Moni and the ladies


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Asia » Indonesia » Flores » Moni
July 30th 2011
Published: September 2nd 2011
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I got up early in time for the bus at eight to Moni three hours away (ish), after having breakfast I asked the guy at the hotel about an Ojek and he told me the guy across the road would be able to take me, he spoke with him presuming he told him where I was going and with him not asking I was surprised when I arrived at the airport. But after a bit of confusion he understood where I wanted to go and took me to where the minibuses depart for Moni. I was happily greeted by half a dozen men trying to get me to take their minibus after choosing one I sat in the bus about an hour until it had just a few more people then a few more. Than it was made for with a couple hanging out of the door and on the roof but enough room to pick up more en route. Arriving in Moni it was easy to find a hostel and I had the most comfortable bed I have slept in in a very long time, a shower but I chose to use the Mandi as water pressure was bad and a western toilet a luxury.
Moni is a cute little village set in rice paddies and they love to sell you there weaving! I took a walk through the rice paddies and then in the opposite direction to the waterfall. Its small ish and has tiny 'hot pools' there but only enough to splash yourself with. On the way I met a lady called Jenny a village local and on the way back I stopped by her house and she showed me her weaving. Very adamant I should only buy from her, her prices were high so I wanted to look around before I bought anything. She also told me about the local dancing at night which I hoped to go to. I arranged a ojek hire for the whole day tomorrow then went out for dinner with a couple of guys I met on my walk.
It was an early start in Moni having to get up at four to take an ojek to Kelimutu to see the three lakes for sunrise apparently the best time to see them. The lakes are sacred and the locals believe the soles of the young go to one, the old another and the bad another. It amazed me how Charlie my driver who I would soon learn didn't speak one word of English managed to drive there as it was pitch black with heavy fog. But we got there in one piece just as it started to really rain. My rain coat was on the bed. Asking the ladies selling drinks, snacks and weaving if they had an umbrella or something they brought out traditional sarongs. I wanted to buy one anyway so I bought a black and blue one but I found it very funny when after when the umbrella came out and she tried to charge me to hire it! Thats all I wanted in the first place. I then walked the ten minute walk to the viewing area in the dark through the bushes. Arriving i quickly realised there wasn't going to be a sunrise it was thick with fog! We did get a short glimpse of the green and black lakes but not the famous spectacular views! I did however find out why Sumba's traditional houses made out of straw and grass and take around three to four months to make cost so much. They have to kill a pig every day while it is been made and eat it. Mostly Indonesians eat fish or tofu as it is cheap. I arrived back at the hostel about nine after giving up on seeing the lakes and taking photos on the way back. After breakfast and a short nap I went back to Jenny's house who I had met yesterday and had invited me for lunch. She again tried to sell me things but then she showed me how to cook fish with traditional spices and we had omelette, fish, rice and veggie soup for lunch. Her auntie wanted to give me a massage but she looked too fragile to be doing it so I declined.
After lunch Charlie drove me to Ngella on a very bad, bumpy, rocky road, by fast the worst road I have ever been on we both laughed and sighed with relief when we arrived there and back to Moni. The journey was only 22km but took well over an hour each way.
On the way there we stopped off to see the traditional houses and how they do the weaving before arriving at Ngella. Ngella if a beautiful, tiny village high in the mountains with views over the sea and high cliffs. Within minutes of arriving a lady called Mama Mia greeted me grabbed my hand and took me to her house. Nor she or her family spoke one word of English and my Indonesian is limited to get me by with directions and buying things. But either they didn't understand this or I was very good at bluffing that I understood what they were saying as I was there about three hours! Most of the time I laughed and smiled, nodded and said tidak and ye when I thought I should and guessed an answer when I thought they wanted more. Charlie found me and found it all quite amusing but wasnt able to translate anything. The lovely lady then took us for a walk around the village meeting everyone and taking lots of photos she demanded I take continuously. I saw more traditional weaving and houses but it was so funny they even offered me coffee with bread for dipping. I've never had I coffee in my life and the first one I have is from a sachet! After going back to her house I was hoping Charlie would say lets go soon but know such luck, I think they offered us dinner and I later found out a homestay for the night. After another half hour or so Mama Mia got up to take me on another walk and I nearly died when Charlie got on his scooter I wasn't sure what I had agreed to! But after saying hello and taking more photos of the locals I found Charlie waiting for me further down the village. I breathed! The ride back was just as hard work as the ride there and I was greatful he was a fantastic driver even if he couldn't speak English, we got back just before sunset. That was when I found out they thought I was staying the night as Charlie had texted his sister and told her.
After relaxing for an hour I went back over to Jenny's house where I met up with another couple and we were taken to see the local dancing. To watch the dancing it costs 50000 but the group give each local 5000 back at christmas for each guest they took. There were four young boys and many ladies who sang about half a dozen songs and danced. The dances included a war dance, dance for Kelimutu and a dance with bamboo sticks. All very good.


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