The Big Durian (Jakarta)

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I had considered the idea of going to Jakarta at the beginning of my trip, but in speaking with a few friends did not consider going until a friend and I thought it might be possible to meet there. Jakarta 'the big durian' as it is known, (Durian is known as the stinky fruit, tastes incredible but smells like rotting garbage), I would not describe Jakarta as rotting garbage by any means but it is a city of vast economic contrast, so the fruit it is compared to is appropriate.

My friend Alexandra, whom I met over 12 years ago in Paris is quite a close friend who now lives in Hong Kong, she has a very close friend Niki who is a native to Jakarta and hoped she could see the both of us in one trip. Unfortunately Alex had to get back to Europe for a wedding but spoke to Niki and Niki and her family were to be my hosts while I stayed the weekend in JKT (Jakarta for short).

My flight was from Bali at 10am but had to be at the airport by 7, which was rough since I said goodbye to my friends from Oz (Australia) the night before. I slept pretty much the whole flight and was pleasantly surprised to find out there was a time change and that I gained an hour. On my arrival I grabbed my bags and had a text message from Niki that they were running behind but not by much. By the time I exited the airport, Niki and her driver were waiting for me.

We headed back to her family's house in east Jakarta, she lives there with her husband and son (Danny and TJ), her Mom, brother and sister in law and nephew. Its a very nice house with room for all. On our arrival, we were greeted by their house keeper Ibu, as my weekend progressed I learned how much of a character Ibu is. Ibu is from a village in Java, a tough chica, I was told you don't cross her, if she doesn't like you she might not be inclined to open the gate on your arrival, or put away the guard dog. I was told that she decided to paint the house one day and just tied a rope to heraself and the roof and off she went. She did a great job but was told for her safetly that she was told that she should not make a second attempt.

We dropped off my bags and I met Niki and Danny's son TJ. He is the cutest little boy and VERY smart. He speaks Bahasa Indonesia (the language of Indonesia), English and Chinese as Niki's family is ethnic Chinese and her mother speaks this to TJ. TJ said hello to me, if you asked him what color something was he replied with the correct color in English and could sing 'Twinkle Twinkle Little Star' to a T. We drove by Niki's Mom's furniature store to drop TJ off and headed to a spa.

Niki asked me on the way if I liked 'Gado Gado' I told her I did not know of the dish. She said I will try it for sure then. We arrived at the 'spa'. I was to have a scalp, shoulder and back massage as well as this strange steam aparatus put over my head. I was told this was to get the toxins out of your body and in my case I am sure the room reacked of 'Bintang' the local beer. We were there for about an hour and a half. The Gado Gado arrived which is mixed veggies with a good douse of peanut sauce for a base and hot sauce. Was very very good... The massage was well needed and was a treat but no more than $5 for everything.

Afterwards we headed into central JKT. I wanted to see the old historic center known as Batavia. On the way we passed through an area between the train tracks and the river and it was not a nice area, quite a shanty in fact . It was interesting though to see how 1/2 of the city lives. It was welll organized at least but the base of the homes was corrugate. On arrival at Batavia Niki was surprised to find so many people and I found out later relieved at the same time. There were beautiful dutch colonial building but they were falling down. We headed to a museum and looked at old furniature, paintings of some of the old dutch rulers and a view on the main square. We wandered the area for sometime and then headed back towards the car. We wandered in one building and found that there were a series of squatters whom had made this their home. There was a river next to the area and phewww it did have that Durian scent to it I must say.

We headed back towars Niki's house via China town and stopped at a famous bakery where we picked up some goodies for the house. Pastries with Banana and Chocoloate, just chocolate, Curried savory ones. They were very good. Once we were back I took a nap and then we headed out to dinner, we tried for something Indonesian but there was a wedding at the place we wanted to go so we decided on Indian instead followed by a few drinks at a place called the elbow room.

We called it an early night as we had plans to wake up early and grab dim sum. I woke up about 830 and read the Sunday Jakarta Post. Danny, Niki and I headed out about 930. On the way I saw this poster about trafficing drugs and it said 'do you want to get high' one picture had a photo of a guy who looked normal and the next in his coffin, stating the crime has a death sentenace. Not a place to get into trouble I must say.

Dim sum was good, there was plenty of food and I even managed to try a couple new things, pidgeon soup and chickens feet. From here we headed to the foot reflexology spa. Niki told me of this ear candling technique on the way, basically they stick a candle in your ear to get excess wax out, sounded strange but after eating pidgeon and chickens feet, why not . We entered this huge room, it was dark with about 100 people in lounge chairs, all getting foot massages. We started off by doing the candling. They lit a large candle and stuck it in your ear, two on each side, one at a time though. They also gave you a neck and back massage. When the procedure was complete they showed you the removed residue and and offered it as a souvenir, I declined. Next we had 90 minute foot massages which started and ended with a complete back and nect massage. I think I feel asleep for 60 minutes of it. It was incredible, and a steal all of this with tip was RP150,000 $16.

From here we headed to little indonesia, basically a theme park with a section for each major province complete with the typical house and souvenirs. The highlights were the houses of sumatra and seeing a real Komono Dragon.

After this we headed back to the house. In the mean time I needed a refill on an antibiotic and on my cellphone. Niki again is the hook up, two phone calls later and both were complete. We had planned that night to go out for seafood, so we headed back to the house to see TJ and meet a friend of Niki's. We hung out for a while and then Danny came to get us. The seafood restaurant was huge. You picked out live seafood as you walked in, told them how you wanted it prepared then headed to your table. We ordered about 3-5 crabs, shrimp, clams and snapper. The food was so good, the crab was in black pepper sauce and the sauces provided were devine. We headed back to the house early though as I had a flight at 6am for which I had to be up by 3:30... What a great time I had and thanks to Niki, Danny, TJ and everone who made this weekend so fantastic...

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