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We have a delightful 9 hour flight to Tokyo - the food on the plane is excellent and we both sleep for most of the trip after our very early start. Everything seems 'normal' at first, easily through customs and collect our bags. It is when we leave the airport and go down the escalator in to the station that we enter another world! Not being able to read anything or understand anyone is expected, but what we weren't prepared for was the noise. Strange bingy, bongy noises from every direction! And it is relentless - when a train arrives bingy bongy music is played, when a train leaves a very shrill telephone rings and the sound of birds tweeting is randomly piped in the underground (not sure why?).
We manage to sort out our Japan rail pass and book our first train before we head off in to Tokyo to our royokan. We are staying in a traditional Japanese guest house - we have to leave our shoes at the door and wear slippers. Our room is beautiful - there are tatami mats on the floor, we sleep on futons and there are beautiful Japanese floral screens rather than
doors. Tom bangs his head a few times as the doors are low, this isn't a problem for me. The bathroom situation is also traditional Japanese style, but for us rather unconventional. There is a male/ female bathing room and the etiquette is that you go down to the bathroom in your robe (see picture!) and in a communal room quickly shower before getting in the large communal bath. We are not brave enough to try and instead opt for the private bathroom.
We venture out to get some dinner - we are limited to places with pictures of the food so we can point. We opt for a noodle bar where you order by pressing a picture of what you want on a vending machine. I choose something that looks like it has no meat. This magically sends your order to the kitchen and a few minutes later your food arrives. Bed.
We get a good nights sleep and make an early start on our first full day in Tokyo First stop is Shinjuku. We go first to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building (nicknamed Gotham City) and it is really impressive. We go up to the 45th
floor for a view of the impressive skyscrapers.
The area we are staying in is quiet so we are not prepared for the noise and volume of people when we get above ground in the shopping district. Everywhere there are huge department stores which are all connected to underground stations and then all connected to each other. It is hard to get your bearings and there are hundreds of thousands of people. Just walking around the streets and shops is fascinating - the huge screens on the buildings, the crazy fashions and even crossing the road is interesting.
We decide we need a bit of quiet so go to a shrine called Meiji-jingu. We have to get the underground to Harajuku an area where teenagers hang out at weekends and dress in crazy costumes. The shrine is busy, but more peaceful and we see a traditional wedding ceremony. We then have a quick wander around Harajuku - lots more crazy shops! Our last stop of the day is Shibuya. Again, more shops. We go to the world's busiest road crossing, and even though it is a Sunday night it is still busier than anything we have ever seen.
And there are huge screens blaring out music and birds tweeting (think that is for when traffic lights change). Before heading back to our Royokan we go for dinner in a nice bar. Very tired and with aching feet we head home.
Day 2 starts off quietly - after yesterday we are ready for something a bit more relaxing. We start the day in Asakusa, the supposed traditional area of the city. There is a beautiful shrine which we walk around, but apart from that all we can see are shops and amusement arcades. We have a quick lunch - I again point at something that has no meat, Tom is more adventurous. He has chosen a dish that looks like it has beef or pork in - he is surprised when it arrives and it is kidney. He picks out the vegetables from around it instead and shares my miso soup. We spend about an hour wandering around then a quick stop in 'Mister Donuts' - after not eating all of our lunch we are a bit snacky so we stock up on donuts!
Next stop, Ginza, central Tokyo. This is another commercial district, but is less
chaotic and pleasant to walk around. We go to the Sony building - about 10 floors of gadgets to play with. Tom likes the headphones - he has to try on all of them and there are about 50 different pairs! We wander round some more and look at the snazzy shops and then it's back on the underground to Roppongi.
This is the nightlife and entertainment area of the city and it doesn't disappoint! First of all we have a wander round some more shopping malls/ skyscrapers/ hotels that all merge in to one and then Tom makes a very, very exciting discovery! He goes to the toilet and is gone for about 30 minutes. The toilets have all sorts of gadgets on them - you can play a flushing sound while you go to hide any embarrassing noises, there is a built in bidet with controls for the temperature and pressure, a deodorizing button .... all very entertaining. And then there are the hand driers ... hours of fun! And, of course, the whole experience is accompanied by a symphony of bingy bongy noises and flashing lights.
We decide to head home, but on our
Shibuya
The worlds busiest crossing ? way to the station we spot a Karaoke bar! We get a private room, have drinks delivered and belt out some tunes! We book in for an hour but end up staying 2 because it is so much fun! Tom starts with Lemon (U2) - an ambitious opening and I am dreadful (except for Kate Bush songs!). A bit drunk, we get a burger and go home.
The next morning it is up early for the 9.33am train to Hiroshima.
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