A photo for my brother Steve

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Life at G-land has been so relaxing and yet at the same time it can be a bit testing. Living with so many surfers can put you under a bit of pressure. When you head out to surf the break, many of the guys are out with you and if you have a bad session, well, people know about it. It can make you feel a little uneasy. On the other hand though, if you have a memorable session and you score a couple of good waves and everybody's watching, you feel ten feet tall. It’s all a bit macho but I must admit, I like it ;-)

In the late afternoons we often crowd around the viewing deck on the edge of the reef and share a few beers and watch the sun go down. It’s a really good atmosphere amongst the guys here…there’s a real comradery. There are guys from all over the world…Brazil, Aus, NZ, Hawaii, Florida, France. Everyone’s got such different experiences and stories and there’s a lot of respect between everybody. I think that’s been one of the big surprises I’ve found with the place.

One of the guys I’ve befriended here is an old salty sea-dog-of-a-man called John who is the resident photographer here at G-land. His day job involves him heading out to the edge of the break in a zodiac and shooting guys surfing all day. Tough hey! He sells the pics to us surfers to keep himself living the dream. Lucky bastard gets to live at G-land and yes, he surfs too. Luckily he snapped a pic of me surfing at Money Trees and I got a copy off him today. I’m so stoked as previously I've been really unlucky with photos. Steve, this one's for you bro. We had some brilliant waves that day. Incidentally, I got my black eye about 20 minutes after the shot was taken.

It’s going to be very hard to leave this place. I’ve only got one more week to go.

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Photos

Crazy Brazilians
The Brazilian guys were doing capouera headstands on the reef for Stefan and Miles (taking the photos).

Rog midway through a bottom turn at Money Trees
I wish you were here Steve. We scored some great waves that day.

The guys leaving for Bali
Antony and my New Zealand mates are in the back of the truck.

Only in Indo
Check out the new design vehicle's in use here on Java. I think some sort of design award is in order!

Comments

[Tash]

Finally - I see you surfin!
Wow Rog, you really do look like a pro surfin - tis great to see a pic of you catching a wave. Your travels sound amazing - keep em coming! Big hugs Tash and Paul xxx

[Anthony]

green with envy
I sat on that lookout about 6.5 years ago when I stayed in the middle of Grajagan bay in some forestry department huts they rent out dirt cheap. Got some nice waves on the beach break out the front and walked about 6 hours along the beach and through the jungle in to G-Land one day. No chance of surfing it, although it was flat anyway and we had to get a speedboat to take us back across the bay cos the sun was going down not long after we arrived. That's a cool photo for the album.

[Fulvio]

Not fair !!
Melquiades - Do I have permission to use the surf pic of you as my desktop wallpaper ? (Others will think we're batting for the other team but let them think what they want, we know the truth).

[sar]

Hey mate its still nice and wet here in londres and i am loving the pics and great stories. Living vicariously thru you...keep living your dream matey x

[anonymous]

I really look forward to your posts Rog! Sounds an amazing trip so far and I've been wishing I was there with you. London's cold and wet (suprise?!) but the weddings in a week and half so that's all very exciting. Miss you loads. xxx

[Steve]

Looks like the surfing has gone up a couple of notches Roge. The good Karma continues hey :)

[helene "the froggy"]

one word....
The one word that came to my mouth when i watch the famous picture... "PUTAIN"!!!!!! ... really frustating when you are at work!!!

[Diego]

impressed
have just finished reading all your travel blogs, sounds like you've had an unbelievable time in some special places. looking forward to a spanish conversation with you when you get back to londonium, i assume it's polished up since barcelona??!