Leaving Togeans


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Asia » Indonesia » Sulawesi » Togean Islands
July 28th 2011
Published: September 2nd 2011
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Leaving the Togean's was the most difficult of leaving and of the places I've been in Malaysia and Indonesia by a long way. So I realised I would actually have to leave Sulawesi so couldn't just go back and stay there forever, if it was easy ish to get back I probably would just go straight back. But this meant a lot of travelling.
After Puddin spent an hour trying to get me to stay the everyone waiting to see if I would be getting on the boat or not they decided to start loading the boat up Puddin hid my bag, Tommi refused to load my other bag on the boat which in the end I did then it got taken back off. But finally about an hour an half after we were supposed to leave we set off to Wakai for the one hour trip the last time. After spending about an hour on Wakai the boat departed to Ampana for the four to five hour trip. While most people from the hostel started on deck sunbathing, Teteng and myself fell asleep underneath for most of it but it was so hot. Arriving in Ampana around three there was much debate and confusion on how we were getting to Palu in the end we took a night bus that left at six ish and was relatively comfortable (ish). So that gave us time to go on the internet, have dinner and buy gifts for Teteng and her Mum.
The bus trip was relatively uneventful no chickens, lots of rice, smoking men, bumpy and windy but it arrived in Palu around six in the morning which was great as it was becoming uncomfortable. It was then a mission to get to the airport with the taxi refusing to take us our only option was bemo that turned out to be the most expensive bemo ever taken! Ever! But we arrived at the airport and I was able to get a flight for 420800 to Makassar leaving at 1435. Great now just eight hours sat around a n airport that has nothing in it to wait for my flight.
Arriving in Makassar I needed to make my way to the Pelni harbour ready for the boat to Maumere leaving around midnight. I managed to get an Ojeck to take me for 40000 after much debate. But sitting on a scooter with two bags for 22km on a bumpy road isn't very easy or advisable. It was a long 22km. But he did take me directly there which I am forever greatful for as some of the people I've spoken to it had taken four attempts to get there. At the port I found the information desk where the police ended up helping me as the guy spoke no English and my Indonesian is limited, plus I'm white so it quickly attracts there attention. It took an hour to get my ticket in economy and I spent the rest of the evening in the police office watching tv. They bought me dinner, snacks, water, assorted me to the toilet so I didn't have to pay, took me to get my hand stamped and ticket for the boat before everyone else and took me through the gate and on to the boat before everyone else so I could find a bed! They were so friendly. Getting on the boat I soon realised economy meant sleep anyway so I found a bed surprisingly as most People slept on the floor everywhere. But everyone just stared at me, there was no where to lock my bags up so I could go get a wash and I knew theft was a problem so I couldn't just leave my bags unattended and you can obviously smoke in economy. After travelling so much and sleeping on a bus last night the last thing I wanted to do was sleep in the same sweaty clothes again and not get washed. Plus I figured if I moved something would get stolen and it would probably be worth more than the 165000 it cost to upgrade to second class. So I collected my stuff up still with everyone staring and went to upgrade my ticket. I got a shared female cabin, a locker, comfortable bed and for the first time in over two weeks I could take a shower. Even though the shower had no spray and was cold water it was the best shower I have ever had in my life! I actually feel like I have got some dirty off my skin although it probably won't all come off while ever I an in Indonesia, it is physically impossible to be clean here. Arriving in Maumere was some what crazy, we arrived about two hours later than scheduled but I'm not sure if that was due to us departing late as I fell asleep a soon a my head hit the pillow and that was before we departed Makassar. This meant we arrived in the dark, trying to fight my way through hundreds of people offering my everything from cars to Moni to hotel rooms and then just wanting to pinch me was hard work. I eventually gave up on my attempt to walk to the hostel I had booked and took up the offer of an Ojek but siting on a scooter with one bag on your front and one on your back isn't easy, especially when the police are doing traffic control and everyone the people waiting has a scooter.
Finally I arrived at Gardiner hotel which is really nice, has western toilets, a shower and a Mandi. But maybe I've been here too long now but I chose the Mandi over the shower as the water pressure was poor and found it strange using a western toilet! Anyway soon after arriving a French guy asked me if I wanted to go eat dinner. We tried a cafe but they had run out of rice ang didn't have noodles so we headed to the street stalls and are satay with rice a local favourite. We then headed back to the hotel and relaxed for a but before bed ready for an early start in the morning to go to Moni.

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