Glimpses of a Geisha

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On my second visit to Japan, all I wanted was to see a Geisha. A Geisha is right up there for me on a mystical level, with unicorns. Well, maybe not quite that mystical. But they do represent something mysterious and fascinating. The Geisha is a dying tradition, with only 1,200 to 2,000 remaining in modern Japan.

I always imagined a geisha to be a beautiful, fragile, soft creature, forced into a life of discipline, somewhat like slavery. I wonder where I got that idea from (insert Memoirs of a Geisha here)!

It is hard to picture their place in the modern world. The Geisha is a historical figure, that is somehow still tangible and continuing to survive in the unique environment that makes Japan so different, as the Japanese continue to honour their traditions and history.

I made it my mission on a trip to Kyoto to track down one of these fantastical women. After all, Kyoto, is the heart and soul of the tradition. It is the old capital of Japan, so it is no surprise that it should sustain one of the highest remaining portions of the estimated Geisha population.

This was my second time to Japan, but first to Kyoto. It is a beautiful city with an old elegance, and timeliness that is in stark contrast to the modern metropolis of Tokyo. It is exceptionally beautiful during spring when the cherry blossums are blooming.

I happened to be there in early September, just before the blossums were due to bloom. I meandered the narrow cobblestone streets for seven days straight, hoping to see a Geisha. I specifically haunted the Gion region, which is the heart of the old district, and is made up of dozens of narrow tree lined lanes filled with tiny bars and restaurants. This is where I had the highest probability of a successful sighting. It is the entertainment district of Kyoto, and Geisha are, after all, entertainers.

It was here that I caught a glimpse of a Maiko, ducking out of a doorway, and trottering down the laneway in her wooden slippers and kimono. The Maiko are apprentice Geisha, and this particular one was fresh faced and make up free, but sporting the obvious sweeping hair style of the Maiko. I was thrilled, some success at last!

However, this was to be my one and only street sighting. It was not until the second last night in Kyoto that I was to strike the jackpot. While I had been exploring the city, my father, Ray, who is an antique dealer, had been doing business with many of the Japanese dealers in Kyoto. Ray bought two high quality pieces from one of the biggest dealers in the city (Mr K). As a show of thanks Mr K offered to treat us both to dinner.

We dined in the private backroom of a busy Gion restaurant. Mr Ks friend, the chef and owner, made us a special meal, which we watched him prepare from the sushi bar. The meal was special, completely different from the Japanese we get in the Western world. We were served an array of small dishes, as is the tradition, including a delicacy of rare mushrooms, soaked in a broth that is poured from a teapot and drunk.

After dinner, Mr K invited us to join him for a drink. The bar we went to was tiny, it could literally seat ten people. It is common for quality to overide quantity in Japan.

Mr K let us know that he was expecting a friend to join us and I almost fell off my bar stool when a Geisha walked into the room. I was completely star struck. She introduced herself as Kako and sat between me and Ray. She ordered some champagne, while I tried not to stare. She was perfect! She had big dark eyes, dramatically emphasised by the traditional makeup she wore, and her hair was swept up in the most elaborate ornament I have ever seen. She wore a colourful kimono of the highest quality.

Kako spoke english very well and had a soft, sweet voice. She giggled a lot, but in a charming way. She bubbled with an outward radiance, I loved her perfect skin and shining eyes, and her token heart shaped lips. Kako had been trained to charm, and according to Mr K, she was one of the best. She grabbed a strand of my blonde hair and said I was just like a doll.

We chatted for about an hour (this would have cost Mr K around $2000, no joke). Kako explained that because she was so successful she had been able to leave her apprentice Geisha house at a young age and take over her own household. She had staff who assisted with her wardrobe and makeup everyday, and said she worked seven days a week, and loved it. She had met many famous people, including former Australia prime minister John Howard, who she said was a very nice man.

I alluded to the life portrayed in 'Memoirs' and she was quick to scoff at the book, saying that now days becoming a Geisha is a choice. Kako said she was determined to become a Geisha since she was a little girl, it was all that she had ever wanted to do.

When it was time to part, we hugged and she gave me a sticker with her name on it in kanji, to remember her by. How could I forget! Honestly, Kako was all I expected a Geisha to be, and more. She was completely alluring, charming and beautiful. This was without a doubt one of the most memorable travel experiences that I have ever had.

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