Don Khong (10-13 Oct 12)

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And just when I thought time couldn't pass any slower than in Tat Lo, I realised that I hadn't seen the rest of Laos yet...

From Tat Lo, it was a 2h bus ride westwards back to Pakse, where I originally thought I might have to spend the night, as I thought I wouldn't be able to catch the last transport down south to Siphandon (4000 Islands). Turns out I was, and managed to get on the 4 p.m. sawngthaew for the 2h ride down south, barrelling at goodness-knows-what speed!

The only problem was when I arrived at Ban Nakasang, which is the ferry launch point for Don Khong (the largest of the islands), it was already dark, and there being no guesthouses in the vicinity, I had to charter the entire boat at a higher-than-usual price (40k v.s. 15k kip) to make the crossing. Lesson learnt (actually I kinda knew this already): always try to arrive at your destination before sunset!

Anyway, so what's Siphandon? Well, it's basically a collection of (4000!) islands at the mouth of the Mekong River, where the river is widest, at the southernmost tip of Laos, at the border with Cambodia. These islands were once (say 10-15 years ago?) completely off the beaten track, and a well-kept secret, but they have recently become quite popular with the usual gamut of partying falang, though of course nowhere near the levels of the Thai islands or Bali...

The main islands to stay on are Don Khong and Don Det/ Don Khon. With no particular reason in mind, I decided to check out Don Khong first. Though the largest, it's actually the quieter of the two. Apart from a small cluster of guesthouses (I stayed at Pone's River Guest House) next to the ferry landing point, the rest of the island remains mostly rural, given to padi fields and bamboo-thatched roof huts, and lots and lots of domesticated animals! It's not entirely unpopulated either, as I found out one afternoon walking around, and seeing the hordes of students coming from their schools!

But still, like in Tat Lo, time just passes slower here...

After three days and three nights of not doing much, I wondered whether I should move on and check out the other islands. I was debating in my head whether to stay another night, when a minibus full of package Spanish tourists pulled up at my guesthouse, and made the decision for me!

So on to Don Det tomorrow then!

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Photos

It's Not a Real Lao Ride
Unless there's a chicken or two!

Don Khong Schoolchildren
For such a quiet place, I found out it was in fact reasonably populated! The schoolchildren that I saw definitely numbered in the hundreds.