Eat more surf...

---

Been a bit slack with the blog over the last few weeks, purely because my weeks have consisted of trying to develop my surfing so thought it best to wait and summarise.


13th September came which meant it was time to say goodbye to Lisa knowing that I probably wouldn't see her for potentially a few years as she is starting her Singapore adventure before I return home. Was actually quite an emotionally prospect as we have reflected a lot on our friendship/group of friends and all the fun/ridiculous/cringe worthy stories and times we have shared in the last ten years. Was so good to spend time together exploring the various places but above all spending the majority of the time laughing, accept when we were hungry or tired. Then we were vicious little pigs who should be avoided!!

So it was time to go it alone, which I did well for about 3 hours after that I lost a flip flip on the plane, didn't have enough cash for the visa and ran over a dog on my way to the surf camp. (I wasn't driving) I had signed up to a surf camp that was away from the tourist hub of Kuta which is a little mental and busy. Instead I headed up to Medewi which is about 3 hours from the airport on the West coast. Beautiful place with the longest left hander in Bali and more importantly minimal tourists. I've always enjoyed surfing but its very much amateur hour when I'm in the water. I have always wanted to be one of those surfers that you see zooming along the waves carving up turns and then jumping off the wave instead of being munched by it. This ambition was all well and good until I realised the normal size we would surf was generally around 3-6ft with the occasional 7-9ft set. Several man up pills had to be taken on day 1 to get in the water. The surf guides know the water and current so well that immediately I felt at ease as they led you into the best positions to get waves. Within the first week I managed to ride a 6ft wave, thankfully I hadn't realised the size else I would have bottled it for sure. My arms and neck were the first thing that felt the affects of surfing 2 sessions a day! I never even realised I had some of the muscles that ached from the first 3 days. Thank goodness for the £6 massage on the beach, helped me out a treat. Although I'm pretty confident the people in the restaurant next door saw my bottom, which was not ideal.

Overall, I feel like I have definitely improved, my confidence more than anything. Big waves and getting out the back doesn't really phase me so much anymore. I also understand more about what makes a good wave and at what point you should take the wave. I understand far too well how to relax when you are in the 'washing machine' part of a wave so that you reach the surface of the wave without panicking. A delightful consequence of not paying attention to sets coming through. The positive aspect is its a great way to flush out any grime in my nose and throat. The only issue I have had was finding every possible rock which has led to my left leg and foot being destroyed from cuts and bruises. As well as hurting myself I've managed to break a board in half, snap a fin and loose a leash. Thank goodness for insurance!!

Today was a good start to the week with the session starting at 6am which is such an amazing time to be up and in the water. Perfect conditions, sun shining, no wind and glassy waves. After a few attempts I managed to catch a green wave and rode it for a while and put in a few turns. I hope I can do the same tomorrow as we have video coaching so would be great to see it. I stayed a week longer than I planned as I was really enjoying the surfing and I have been fortunate to meet some really lovely people who I've had a lot of fun with. We have had a number of parties on the beach with the £4 vodka and gin as well as the fondly regarded Bintang beer. One of the surf guides, Hery, has been an awesome DJ (DJ Mushroom) with his laptop and DJ app. He is like the Indo version of Craig Lills and I've enjoyed hanging out with him while I'm here. Plus he has a bike which has meant I can explore a bit and led me to sampling chicken foot soup for the first time a few days back. Good soup, the foot is a just a bit off putting and I couldn't cope with the texture when I attempted to eat it.

Away from surfing we have played some beach football, guests v surf guides aka boys v girls. We lost 5-3 but I did score one which made it a little better. I tried really hard not to be over competitive as I know what I can be like! I've also managed to ride a manual motor bike, which was fine until I had to stop. Managed a 30km round trip on it to get my £1 pedicure and £2 back massage which was most important. Last weekend myself and a Swiss girl went to Kuta Sat night with the surf guides for a night out. Was a really fun night with some funny drinking games in the boys hotel room and far too much vodka being drunk before heading to the club. The club was full of beautiful people and everyone wore flip flops, was a dream! We also met up with two Austrian girls I had become good friends with before they left last week. All of us together danced solidly for about 3 hours was dripping by the end of it. However, the red bull meant sleeping was a bit of a mission so Sunday was a massive lazy day.

4 more nights left, 8 more surfs, 4 more days of eating my breakfast on the beach reflecting on how lucky I am before I move on. Friday morning I plan to go and meet the Austrian girls I have mentioned previously and stay with them. We may then head to an island just off the south of Bali. Otherwise I will head over to Lombok to explore. Will be really sad to leave Medewi as the people are so warm, the village is 'basic' but everyone seems to always be happy. The children are the most impressive as they always want to speak to you and are so polite. They like to practice their English when you walk past. Above all they are able to be children who act their age instead of rushing to grow up. They play together, are practical, respectful and very independent. A number of times I have seen the kids around here playing on the beach without a parent in sight but they are sensible and just get on with it. Very refreshing!

---