Kyoto, Planet of the Apes

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I know what you are thinking: 'what? apes in kyoto?' well, in truth, not apes. but monkeys!

Today I got to visit Iwatayama Monkey Park, just on the western outskirts of Kyoto. . The monkey park, or monkey mountain as I like to call it, is a small mountain full of wild (quasi-wild, really) monkeys. They are not caged or kept on the mountain in anyway, the only fences that are present are to keep humans out except during the park's open hours. Once you pay the entrance fee, 4 or 500Yen, you make your way up the mountain- which is about a 15-30 minute climb up steps or paved pathway. Most of my way up was filled with anticipation and slight disappointment that I was not knee-high in monkeys yet but I had only to wait. Finally I got near the top and as I passed a few benches, I noticed two monkeys hanging out on them. They weren't doing much, so I took a few pictures and continued on- once at the top is where the fun began.

At the summit is clearing space with monkeys EVERYWHERE- some are playing in the rocks, others are sleeping, many of them are picking at the fur of their loved ones, and some are just hanging out, looking around. The path I was on had lots of monkeys on it and I admit that I was a little nervous to approach them. Before you buy your ticket is a sign that says "Do not feed monkeys from outside the cage (I'll explain). Do not touch the monkeys. Do not stare at the monkeys." The cage is a little room at the summit, next to the clearing, where you can rest, buy a drink or snack for yourself, or buy a bag of peanuts or apples to feed the monkeys with (from INSIDE the cage). This was my favorite part, the cage. At this park, it is not the animals that are in the cage- it is the humans. It was great.

I walked up to the clearing a bit nervous that I had accidentally walked up the wrong path and that I wasn't supposed to be this close to the monkeys, because I could clearly see people inside the cage/hut. The man inside saw me and opened the door and said Konichiwa and welcomed me in. I carefully stepped over the monkeys, not staring at any in the eyes, and walked inside. It turns out the only people in the whole park were me and the two people who work in the hut. I put my stuff down and watched the monkeys for a bit. Several hung on the cage, waiting to be fed, but most paid no attention and went about their business. I bought a bag of chopped apples and began to feed the monkeys- it was awesome. I would reach out to the fence with an apple in my hand and the monkey would reach in, through the fence, and pick up the apple and eat it. This may seem like a simple thing to be so entertain but it was great! I got to choose with monkeys to feed, and they often fought over my attention- the little ones often getting pushed out of the way by the older ones and starting loud screaming matches. I'm so popular with the monkeys. and by me, I mean my apples. There was even a mother monkey, holding a nursing baby, hanging on the fence, I fed this one often because the baby looked like a little stuffed animal.

I am going to rant about my fascination with monkeys now. A few months ago I read about a recent development in which monkeys were discovered, in some remote jungle somewhere, to have taken sticks, sharpened them, and used them as spears to hunt with. Excuse me, but didn't I once learn that what distinguished us mighty and special humans from them lowly animals is that we had the ability to make tools? oh yeah, and our opposable thumbs. well, so much for that. And watching these monkeys only proved this to me further- it was great to what their eyes move around, it was so obvious that they were thinking full conscious thoughts. Maybe not algebra or trigonometry, but Im not so convinced that knowing those proves anything anyway. They would watch my hand as it moved toward the bag and they would get closer. One of the monkeys started banging on the fence, making a loud noise, when I walked away from him to feed someone else. He stopped banging when I looked at him-learned behavior or conscious thought? I don't know.

I ran out of apples and most of the monkeys went back to their own business and I eventually got brave enough to walk around outside with them. I asked the people working, just to make sure (and also, subtly, to make sure they were keeping an eye on me so I wouldn't do anything stupid- which they were anyway). I walked around, getting really close to them- most of them barely even lifted their heads to look at me. At one point, one of the larger ones was walking right towards me and I started to get a bit nervous- but he walked right by me like he didn't even notice me, he must of had a meeting at the other side of the clearing that he was late to. Or maybe it was math class...

Then the man from the store came out, motioning to me the bucket he was holding and said 'feeding time'. very exciting. Im not sure exactly what he was feeding them- looked like seeds of some kind- but he walked around the clearing, through handfulls of this stuff and the monkeys went... ape. (thank you, thank you. I'm here all week. and for the next 5 weeks). They ran around and many fights erupted over the food- I saw monkeys biting each other and screaming at each other and chasing each other around. it was fantastic- this is when he offered to take a picture of me with them- see picture below. or above. wherever the picture is.

A few minutes later three people (and a baby) from Portland, Oregon arrived. I chatted with them for a bit and then parted ways with the monkeys.

Next I walked down to the town at the base of the mountain- but there wasnt too much to do except for spend money, which didnt seem like a great idea. There was a really big river that you have to cross to get to the mountain and a really nice path along side it, so I decided to walk along the path for a bit. Eventually I got to a map (no english= but a picture of a river is pretty universal), which showed some paths that went up the mountain (different mountain, lots of them. many yamas) so I took a path up the mountain, eventually I got to a fork with an english sign that said towards the summit- which I took. it was a great view but by the time I was done with the hike in this really humid weather, I had sweated completely through my shirt and this was not my last stop of the day. With no choice, I trotted back down the mountain and continued on (though smelly, I was).

Here is short video I took of the path I was hiking on (sorry about the quality, blame youtube, not me):

If that doesn't work, click here to see it on youtube:

On the bus, I got a REALLY dirty look from some woman, I think it was because I smelled bad. What was I supposed to do?

Next I went to Fushimi-Inara Shrine, which is pretty famous. If you have ever seen Memoirs of A Geisha (which I havent), apparently there is a seen of the main character running through hundreds of red gates- well that is Fushimi-Inara. I think it would have been better if I had more energy, I was alittle bit drained from my hike but it was very pretty- its basically TONS of those red gates, which lead you through a really nice walk in the woods- to do the whole thing would be a long walk but there are many paths to take, it crosses over itself alot, and I took a shorter one (this may be one of the many things that would probably be better with someone else also).

Before I boarded the train back, I wanted some early dinner and stopped for some sushi. For any vegetarians or kosher-only's interested in trying sushi, I strongly suggest, what this place called, Inara Sushi. Im not sure if thats a universal name, but its basically rice wrapped in a tufo-based pocket but the tofu is not what you are thinking (unless you happen to know this kind already)- its cooked in some kind of sweet sauce and takes like candy.

Thats it for now and this will be my last night in Kyoto and at Judd's dorm. Tomorrow I will visit Himeji-Jo (one of the many UNESCO World Heritage Sites that are in Kyoto and this area) and spend the night in Kobe, which is where I will leave from on Friday morning around noon (which is 11pm thursday night for you new jerseyans. shira and yoli, you are on your own with that math).

I spoke briefly with Eli (my roomate for the past new years who I am meeting in Beijing) and our plans have been modified. We will spend a couple days in Beijing then make our way towards Xi'an (stopping along the way, I think). From there, a 28 hour train ride may be in order to Guilin and Yangshou in the South of China. I think Eli has some ideas for that area, and then we must make our way back to shanghai, he leaves on the 26th and then I have week before I leave on Aug 2nd. But you'll here from me before then

japanese phrase of the day:

"mashi mashi" :Not sure of exact translation, but its how people here answer their cell phones. Try it next time you get a call, if the person calling happens to be Japanese, they will know you are hip.

~mark

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Comments

[Frankie]

You know, when I went to Fushimia Inari, I thought of how it'd be nice to walk through it with someone else also. Haha. I got lost there when I went, and spent several hours wandering around trying to find the entrance again. Were you planning on going there, or did you go on my suggestion? ----- I want there to be a monkey petting place here in NJ. And what you said about monkeys having conscious thoughts made me really excited. I hope they one day learn how to understand monkeys and learn what they think. (I bet they think humans are pretty awful creatures, because we're always using up resources and stuff)