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Asia » Kazakhstan » Southern Kazakhstan » Shymkent August 27th 2017

Our original idea was to take a night train from Almaty to Astana, but just before we left NZ we read more about Turkistan and changed our plans. From the 16th to 18th centuries Turkistan was the capital of the Kazakh khans. It is home to the mausoleum of Turkic Muslim holy man, Kozha Akhmed Yasaui, and was built by Timur in the late 14th century. It is Kazakhstan’s greatest architectural monument and most important pilgrimage site. The guidebook claims that it rivals Timor's creations in Uzbekistan such as the Registran in Samarkand, and says it has no rivals in Kazakhstan for man-made beauty. We figured that it would likely be the last chance (and only time on this trip) that we get to see the stunning blue tile work so quintessentially Central Asia. At only ... read more
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Asia » Kazakhstan » Southern Kazakhstan » Shymkent August 26th 2017

Our night train to Shymkent left at just gone 10pm. The people at the hostel told us to get there 2 hours before and that had been the drill in Uzbekistan, but after collecting our bags from the hostel and getting a taxi there it turned out we could have arrived 30 minutes before and been in plenty of time. We were a bit disappointed to be leaving on a Friday night as the nightlife in Almaty was just beginning to stir (though not that anywhere remotely decent would have let us in with the outfits we have anyway). For the first time we were travelling first class. It was a big modern train, we couldn't see either end from our carriage and a sign on the side suggested it had a top speed of 200kmh. ... read more
First class luxury
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Asia » Kazakhstan » Southern Kazakhstan September 22nd 2016

Now that's a strange name for a blog you might say, and I actually agree with you! I have just set out for a 3 week tour of the '5 Stans' and as preliminary reading, I found this great book on Kazakhstan, and this was the title of the first chapter. Now whether their claim is true that apples were first found here, and whether Adam and Eve were in fact Kazakhs, is not really important, but I can assure you that Kazakhstan has myriads of apple orchards and the product tastes great. A couple of us from the tour arrived first in Almaty as the advance party, to get acclimatised and adjust to the local time. Fortunately the flight over from Sydney via Abu Dhabi with Etihad was pretty uneventful, but a strange thing happened ... read more
Besbarmak for anyone?
Zenkov Cathedral
Typical Almaty metro station

Asia » Kazakhstan » Southern Kazakhstan » Shymkent August 16th 2016

Au passage de la frontière sino-kazakh, une page s'est de nouveau tournée. Finis le désert et les champs d'éoliennes, place aux steppes infinies et aux princes de ces terres chevauchant leurs pur sang. Au carrefour entre l'Europe, la Chine, la Russie et le Moyen Orient, nous découvrons les marques du passé à travers une population qui nous transporte depuis Alexandre le Grand jusqu'à Joseph Staline en passant par Tamerlan et Gengis Kan. Nous retrouvons nos amis Maëlys et Adrien pour un mois, avec un objectif: rejoindre la mer d'Aral en Ouzbekistan, en partant de Almaty au Kazakhstan. Nous avons suivi la route de la soie en traversant les montagnes puis les déserts, puis les déserts, et enfin les déserts! Impressionnant, il y a plus de 2000ans, des caravanes entières traversaient ces contrées, été comme hiver... Après ... read more
Kogershin Family
Aral Sea
Minaret in Bukhara

Asia » Kazakhstan » Southern Kazakhstan May 18th 2015

Day 18 - Astana to Balkhash This was going to be a long day. We knew we had to register our visas with the migration police at an OVIR office within 5 days of entering the country, and we were running out of time. Registration is a throwback to the old days under communism, and exists now seemingly only through bureaucratic inertia. We had heard that it could take up to 2 days to complete the process so made contingency plans for staying longer in Astana. We even had a translation of a request to process us quickly, courtesy of the people at the Americana. In the event, though the OVIR was packed and chaotic, the officer spoke excellent English and we had our registration stamp within 20 minutes. It took an age to get out ... read more
Karlag isolation cell
Wild horses
Kazakh mausoleums

Asia » Kazakhstan » Southern Kazakhstan November 17th 2014

On Air Astana to Delhi November 16 2014 I am beginning to understand what the Queen feels like since we have been treated like royalty in Almaty for the last three days. This is entirely due to Samat and Mira who had looked after us with fantastic Kazakhstan hospitality. I had asked Ilmir, who had been a key contact at Merck when I was managing the account at Aesica and was a native of Kazakhstan, if he knew anyone in Almaty we could meet to learn about the city. He contacted an old school friend who suggested his wife's cousin, Samat. Little did we realise how well this meant we would be looked after. Samat works at the Ministry of Finance and had just moved to Almaty from Astana six months previously. His family, his wife ... read more
The couple ready to walk down the aisle
The war memorial
Making house meat sausage at the Green Market

Asia » Kazakhstan » Southern Kazakhstan » Shymkent September 17th 2014

Sept 16-18th Turkestan. We were scheduled to drive from Zhabagvly village thru to Shymkent this morning, but things didn't quite go to plan. The first car reportedly had a dodgy front wheel, so we only made it to the next village where we changed cars and driver, and headed off to Shymkent. Just 10kms along the road this car experienced fairly serious engine failure ie it jerked to a halt with the smell of petrol. The empty looking petrol indicator didn't seem to be the trouble according to the driver as he peered under the bonnet with a lighted cigarette in his mouth ! Eventually they called up a replacement vehicle and we were finally on our way - this time successfully arriving in Shymkent about noon. Shmykent is perhaps best known for Khazackhstan's best local ... read more
Yasaui Mausoleum
Yasaui Mausoleum
Yasaui Mausoleum


Sept 14 and 15. had a great train ride in a 2 bunk sleeper compartment on Kazakh Railways on train #33 leaving Almaty 2 at 2133 and arriving on the dot at Tulkibas station at 0927. Was meet by our guide for the 2 days and a Russian made Lada Niva 4WD jeep, so roared off to our home stay. The Asku - Zhabagvly Nature Reserve is one of the largest Nature Reserves in Khazakhstan at 13000 sq kms, and 'allegedly' is the home to a vast number of birds, and animals including bears, ibex, marmots, fixes, wolves, goats, boars, etc. It is crushingly dry and this excludes weeds that simply can't hack the conditions. Lots of plants,biodiversity is immense 1,400 flowering plants.....some surprising...the clear ancestor of our beloved Rhubarb for example. A few remaining flowers...many ... read more
Mountain Erebus butterfly
Berberis berries
Original Rhubarb

Asia » Kazakhstan » Southern Kazakhstan September 10th 2014

Sept 10th. After a very pleasant flight on Air Astana from Bishkek to Almaty, we arrived at an excellent Guesthouse called 'Guesthouse on Sadoyva' ( highly recommended ). Almaty sightseeing was the plan for today, so off we went first to see the Russian state puppet theatre where we were able to watch a Puppet show. Quick jaunt around the main shopping bazaar called the Green market where we were able to resist any purchases. Next door to the bazaar was the Central mosque - a recently built mosque that had stunning blue mosaics on the domes. The centrally Panfilov park is beautiful, and dominated by the candy coloured Russian Orthodox Zenkov Cathedral. Built in 1904 entirely of wood (even the nails were made if wood), the Cathedral was one of the few large Tsarist-era structures ... read more
Impressive Russian War memorial statue Almay
Shimbulak Ski resort
Arasan Bathhouse Lobby Almaty - sorry inside photos are all X rated !!


As the title suggests, having done the relevant background reading, it was almost an imperative that a trip to Charyn Canyon was on the cards, as after all, this is the world's second largest canyon (after the blatantly obvious canyon), and the visuals were bound to appeal. Hiring a car plus driver is a sound way of achieving this trip, and the journey can be broken up by a brief stopover in either Shelek or Kokpek towns, neither of any great size, but both suitable for at very least taking a breather. Arriving at the canyon's national park area, a nominal admission fee will allow you to drive as far as the ridge of the canyon, and the start of the unmarked pathways which lead to the viewing spots. Sure footing is something of a requirement, ... read more
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