FACES OF JAVA: The Tengger

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FACES OF JAVA: The Tengger.

Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park in East Java...famous for its volcanoes...its volcanoes and its volcanoes...seduced to visit there by extraordinary photos on Travelblog...dreaming of that magic shot of a blast from Mt Bromo...like wheresjason caught...active in 2011...with Mt Semeru puffing merrily as backdrop.

Well that was the inducement.

I had no idea there was another reason to visit that area...overlooked in my research...not reported on actually...something that was there to be discovered...to be revealed in the doing...that would excite this portrait junkie.

Not a something...but a people...the inhabitants of this nest of volcanoes...living and farming on precipitous slopes...in harmony with the volcano gods...the Tengger people.

Not to be confused with the people of Nusa Tenggara Timur Provence...the Southeast Islands...including islands such as Flores, Sumba, West Timor, Komodo and hundreds of smaller islands.

Nor to be confused with the town of Tenggar in southern east Java...near Yogyakarta.

The Tengger...very much with the "e"...a remnant of the Hindu glory days of Java...a people that reputedly escaped the drive of Islamic forces that swept Java in the 16th Century...deposing the Majapahit Kingdom.

And as Islam took hold...the Tengger found refuge...and survived in the mountains...the mountains now known as Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park.

7.15 a.m train from Yogyakarta to Surabaya...five hours to the East...enduring love songs on the screen above...plastic Western models...twirling, sitting longingly looking...into a male model's eyes...then two horror films...too gruesome to watch anywhere but on public transport...why subject kids to these nightmares.?..the largest rice paddies I have ever seen...as we chug along.

Across the aisle...a mother with the sweetest child...happy to photograph him. But when she pulls out her mobile and starts txting...with the woman next to her doing likewise...the angle of the profiles...their headscarfs...each txting furiously...tempted to sneak a shot...put off by Cockle's "Moral Photography" forum thread...unwilling to steal the shot...c'est la vie.

I have never seen so much txting in my life as I saw in Java...in restaurants we would count the number txting while eating...while riding mopeds...on trains...in planes...in & on temples...walking in the streets...very little family communication...too busy txting.!

Den sent a few txts to Oz and we got a few back...each incoming...beep, beep, beep...15 minute intervals...at least seven times...then again later...each Telco cashing in & charging our account...really annoying...usually late at night.

We met Fandi...our guide for East Java...in Surabaya...took us to a simple satay eatery...street food...delicious.

"I have just heard from my friend that the road to Bromo is blocked...a human not a natural disaster...at Sidoarjo...a mining company has caused further mudflows from a volcano...I think we will have long delays tomorrow."

Does this ring a bell..?..."Didn't that mud volcano cover villages a few years ago?"

"Yes...since 2006...but this has just happened."

So Den & I made an executive decision...we were not looking forward to enduring traffic on a Surabaya tour today and then drive to Malang tomorrow for more traffic...then stationary for hours trying to get to Bromo...no sirree.

"If we leave for Bromo now...can you book us for tonight at the Lava View Lodge...make it four nights instead of three..?"

Extra time in the mountains...less in city traffic...let's go.

Right time to leave...little traffic as approached Sidoarjo...taking village backroads to avoid the blocked highway...skirt around the mudflow...the volcano known as "Sleeping Beauty"...local Police at every corner...unemployed seeking tips by directing traffic...wow...our driver is a genius..!

Through Probalingo...then into the mountains...one road snaking up for forever...then really steep...we are nearly there...our destination the village of Cemorolawang.

Den & I looked at each other...that look...we were both knew what the other was thinking...and nodded...good idea..!

One look at the wisps of mist...the green precipitous slopes...the sharpness of mountain air...we'll also extend our booking at Ijen for later in the trip...swap pristine for traffic...excited at the thought.

Welcome to Lava View Lodge...best views in the village...overlooking the sand sea...Bromo Crater...Mt Batok...Mt Semeru obscured by clouds...and the locals...the Tengger people.

And in our time at Bromo...we partied with the locals...special times...meet some of our new friends in this blog...those named...we travellers from OZ...accepted as locals...by the Tengger people.

How?...well...that's another story..!

Relax & Enjoy,

Dancing Dave



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