island of Don Khong....and we have to admit....it was a little boring. The highlight was renting "Turbo" bikes and riding around the island, getting up close and personal with the numerous water buffalo.
After a night on Don Khong, we took a little boat to Don Det. Don Det was much different. Still very relaxing and beautiful, but there was much more of a backpacker "scene" here. The accommodation available are riverside bungalows. Hundreds of one room stilted thatched houses line the river and you can rent them for $2 per night. Bathroom and shower are shared and, in our case, down a little path about 50 feet. Don Det has book exchanges, internet cafes, pizza, and lots of backpackers hanging out in hammocks and enjoying the island. Everything a lazy back packer needs (including "Happy Shakes").
During the first two days we were a little antsy. We've been on
the go everyday, so the thought of literally doing nothing seemed impossible. We rented bicycles again to explore the island. There is a bridge built by the French that connects Don Det to another island, called Don Kon, so we went over there, too. At Don Kon, the Mekong goes over a large cascading waterfall, so we rode beside that and watched from different viewpoints.
This part of Laos is right at the Laos/Cambodia border and is the best place to view the endangered Irrawaddy River Dolphin. We hooked up with another traveller and paid for a boat to take us to the view the Dolphins. It was a lovely ride down the river to a big rock in the middle of the river. We got out of the boat and sat on the rock to view the Dolphins. We sat, and we sat, and we sat - nothing. I barely blinked so that I wouldn't miss one surface. We learned that the Dolphins tend to come out to play around sunset, so we waited for long time, but then we saw one! It was about 100 meters away, but we saw it. After that about four of them
began to surface and blow frequently. The closest one came about 50 meters from us. There are only about 100 Irrawaddy River Dolphins left in the world, so we were happy to see those four. A consequence of spending sunset on the river looking at dolphins was that we had to bike back in the dark, but with a flashlight and some team work we made it home.
An elephant just walked by the internet cafe....
So, anyway, after that day riding our bikes we were beat, so we got into the groove of Don Det and spent our time reading in hammocks, eating, drinking and meeting other travellers. Lots of people get stuck on Don Det - for $2 per night and a few luxuries from home, like pizza, you can understand why. We spent some of our evenings listening to Jack Johnson music over and over again in a bar and when the island generators went off each night at 10pm a group of us would continue the party at the beach. Each of the three nights and we hung out at the beach, vicious dog fights would break out between three strays. The first time
this happened, I was terrified. I ran up what I later found out was a pile of telephone poles to escape the attacks. Chris, of course, sat on the beach, beer in hand, watching the fight without even a flinch. I sat up on the poles fretting over the fact that we decided not to get rabies shots before traveling. When the travel doctor recommended rabies vacinations, I said, "we'll never be around animals". Yeah right. Stray dogs, stray cats and even stray monkeys are all around. Elephants, water buffalo, cows, pigs and chickens cross our path on a daily basis. I've never seen so many animals! I wish I had got the rabies shot! As our time on Don Det went on, the dog fights became common place and I, too, would watch with beer in hand until the fight stopped and the dogs moved on. It's amazing what you can get used to.
Have we mentioned how hot it is here? It's so hot and humid and muggy all day long. Swimming in the river was a necessity on the islands; and since the water in the shower is pumped directly from the Mekong, you might as
well just put on your bathingsuit and jump in, rather than fuss with all that pesky soap.
We really loved Southern Laos. It was very underdeveloped and a bit dusty, but the people were sweet and the scenes were stunning. We're looking forward to covering the North of Laos when we return from India. Because it is dry season here now, things are very dry and dusty. I think in a few months things will be greener and more lush in Laos.
We're in Cambodia now - loving it - and we'll post about our experiences here soon.
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Susan Spindler
non-member comment
Love it!!
Hi Chris and Becky...Can't tell you how much I am enjoying your travelblog....love your writing and the photo's are wonderful. We lived in Singapore but didn't travel to Laos/Cambodia area ...one which my husband really wants to see someday. It so fascintating to hear how others live so simply...yet seem perfectly happy ....not like us back here in N. America! Keep safe and have fun and keep the messages coming. Thanks..love, Susan