Rantepao (5-9 Apr 15)

---

And so after the relatively brief arrival and layover at Southwest Sulawesi's capital Makassar, it was time to get more serious and start the arduous journey northwards through the rather inhospitable terrain of the inner regions of the island. This was also something that had played on my mind ever since I started planning for this Sulawesi trip. I have, of course, not forgotten the painful, cigarette smoke-filled 18h intra-Sumatra journey from Bukittingi to Parapet, and reading about others' experiences with the difficult bus journeys in Sulawesi, I tried to prepare myself for the worst.

This 9h first leg from Makassar to Rantepao in the Tana Toraja ("Land of the Heavenly Kings") turned out to be pretty easy after all. It was a nice, big air-conditioned bus with comfy seats and most importantly, no smoking, which the locals actually adhered too! But I've also read that this was indeed supposed to be the easiest leg of a cross-Sulawesi excursion, since the roads for this part are relatively well-sealed. Apparently it gets progressively worse as one heads deeper into the hinterland. Not something I'm looking forward to, but I suppose a necessary challenge in these parts, and a bridge that I'll cross when I get to it.

Anyway, back to Rantepao itself, pretty much the recommended base for exploring the region. Pretty much a small town with just a couple of cris-crossing streets, it provided just the required amenities for what turned out to be a relatively long stay of four nights here for me. Torajan culture is known for their obsession with death, and their elaborate funeral ceremonies, and cliff-face graves watched over by dozens of intricately-carved effigies. Although this was the low season for funerals (??), apparently there was indeed at least one going on during my stay. However, as usual I tried to save money on the guide required to bring me to one, and wondered whether I could just find it myself and show up! This was, unsurprisingly of course, in vain...

Stayed at Wisma Maria I.

---

Photos

The distinctive Torajan Tongkonan
Symbol of The Land of the Heavenly Kings (Toraja)

Lemo Effigies
Dozens stand watch over the surrounding graves of this site, supposedly reserved only for past chieftain and his relatives.

Torajan Rice Terraces
They can almost hold their own against their arguably more renowned counterparts that I've visited in Banaue in Northern Philippines, and Yuanyang, Southern China.

Tattiest Notes in the World
I'm reminded of a Bloomberg article I read recently about some armed Indonesian central bank officials having to lug strongboxes full of new notes for exchange with the locals living in the remotest parts of the country.
http://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2015-03-25/a-road-trip-into-the-heart-of-borneo-with-385-000-cash

Surprisingly pleasant sea-side lunch break on the road to Rantepao
The ikan bakar (grilled fish) was great.

Makale
The provincial administrative centre. Dusk was falling as my bus bypassed it to the busier Rantepao slightly further north.

Wisma Maria I
And its surprisingly pleasant central garden.

Objek Wisata
The famous cliff face graves of the death-obsessed region. I'm reminded of the hanging coffins of Sagada in the Cordilleras in Northern Philippines.

Underaged Rider Alert!
A common sight especially in about the smaller towns in the country. I still remember helmet-less kids even younger than this guy free-wheeling down the slopes near Mount Bromo in East Java.

Torajan Coffee
Supposedly a specialty. I certainly had my fill during my stay here.