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Published: April 20th 2012
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6 months is probably a long time to spend in one city, especially a place like Jakarta which very frequently get by-passed by travellers. Typically, most people would head straight for the ultimate R&R destinations of the region - Bali or for those with a bit more appetite for adventure - Flores and Mt. Bromo. But 6 months is probably not a very long time to work, live and truly enjoy and appreciate a place like Jakarta.
Most people do not have a good first impression of the metropolis. The moment one steps off the plane in Soekarno-Hatta International Airport, it is a race from the gate to the immigration counters. The queues form very quickly but immigration clearance is slow. Queue-jumping is not uncommon. Those who are willing to pay some extra cash to airport staff for “assisted-clearance”, one can be out of the dark and dim arrival lounge in less than 10 minutes of touch down. At the arrival hall, hordes of taxi touts will be scrambling to get your attention. Outside the airport, visitors will be greeted with the real Jakarta, that acrid-burnt smell which I have come to associate Jakarta with after all this while. Yes,
its pollution is bordering at an unhealthy level. A colleague once pointed out that I will not find any birds in the city, the smart ones have all migrated to the mountains, the slow ones have died of pollution and the stupid ones have ended up in the locals’ dinner plates.
This country lies right across the Pacific Ring of Fire, it has its fair share of disruptions due to natural (and unnatural) disasters. Just as the country is recovering from the Asian Financial Crisis which resulted in the Rupiah losing 70% of its value, a tsunami swept away most parts of Acheh killing a quarter of a million around the world, then the great Jogja earthquake resulted in 70,000 homeless. At its backyard in Sidaorjo, hot toxic mud has been spewing out of the ground since May 2006 and it is showing no sign of retreating. A couple of volcanos are brewing and occassionally earthquakes strike and send villagers scrambling for life. It takes something to be an Indonesian. Clearly, despite its fair share of problem, the Indonesians know how to live and embrace life. Indonesians are definitely one of the most friendly people anyone will come across
The Royal Affair
And it's hot & spicy and most willing to share and help when circumstances arise. Pausing for casual chats and banters, stopping by to greet neighbours, friends and colleagues and finding time to attend parties, prayers, weddings, funerals, in fact, everything - all go to show that the Indonesians rarely let work or other commitments stand in their way.
If people would give this place a second chance, Jakarta has far more to offer than what most people would bargain for. For a start, 5* accommodations are widely available, imagine paying around US$$80-US$120 per night for a room in places like Four Seasons, Ritz Carlton or Intercontinental. The cheap (and most of the time, reliable) and colourful taxis, most budget visitors can afford to cab everywhere in the city with a flag-down rate of 4500 Rupiah (around US$0.50) (afterall, the sign-less bus system is just confusing). An elaborated meal in Jakarta will cost no more than a big Mac in Tokyo. And of course, for those with an appetite and a taste-bud for finer things in life, there’s always the
1 million Rupiah Burger.
Jakarta is the melting pot of Indonesia. Indonesians from around the country converge here (mainly) for work - bringing with them a
diversed culture, cuisine, language and religious practices with them. One can be strolling down Batavia, browsing at Fatahilla museum, enjoying a cup of kopi luak at the charming Cafe Batavia, while listening to a distant echo of mid-day prayer call, and then hop across the road for nasi padang with the widest selection of food and even wider selection of sambal (did I mention there are more than 1000 types of different sambals here?), and then a short taxi-ride away, be in the heart of the Chinese temples filled with incense and chants, then another short taxi-ride away, be in the swankiest shopping malls picking up the finest luxurious items. A taxi driver may seem religious wearing a skullcap and with a display of prayer beads, once the radio music is turned on, there is only room for tupac, dr. dre and snoop dog. A young girl with soulful eyes and sun-bleached blonde hair, bearing trinkets for sale in the middle of a busy traffic intersection - a simple wave declining the offer does not stop the young girl from extending her handshake for a new friendship.
At a corner of each busy street, there is always a small pushcart stall - selling daily staples like mee soto, nasi goreng and ayam penyet. Spending a bit more time there for a casual chat with the proprietor may even score you a glass of cold air bandung, gratis! Indonesians seldom withhold when it comes to giving. For visitors who find themselves in the city, they will definitely be receiving the kind, sincere and generous hospitality of the people here.
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