Bullet train to Takayama

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In part due to communication difficulties while booking tickets, but also through enthusiasm for the next part of our journey, we were scheduled for a bullet train departing just after seven. Checking out our hotel at six, we displayed our shiny new JR pass at Ikebukuro station and stepped onto the platform of the JR Yamanote line towards Tokyo station without having to buy the previously obligatory ticket. We were surprised by the amount of people around at six on a Sunday; and for once, hardly a suit and tie in sight.



In Tokyo station it was easy to follow the English signs to our Shinkansen which was to take us to Nagoya. We had reserved seats the previous day at the JR ticket counter so we were traveling in one of the non-smoking reserved carriages. The train was not particularly busy and I'm sure we could have got away without booking, however, it is complimentary with the JR pass. Travel aboard the 'bullet' was smooth and quiet despite the rapid progress. Snow capped Mount Fuji was a commanding presence on our right not long after leaving Tokyo. The landscape was relentlessly urban, block after block, lined up like dominoes. It would not be until our next train that we would see much green space.



At Nagoya we had about thirty five minutes, just enough time to grab a coffee and some food, before boarding a smaller, but equally comfortable local train to Takayama. Not far out of Nagoya, our surroundings were becoming more rural with the appearance of rice paddies, their reflective floors glistening in the sun. Detached houses stood between them, some with beautifully ornate Japanese gardens. Further towards Takayama and our line weaved around and cut though hills covered with dense green foliage; the first land we had seen uncultivated by man.



Arriving in Takayama long before midday, we stored our bags at the station and followed the main road opposite the station entrance, heading in a perpendicular direction to the lines, for central Takayama. Reaching the old town, with its narrow streets of traditional wooden houses, we came across one of the markets. We picked up some buns containing Hida beef, a delicacy of this region, and also some with green pickle and pumpkin. The streets were congested with predominantly Japanese tourists, however it was a Sunday, and this was clearly a popular destination. Many of the grander old houses were laid out as they would have been hundreds of years ago and could be visited. Others were used as Sake breweries, their windows full of the tall, brightly decorated bottles. Still more were gift shops selling everything from cheap souvenirs to intricate wood and glass sculptures. Between these shops were various eateries, Hida beef in its various forms, having a dominance on the menus.



In the afternoon we caught a local bus to our Ryokan in the suburbs of the city, not far from Hida Folk Village. We were welcomed by friendly hosts who gave us a quick tour and showed us to our traditional room. We decided to eat at the Ryokan rather than travel back into town that evening. We were given a meal consisting of pickles, squid sashimi, boiled river fish, miso soup and rice, whilst kneeling on mats by a low table. Despite my best efforts I can't say I enjoyed any of the food but being my first of this style I couldn't really attribute this to the chef rather than my tastes, but we will certainly be going to bed feeling a little anxious about breakfast...



S & J

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