Failed attempt

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Well it has been a long time that I have not updated my blog but hopefully my memory will not be too poor at remembering the twist in the various stages that have gone by one my trip.

After Karakol with the french family with whom I was traveling for that week we went to Chopon-Ata, a hub of Russian-Khazak holiday makers. The difference is tremendous going from quiet streets and rather useless boulevards to a dis-organized but booming little town with nightclubs, beaches and countless rather fine restaurants. At the same time was a summit of 8 "presidents" composed essentially of the local administrators and some Kazakh representatives. For this event they had hundreds of policemen line the streets and control every access route at just under 20 kilometers in diameter. Tremendous. They also decorated the main avenue for the same length. All this for the convoys to shoot by at nearly 100km/h. interesting to see this different was of doing it all. I then decided to head off the next day towards Bishkek and finally China.

I arrived in Bishkek but decided to visit the town for a mere few hours and head the same evening firstly to Osh then to the border. Bishkek was pleasant with many tree, pleasant atmosphere and an interesting combination of soviet grandeur and Muslim influence.
The journey to Osh was overnight and surprising pleasant. Upon arriving I found quite quickly a transport to Sary Tash, town from which the Irkeshtam access leads off from. I had done this bit of the journey before therefore it was noting new thought the extremely scenic environment with tall mountains and strong streaming rivers is just breathtaking. Arriving in Sary Tash quite late (I had hoped to cross the border that same day) but managed to hitch a ride with a truck driver that was fetching cargo from the border. Fun as it was firstly unbelievably bumpy and secondly the son spoke some words of english making the conversations a series of laughter and jokes.
I got to Irkeshtam and was surprised by the bareness. On the way already many onld bunkers and shoot out towers overlooking rocky hills and river beds. The border village just before is a rugged and extremely unwelcoming trailer/truck park where the ground is paved with rubbish that truck drivers carelessly dispose of. Though accommodation was VERY cheap. The next morning following a succession of two no man's land areas and five passport controls, the last one, the Chinese one.... goodness I had not foreseen what came next.
Somehow inspite I had clearly stipulated in my visa application at the Chinese embassy in Edinburgh my visa was not starting from the 28th but last possible entry date, this in spite I had a six months visa. After debate arguments, and every attempt possible, the Chinese authorities would not let me go past. One senior officer even took me for a tour in the village (this time a nice one unlike the Kyrgyz (dramatic difference between Chinese and Kyrgyz border, China evidently with a lot more money).

I broke down after having spent so many hours and so much effort to merely be told go BACK was too much. Not great. Eventually they took me in their officials vehicle back to the border where I was able to hitch a ride back to Sary Tash. As this truck was loaded this time, we spent just under 6 hours for 80 Kilometers.... In Sary Tash got lucky twice with immediate transport to Osh then Bishkek.

I went immediately to the Chinese embassy and luckily through wit and pretended non-comprehension, I was able to get a new visa application in on the same day. it was mere luck that I arrived there on a Wednesday only day of the week on which they accept applications. Miraculously I got another 90day visa for China and within two days instead of the normal two weeks waiting.

I therefore got plenty time to explore Bishkek and get some souvenirs. Very pleasant place and I luckily met the French and a Swiss couple on the night of my arrival. Even had some nice black caviar with local vodka. To the sound of it I ought have done that in the city of caviar - Astrakhan. but well better late than never.

So back off again all the way to Irkeshtam but this time had to spend a day in Irkeshtam as the border is closed on Sunday (not my luck that place). I got to the border and they nearly didn't want to let me trough. This was due to the temperature control that they impose on everyone entering in China, and my happened to be 1c to high as a girl in the dorm I was staying the night before was sick and coughing a lot.

Eventually got through and got to Kashgar with a few hours. FINALLY. 6 days and 240usd and countless efforts....

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Comments

[EdwardC]

Puncture
I forgot on the way for the second time towards the Irkeshtam border, Blew four tires on a journey of under 200km. No bad as a record. Thank goodness that tires can be repaired essentially anywhere and that a truly broken one can be exchanged. amazing..... They did repair two tires with one spare wheel. good skills....