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Published: April 9th 2024
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Okuno-in Cemetery
Monks at Okuno-in Cemetery I headed to Koyasan from Nara. As usual, this involved multiple transfers including a cable car ride at the end.
Located on an altitude of 1,000 meters, I hadn't heard of Koyasan before reaching Japan, but came across it in a travel magazine and the more I read about, the more interested I got in visiting it.
This place was founded by a monk, Kukai, later called Kobu Daishi in 816AD. Kobu Daishi founded Shingon Buddhism in Japan and chose Koyasan as the base probably because of the 8 peaks and basin of Koyasan that resembles a Lotus and hence considered auspicious.
As I climbed through the cable car and gained altitude and then stepped into Koyasan, I could immediately feel a sense of calm. The mystical fog was everywhere, the sound of the wooden shoes of the monks echoed the place. I immediately extended my stay in this place by a night, even though I had not visited a single place there.
After dropping my bags at the homestay, I headed to the Tourist Information Center and met an American man who now lives in Koyasan and works at the information center. Interestingly, he had visited
Okuno-in Cemetery
Tombstones and monuments at Okuno-in Cemetery India and covered offbeat places like Odisha. I asked him why he lives in Koyasan, he just smiled and said go to the cemetery and you will find the answer.
I headed to Okuno-in, considered the holiest place in Koyasan. Japan's largest cemetery with more than 200,000 tombstones, this is the place which has Kobu Daishi's mausoleum, where he remains in eternal meditation. In fact, the followers of Kobu Daishi bring him food every day and offer prayers, a ritual I was fortunate to observe (happens at 6AM and 10.30AM every day, no matter the weather).
Okuno-in, to put it simply, is magical. It was raining when I was there, not crowded and walking through the tombstones and the cedar forest, I felt cleansed. It was a meditative, contemplative experience, but also an experience where I could feel emptiness, a sense of floating.
I spent the whole day just exploring Okuno-in, going to various smaller parts of this huge complex.
At the Torodo Hall (lantern hall) in Okuno-in, where over 10,000 lanterns light the room and at a level below, 46,000 Buddha statues are in meditation, I felt having entered a different world. One where human
Okuno-in Cemetery
Okuno-in Cemetery early morning suffering is replaced by just being alone with your soul.
I spent the entire day almost quietly and realised what my American friend had meant when he told me to visit the cemetery.
In Koyasan, you can stay at any of the 51 temples (Shukubo Temple Retreats), but they go full quickly and I hadn't managed to get a booking in one, so I was staying at a Japanese homestay. I loved the simplicity of the Futon bed room, it's minimalism highly appealing.
Next day, I headed to explore the temples of Koyasan.
I started with the Danjo Garan Sacred Temple Complex. Early morning it was all fogged out, adding to the mysticism. There is a small temple next to Danjo Garan which I really loved, as it was surrounded by a beautiful bridge and a water body.
I later attended the Fire Ceremony at the Shijishinin Temple. It is very similar to Yagna or Havan done in the Hindu religion, but much quieter with a single monk performing the ceremony and offering prayers.
I explored a small temple nearby (don't know the name) which had beautiful Torii Gates. In Japan, visitors scramble to
My guest house room
My guest house room find a Torii Gate without people, here I was at one with no one around. Japan can be crowded, but it can also be peaceful if you are a bit courageous and explore the less explored.
I visited the Kongobu-ji Temple, the head temple of the Shingon Buddhist sect.
Later on, I just walked through the Koyasan city and reached its Forest Park, the mountains and forests just invite you to walk aimlessly many times.
Next day, I headed early morning to see the daily prayers to Kobe Daishi. Walking through Okuno-in at 5am, before sunrise, listening to the chirping birds and the sounds of the stream was blissful.
Japan has a concept called Shinrin Yoku (means Forest Bathing). It's where you go into a forest, no distractions, experience the forest with all the five senses. No need to run, hike, exercise, you can even sit. Just be present, breathe, experience. That's what I was doing that early morning as I watched the sun come up. This technique is an important part of preventive healthcare in Japan and is promoted by doctors as well.
Later in the day, I tried Shojin-ryori, a Buddhist cuisine, which
Danjo Garan
Danjo Garan covered in mist is vegetarian and made from wild plants. The Koya Dofu (basically Tofu) is to die for, I have never tasted Tofu that I have liked before this.
Koyasan is the kind of place where your spirit finds its voice. It's a place which I was fortunate to experience and explore. It will remain the best memory of my travel to Japan.
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