Bali at last

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01MAY11
Dave here. Wow, what do I even say about Bali? After the mad rush of India, the slowness and friendliness are nearly shocking. I did like a lot of things about India, mind you. The things which we were ‘warned’ about never even came up on my list. The abject poverty was there, but I’ve seen it in San Francisco and LA. There was begging but I didn’t feel the background hostility I sometimes feel in the States. The food was spicy, but overall not as bad as Thailand can get. Now, I did not eat from street vendors and avoided ice except when it was stated clearly that it was filtered, but for all the crazy warnings we had going in, India was quite nice. There was lechery like I’ve never seen, Heather was apparently quite the sight to see even in her most demure clothing, but the individuals we met all along the way were wonderful. I suppose it’s like my view of the U.S.; I can’t stand people, but persons seem to be quite wonderful. Perhaps I’ll detail India more later, for now it’s on to Bali.
Our first few days involved immense intestinal wreckage for me with fever and chills and nearness to a bathroom a must (a parting gift from India?). Luckily we had a sweet place with A/C, and when I did get out it was really nice. I am continually blown away by the ornateness (Spell check doesn’t like that one, must have never been to Bali) of all they do here. Whether it’s a building, an obvious place for fanciness, a temple, more obvious, or the daily offerings they put out in front of or on each building, they truly take their time and put beauty as intention. It makes such a difference in our daily lives here! Even though the poverty here seems more prevalent than in India, they don’t throw their garbage on the ground, they don’t pee on just any handy wall, and they smile, smile, smile. All the people with whom we’ve interacted have joked and smiled and laughed with us continually. It seems that even in the bargaining at markets there is a jocularity that offsets their actual desire to feed their families. Sometimes they are more intent on cash value than other times, but it’s almost always done with smiles and laughter. Lovely!
I have really been enjoying the Nature here, too. Right now it’s 0732, and the exotic birdsongs outside my ‘window’ (the entire bamboo wall rolls aside) are intense. Crazy warbling and calls, and a single small goat is off in the distance, waves are swooshing in, I just heard a kid laughing, and I am expecting the rooster call from a distant neighbor again any moment. Doesn’t seem to know 4 AM from sunrise, but it’s far enough away to nearly ignore. The scene I am describing, by the way, is taking place on the Eastern shore, in the Amed area in the village of Aas. Yes, we’re staying in the magical kingdom of Aas! It wasn’t yellow bricks that led us here, however, it was an amazing ride through unrefined roads that took us up over mountains, across rivers, past an ancient water palace, through miniature villages full of kids shouting “’ello!” to the crazy white people daring the roads out in their boondocks. Our driver had never been to this part of his island before and was not aware of the Northern route, or ‘sane’ route, as it were. It was rough going at times, but in retrospect we’re glad we travelled that way.
There was an unexpected bonus for our nights in the upland area around Ubud, amongst the rice paddies was a constant flashing of large lightning bugs. I expected the varied species of frog choruses, some that I’ve never dreamed of, and the fly-bys of bats, but the wee flashes throughout the fields were an extra dose of magic. We stayed with a lovely couple, met via couchsurfing.org, for our first two nights in Ubud, and they have a pool overlooking the aforementioned rice paddies, with the frogs coming up inches from my nose while I was paddling around in the dark. Cam-tastic and Hillary were gracious hosts and tour-guides, and we hung out together well after we were in their spare room. It looks like we’ll see each other in the States, even, as they are Burning Man fans and live in the Bay Area. H&H got along famously in a myriad of ways, as did Cameron and I. He is also interested in healing and music and philosophy, and through no coincidence I’m sure, plays a Gibson Les Paul…
Ubud was great for shopping, finding great food, and local dance and music. It was busy, taxi drivers, dance hall patrons and vendors all trying to sell, but like I said, all with a layer of genuine friendliness and desire to help. PLUS they have the sacred Monkey Forest! That was magical and cute and inspiring. Wee babies running around, little beings lounging with bananas, grooming each other with uncannily person-like movements, mischievous teens (some with punk-rocker hair) getting into trouble, and all of them so calm. Even when hopping on an unsuspecting tourist from behind to nab a proffered banana, it seemed calm. A little unsettling when they had a hold of my striped shirt, but it was me, not them. The Ubud area is also rife with old temples and sacred areas, as is I believe all of Bali. Heather and I visited a couple while out and about on scooter, including a very old waterfall where families were climbing down the MANY steps to bathe in the sacred, cleansing waters. It felt very old and the holiness was palpable. To find it was a challenge, as it was not on our maps. We knew the general area and then stopped in a town that appeared to be ALL temple and asked a man in his ‘cell phone minutes selling’ store where it might be. He spoke no English but heather mimed going down many steps. He grinned broadly and said “,Wait, wait…” He stepped around to our side of the store, hopped on his scooter and motioned us to follow. We followed for a few kilometers before he stopped in front of an unassuming flight of stairs going off in to the deep bamboo jungle. Big smile again and off he went! He did not want cash, just wanted to help. I love this place.
Now on the s-l-o-w side of Bali. No ATMs, rare internet, one road, and every beach is covered in brightly colored outrigger fishing boats. More friendly people, we ran in to an old friend-of-a-friend who has been hooking us up, and the Western travelers have all been sweet. Later today we go to a locals’ house (Wayan Wani) and he is going to cook with his Papa a local specialty with tuna. We’ll meet his friends and his brother, too. Tomorrow we are considering going with him to a yearly ceremony where they celebrate the people from their lives who have died. It should be something quite special.

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Photos

Succulent surroundings
This is in the rice steppes above Ubud