Tokyo: Japan’s Epicenter for New Year Celebration

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Much before a good portion of the world was to welcome in the new year, Japan rang in 2007—literally: striking an enormous bell 108 times outside of temples, with Buddhist monk chants providing the background sound.

This New Year’s Eve brought me to Tokyo—the culmination of a sweeping Japan trip—where the city’s grand temples/shrines, treasures among the skyscrapers, provided the venue for an explosion of celebratory spirit. The occasion was marked by both pure revelry and spiritual reverence that kicked off Dec. 31 and spilled over into the next days of a period known in Japan as Shogatsu.

Tokyo’s Zojoji Temple, proclaimed as the Tokugawa (shogunate dynasty of the time) family temple just before 1600, and its grand monastery complex played host to a good majority of locals (and tourists) on the actual New Year’s Eve. The actual Daiden, or main hall where the prayers are made and golden Buddhist statues housed, emanated a stoic radiance in the night, as party goers encircled it and prepared to make there first-of-the-year wishes inside; the magnificent structure was rebuilt in the early 1970s after WW II bombings turned it to rumble. The Tokyo Tower (Japan’s version of Paris’s Eiffel Tower), which was majestically aglow in the background, helped make the temple grounds the perfect setting to welcome 2007.

The scene at Zojoji was a circus of cultural practices: mochi pounding and mochi eating, as well as feasting on soba and gozoni (soup-like treats); burning 2006 good luck charms and buying 2007 good luck charms; saying last 2006 prayers at the shrine next to the temple, a practice marked each time by ceremoniously ringing a gong with a long rope. In addition, 2007 marked the year of the boar/pig and temple patrons were scurrying to get their hands on some type of representation of that symbol. Such a wide set of activities was enough to keep me and my newfound friend, David, a Japan traveler from Britain, wholly entertained/occupied leading up to midnight.

As goes New Year’s Eve parties anywhere in the world, suddenly the time was nearing to that crucial moment of new year. Together, as a crowd along with the entire nation, we counted down to zero: go (five), yon (four), san (three), ni (two), ichi (one)… akemashite omedeto gozaimasu! At the zero moment, the crowd let go of thousands of clear balloons, meant to show the city’s resolve for peace; each balloon was attached with a wish by the individuals that let the balloons go.

Right after the New Year cheer was complete mayhem, as people—like college football fans racing to tear down the goal posts after a big win—rushed up the stairs to inside the temple for the first-of-the-year prayer; then, in a somewhat more calmer fashion, they made a trip to the adjacent shrine as well for similar wishes. In general, prayer at the shrines/temples is done to bring good luck. Shrines being more for luck (good harvest, overall success, love), as outlined in the Shinto religion, and temples being more to honor the spirits of deceased loves ones and in mediate for enlightenment, as defined under Buddhist teachings.

The absolute zeal exuded by the Japanese people was astounding to witness, reminiscent of the joy/jubilation seen in young fans of a major rock group. As part of the tradition, people place small amounts of yen (5-10, the equivalent of a nickel or dime) into an offering box. Because of the sheer number of people, that box became a giant white tarp at the foot of what looked to be a kind of stage where the Monks were chanting, who ere so focused amidst the chaos, emitting chants whose resonance seemed to carry for miles. People flung their coins in the air from far and near, often launching blind shots over the heads of those in the front. Then people would bow, clap, and then pray. I watched some hold the prayer with eyes tight, deeply into the moment, while others prayed ever-briefly and then resumed the revelry of the moment. Whether religious or just cultural, the practice is deeply intertwined in Japanese society and is certainly a must for the New Year.

After prayers are made, the festivities continued as temple patrons ate, drank and were very merry. Vendors leading up to the temple sold everything from crepes to chicken on a stick to octopus-filled balls. As part of the temple/shrine festivities, people pick fortunes out of a box and tie those fortunes to what is essentially a fortune fence. They also buy special wooden placards and write wishes on them and then hang those up near the temple/shrine.

The prayers and the vendor sales seemed like they could go on all night…and it is no doubt they did. Though I have been to the similar practice one year ago, this time felt different…perhaps because I could feel in much larger Tokyo how much this New Year welcome was a nation-wide celebration and one that oh so many hold dear. Whether all those prayers and all those wishes will be answered, who knows…however, if there is one thing tangible about that moment, it is the collective sense of hope and genuine joy.

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In Japan, the New Year’s Eve party doesn’t seem to end, just continue, into the next day and, really, the day after that too. Visits to shrines/temples take center stage as people wake up on the 1st of 2007. Tied closely to those visits, is the revelry, with all the vendors and general good cheer. And shopping as well…while the department stores are closed down, the markets are thriving, capitalizing on the energy of the moment.

My travel pal and I made the day’s temple pilgrimage to the Senso-ji Temple, in Tokyo’s Asakusa ward. The journey to this temple, one of the oldest and hailed as one of the most significant, is one of extreme patience, due to the size of the crowd waiting to get in. The entrance is marked by a giant paper lantern underneath a special “Thunder Gate,” which leads to what seems like a good mile of vendors (along a street called Nakamise-dori) on the way to the temple; those vendors are a spectacle in their own right (and gracefully spice the journey to the temple), with wares that include everything from special goodie-filled gift boxes to kimonos to fine art pieces.

Once at the steps of the temple, it appeared just as magnificent as the Zojoji the day before and the crowds were just as excited to get in. The inside of the temple features a Kannon, goddess of Mercy, who bestows compassion on those that pray there.

That moment of prayer inside is nearly instant, but seems to be equally instantly purifying for most. Once prayers are said, food vendors within the temple grounds provide the perfect setting to relax with family and friends. No matter the spiritual connotations of the holiday, one thing is obvious, from the happy faces of children with parents who are with their parents, the Japanese find unity of family during this time.


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My travel pal and I awoke early the next day for a chance to see the country’s emperor up close…well, relatively up close. Jan. 2 is only the second time each year, the other being Dec. 23 (the emperor’s birthday), in which the public is allowed onto the Imperial grounds. Such an opportunity was one we could not pass up.

On the way to the Imperial Palace, we witnessed the early start of a parade, said to be a special fireman’s parade. Bands were warming up on the streets, the high school pep kind like we have in America. It was great to see the energy there, the genuine excitement in a new year.

The trip to the palace was well worth getting up and briefly waiting to get in. It was an amazing palace, with the traditional large moats and long sweeps of green. We gathered in what seemed like the palace’s central area and then Emperor Akihito, with royal family beside him, appeared (dressed in a suit, no special royal garments) and gracefully waved to the crowd, who waved back with the tiny Japanese flags that were presented to everyone upon the arrival to the palace. The fury of waving flags was a moving symbol, a true sign of the nation’s fury for their emperor.

Emperor Akihito’s message on that morning was profound: "I wish for the happiness of people in our country and peace in the world." In short, that is translated to sekai世界heiwa平和, or world peace.

Perfect words for a new year. Through all the excitement of the past few days, in a couple simple words seemed to be the true character of the 2007 pursuit.

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Photos

Ringing in New Year
Monks outside the temple Zojo-ji ring a large bell 108 times to welcome in 2007.

Prayer with a Jingle
Me ringing a gong at a Japanese shrine. Ring, then bow, then clap, then pray...prayer for good luck and great success in the New Year, part of Shinto practice.

Hungry?
Before and after, Japanese goodies are sold around the temple compound, a place that is a combination of revelry and spirtual reverence.

Tokyo Tower
Seen in the background is the Tokyo Tower, Tokyo's version of the Eiffel Tower. Illuminating the night sky, it provides the perfect background for the New Year's Eve celebration.

Senjo-ji Temple - Entrance
The "Thunder Gate" of the long path leading to the Senjo-Ji Temple, which hosts Kannon, a Buddhist goddess for compassion.

Kimonos!
Traditional Japanese outfits are all the rage at celebration time.

Visit to the Emporer
Thousands of Japanese visit the the Imperial Palace on Jan. 2, only the 2nd time all year that the palace is open to the public. The Emporer greets those in attendance and offers words of wisdom for the coming year: sekai世界heiwa平和, or world peace.

Celebrating with the Emporer
Japanese people emit shouts of excitement as they visit the Emporer on the New Year. He gracefully wishes all a Happy and blessed New Year.

Shogatsu Cask Breaking Ceremony
Geisha form a circle around a sake barrel to start the festivities of Shogatsu, or Japanese New Year.