Learning to Surf in Batu Karas, Java

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This isn't a very recent trip - but it's from last year so any info you glean from it will still be relevent. However as I wanted to try and get started with the ol' travel blog, and to write my first article for South East Asia Backpacker magazine (www.southeastasiabackpacker.com) I thought I'd combine the two..ahem, let me begin:

Surfing for Beginners

My friend has a theory as to why surf spots become popular beach destinations: the barraging waves create an aesthetically pleasing rugged coastline; a constant breeze keeps the endurances of a beaming sun bearable; the churning of the waves release a positive energy into the surrounding environment (something to do with hippy talk about ions), and the surfing community are generally a laid back, well meaning folk. However, I was not heading to Batu Karas, on the South West of Java, for any of these pleasant features. I was heading there for one thing: to surf!

When most people think of learning to surf in Indonesia, the once idyllic isle of Bali springs to mind. However, I wasn't in Bali. I was in Java, an island populated with over 130 million and with Jakarta as its busy, polluted capital city. Asides from being 10839 km from Bali, neither was I keen on the idea of sharing the waves with a 100 other novices. So when I read about the small fishing village of Batu Karas in my well thumbed guide book - cheaper and much more off the tourist trail - it sounded like the ideal spot to make my surfing foray.

To reach Batu Karas I headed to Pangandaran (a popular beach resort for vacationing and surfing Javans). There I attempted to wait for a public bus to Batu Karas village, but after 10 minutes of badgering from ojek (motorbike taxi) drivers and realising that I may be waiting for some time, I chose to pay for a ride on the back of a motorbike. After a helmet had been found for me - at my insistance - my hefty bag was lodged between the driver’s legs and off we set. As the driver ignored my delicate handling and wrapped my hands tighter around his paunch, and the wind whipped under my helmet (which was attempting to take flight) I took in the dazzling scenery, the green river and smokey scent of barbeques, and felt truly excited to be whizzing towards Batu Karas.


Once in the village, my accommodation of choice was Java Cove, a hotel recently converted by a very amicable Aussie couple who prior had organized surfing tours around Indonesia. It wasn’t the very cheapest place around, but one of the more economical ground floor rooms, a stone’s throw away from the beach, was budget enough for me. Plus, the promise of free tea and coffee every morning, and a proper flushing toilet was enough to seal the deal.

There’s no time like the present - and not much else to do in Batu Karas - so the first morning I was up at 6:30am. A flask of hot water accompanied by tea bags and Javan coffee had silently appeared on my porch, so with this I revved myself up for a day of hitting the waves. People wake early in Batu Karas and the sea was already dotted with surfers. On the beach I found my new friend and instructor, Jack. He chose me a long board, set it on the sand and roughly pushed me from behind. ‘A little gruff’ I thought, but it turned out he was determining which foot I landed on. I’m left handed and left foot dominated which therefore makes me ‘goofy footed’ or some such pleasing term. Once we’d run through the initial procedure of how to paddle and jump up onto to the board, my leash was secured around my ankle (first rule for novice surfers - always secure the leash AS TIGHT AS POSSIBLE) and it was into the water for my first encounter with the Indian Ocean.

Surfing is not fun. Well, that was my conclusion after my first 2 hours with a surf board. Of course, what I was doing would not generally be described as surfing. I was definitely glad to have a strong man to keep pushing my board and I back into the waves after I’d yet again tumbled off. It was also handy to be told when to start paddling and when to jump up - not that i always followed this advice. More to the point, having an ‘instructor’ was more motivating than anything, although Jack didn’t seem as pleased as I was when I managed to ride my board all the way to the shore - admittedly I was still lying down and was actually body surfing, but it felt good all the same.

That evening, after emptying a mound of black sand onto my bathroom floor, and watching a couple of sea creatures scuttle away (just where had they been stowing themselves in my bikini bottoms?!) I had what I felt to be a well deserved meal of fish curry at the local warung. Had I enjoyed the day? It was OK, if you enjoy collecting water up your nose. But Rome wasn’t built in a day and I was determined that I would not give up!

In the following days I found it wasn’t so easy to get my board out in to the water once I was alone without an instructor. Sometimes I’d waste lengthy periods wading against the current, balancing my board on my head and trying not to get pushed 10 steps back towards the shore, whilst others seemingly skipped past me towards the waves with their boards under their arms. When I tried to paddle out, it was still as difficult. Whilst I seemed to be paddling on the spot and not getting any closer, the local boys - some as young as 7 - passed me repeatedly as they lithely cut through the water then cruised past again on their boards doing hand stands (well almost). I didn’t know what these local kids were shouting to each other but I felt sure they were laughing at me. I also knew they were adept enough for it not to be a mistake when their passing boards sprayed me with water. Ho ho, how I laughed at that little trick. That’s not to say I encountered any hostility. It’s not like that scene in Point Break where Keanu Reeves gets punched in the face for crowding in on the local’s waves. I was treated with an easy acceptance and often surfers took it upon themselves to offer me a few inside tips: “Paddle, paddle!!! Stand up, stand up!!!!” - Puh, easy said when you’re a pro.



So what else is there to do in Batu Karas?

Well not really much in the way of activities. Some Javans from nearby cities to come for weekends and to play in the surf, but most foreign tourists come for the surfing and relaxed mood. And let me tell you, Batu Karas seemed very relaxed. I witnessed 3 year olds toddling off into the surf to play unattended, and 5 year olds running out to the sea, doing a spot of body boarding and then running off home again without an adult in sight.

When taking time off from their water activities, most surfers will use the time to rest their muscles reading or chatting to locals in one of the warungs (cafes). There’s a friendly local crew in Batu Karas, most of who are surfers and will also offer their services as your instructor, tour guide or ojek driver. In the evening the warungs are the place to mingle over dinner with locals and tourists alike. There’s no need to take your wallet either. Guests just note down everything they have in a little book on the counter then pay it off before they leave the village - I said it’s relaxed! However don’t expect to party hard in Batu Karas. Being on a Muslim island, the only alcohol available is beer (I was disappointed to discover that a ‘cocktail’ offered to me by the bargirl at my hotel was in fact a sweet, weak alchopop) and as Batu Karas is a place that rises and falls with the sun, by 10pm it’s pitch black and most people are inside. If you do want a change of scenery for the day, it’s a great place to hire a bike off a local and have a general cruise around, taking in the village sights and smells. Jack -- My friend, surfing instructor, taxi and tour guide did take me off to visit some other little sites for the day. The best of which was ‘Green Canyon’ a river valley named for its emerald hue. A boat will take you into the mysterious caves where you can swim, jump off a rock, and take a massage under the strong rushing streams - but hold on to your swim wear. If you go at the right time of year (a couple of months either side of June) it may appear as though some of the rocks are moving but it is in fact thousands of tiny swarming crabs. Don’t worry, they’re too tiny to nip and you can grab them by the handful and watch them overflow, drop into the water and swim off like something from an Indiana Jones film. On the way back from the canyon we passed over the rickety bamboo bridge (which also felt like an Indiana set design) and Jack stopped to order me a bucket of fresh oysters from the oyster farm which were kindly prepared for me that evening at the local warung, and on which I accidentally broke my friend’s favourite trusty pen knife.

It was over a week after I’d checked into Java Cove that I eventually checked out. I was still a surfing novice but I knew a long board from a short board (long boards are longer, short boards are shorter) and I knew how to fall into the water with out getting hit in the face by my board (most of the time). My upper arms were a little more defined and I’d also definitely caught a proper wave at least once, and had experienced the pleasure of the wind in my hair and a potent life force powering me towards the shore. It was the memory of this thrill that would encourage me to keep surfing spots (with beginner friendly waves) on my travel itinerary. But it was the barraging of waves against a rugged coastline; a constant breeze that kept the endurances of the beaming sun bearable; the positive energy released by churning waves; and the laid back, amicable community that will keep Batu Karas as one of my favourite travel spots in Southeast Asia.

Batu Karas Surfing Info:

BK has a year round right hand break and waves small and constant enough to accommodate beginners but also big enough to keep experienced surfers entertained.

Last year, surf boards cost around 80,000rp to hire a day. A day’s lessons (about 4-5 hours in total) made it up to 150,000.

Batu Karas may only be small, but has a large handful of locals able to serve as your tour guide, taxi, or most importantly…surf teacher.

To reach Batu Karas it’s easiest to take a bus to Pangandaran (about 9 hours from Jakarta) and then hire an ojek

There’s only a few small convenience shops and the local warungs for food. Neither are there banks or ATMs, so best to have all your supplies before hand. However there are a couple of surf shops. Also a fruit market can be reached by bike.

Learning to Surf tips from a female novice:
• Be prepared to swallow a lot of sea water, endure many false starts, be churned around like a sock in a washing machine, and get thumped by your surf board for being so clumsy, before you can even contemplate ‘catching a wave.’ In other words, you’re going to start off feeling like a total wally. As with any skill worth acquiring, perseverance is the key! Many a time I wanted to rest contentedly on my terrace, sipping coffee and watching the accomplished surfers. But Bruce Lee didn’t learn to kick ass by watching martial arts films, and Milarepa did not reach enlightment by closing his eyes and thinking of ice-cream. The waves are elusive, wily fellows who cannot be tamed. However, we learn from mistakes, and every time you fall off your board, you’re one step closer to staying on it next time.

• Try, try and try again. I admit it was often hard to convince myself to get out there. Not so much because of my aching arms or head full of sea water, or bruised nose. But more because of my bruised ego. More because I was scared of looking like a big flailing loser! I didn’t want to be that girl the spectators shook their heads at, or other surfers cursed under their breath as I once again floated into their path like a huge, embarrassing turd. However, nobody cares. Everyone’s been a beginner before and they’re more bothered about their own surfing anyway. Any spectators will likewise be watching the pros than someone who isn’t providing much entertainment. Plus, the advantage of being female is - apparently - that the adept are more forgiving of you. Also, it turns out that proper surfers can not only remain vertical for periods of time, but can also control the direction of their boards! So, if you find yourself like a boat without wind, the best course of action is to just stay where you are and let them steer around you.

• You need some upper body strength to paddle (pretty important if you actually want to catch the waves before they hit the shore) and to be able to jump up onto the board quickly enough. Having arms like bootlaces, I found that I had to do it in two steps and get onto my knees first, which isn’t as efficient. After a couple of days I covertly started doing press ups in my bedroom.

• It’s possible to surf in just your bikini ala Cameron Diaz and Demi Moore, but you’ll get a bloody annoying rash off it. Best to add a t-shirt and loose shorts.

• There’s an etiquette of waiting your turn for a wave, and not taking somebody else’s (surfing jargon for jumping your turn is ‘snaking’). However I never made it out into the water far enough to ‘join the line’. As it was obvious I didn’t know what I was doing, I think - I hoped - that most people let me off the hook if I did get in the way a bit, and I honestly tried not to.

• Watch where you’re going: Rather than joining the line up, I found a little spot that suited me, close to the shore. It would have been perfect if it wasn’t for the vacationing Javans playing in the surf who had to duck every time I charged into their group screaming “watch out!!!” before toppling into the waves.

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