In search of enlightenment... again

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I have been settled in Rishikesh for a week now - and it really is the most beautiful place - I am happy that I am spending my last 2 weeks in India here, and especially happy that I can experience this place at the end of my India trip when I am feeling so relaxed.

I am not officially in Rishikesh - I am in a suburb called Laxman Jhula which is about 2 km further up then Ganges river. The entire place is often called Rishikesh, but actually seems to be in three sections which line both sides of the river - Rishikesh, then Ram Jhula, then Laxman Jhula - the latter two being landmarked by "pedestrian" bridges which cross the great Ganga (Ganges river).

I have moved into Nishant Guest House, high up a hill in Laxman Jhula..about a 10 minute walk up a steep hill on the west bank of the river. I found myself here by recommendation of a yoga teacher who lives here - and I am so glad I chose this rather than go with something from guidebook. It is small (about 10 rooms) and pretty basic, but it is really friendly. There are only 2 other guests - Avi, an Israeli who seems to pretty much live here, studying for an Open University Psychology degree - he heads to Delhi to sit exmas every month or so - and a Japenese girl who is also studying with the same yoga teacher as I am. This place is usually a lot busier when in season of course, but for now the staff are pretty chilled out, smoking pot, playing pool, and making tea and cooking whenever we guests ask. It really is cold just now (the newspapers are full of news of neighbouring areas closing down schools for the week because of it) and there is no heating, and not very often hot water - so things are pretty basic. The staff build a fire at the side of the restaurant every night from about 4pm as the cold descends again, and everyone sits around it keeping warm before it really is time to hit bed. This guest house is kindof hidden away and not in any guide book, but amazingly people hear about it and climb the hill in the dark to come and sit by the fire, play pool and just generally chat - it is so friendly and good company every night. I am absolutely loving it and really wish I could stay longer.

It is very new-agey around here and there are signs upon signs for healing, meditation, therapies, ashrams.... and the other draw for the area is slightly more adrenalin focussed in that this is a gateway for many treks and rafting trips which I would definitely have been up for, but I am about a month too early.. the weather is just too cold apparantly (I dont fancy falling into the Ganges in freezing temperatures - holy water or not).

What is amazing about being here at this time is that I am getting the chance to soak up the atmosphere of the place without the added "indian" factor which would have blown me away when I first arrived. The basic living conditions I am pretty much used to - yes of course a warm duvet and a heater would be a welcome addition, but there is something nice about the ritual of getting "dressed" for bed, cocooning in the blankets for warmth, huddling around the fire at night, drinking tea and ginger drinks for actual warmth rather than just a comfort thing - it's a great feeling. Don't worry, I have not gone all spiritual, at all, (I dont think) but there is something very special about the atmosphere in the town - both from the locals (who are incredibly friendly - with exception of rickshaw drivers who continue to be out and out ripoff merchants) - but also because the "tourist" or more accurately, "non-indian" visitors - some of whom are long term residents - are in the main here to live in ashrams (there are many), study meditation and yoga, and generally take their time over life - and it is infectious - it really is. You cant really go anywhere without people smiling at you all the time. Which sounds weird, but it is really really nice.

My routine at the moment is to do a yoga class first thing (8:30) which takes me to about 10am, then I go see Usha - the ayurvedic doctor (more of which later) for whatever treatment the day holds, then spend the rest of the day pretty much cafe cruising around town, reading books, taking in the view, the time just goes, and then it is time to sit round the fire again before I am asleep by 9pm. I havent felt so relaxed in months I dont think - and I met an australian woman today who said I was positively shining... so something must be going right.

Yet again I was drawn to the ayurvedic clinic - of which there are many. I really dont know what it is that drives me- I could easily sit round the fire and get pissed every night - many do (including the staff)- I can do whatever I want - but I keep ending up trying these treatments - Im just fascinated by it all. Well - that, and it is so cheap of course. Which is very odd - when I am at home and have comparatively little time to myself I tend to opt for the hedonistic pursuits of getting pissed and the like - which just makes for even less time to myself and making things a bit more stressful - you would think here when I have all the time in the world I would take the opportunity to do it more often with less pressure - but apparantly not. Hardly a unique view point, but it really does make you think sometimes.

Anyway....this time (you can stop laughing - I am on an eternal search) I have signed up for a panchakarma - a 14 day "cleanse" - to try to balance my doshas. I dont really know much about ayurvedic medicine - but in summary the belief is that everyone has 3 doshas, to varying degrees in each one of us. The balance of each can be different in each one of us - but the ayurvedic practice helps to ensure that each individual's correct balance is right. The three doshas are Vatta (air), Pitta(fire) and Kapha(water). After some diagnosis, Usha the doctor told me that I am dominated by Kapha - here is the description (you can scroll past if you want)


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Kaphas are sensuous, strong, calm, soft-spoken and forgiving. They tend to have well-developed bodies with big but not prominent bones. Hair is plentiful, usually dark and wavy or curly. Kaphas frequently have oily complexions and large, soulful eyes. Of all of the doshas, kaphas have the most trouble keeping their weight proportionate. Vatas worry and fidget themselves skinny. Pittas burn off the pounds with their fiery energy. But sweet, self-satisfied kaphas can turn into couch potatoes who kick back and pack on the pounds.

At their best, kaphas are wise, relaxed, tolerant and loyal. Connected to the elements of earth and water, kaphas are usually well-grounded, fluid and able to accept changes. Down-to-earth and good-humored, they can make wonderful friends and excellent hosts. But when their energy goes out of whack, kaphas become greedy, possessive and selfish. While their tendency to live in the present is advantageous to their spiritual development, their deep, abiding attachments to people and things can be obstacles on the spiritual path.

Kapha energy dominates in winter and early spring, and some of the diseases kaphas are most vulnerable to are associated with those seasons. Kaphas can be more susceptible to colds and flus, sinusitis and headaches. Kaphas frequently suffer seasonal allergies. Their metabolisms can be sluggish, making them feel tired, gain weight easily and retain water.

The good news for kaphas is that if they eat sensibly and exercise regularly, their natural strength and endurance give them an advantage for living long, healthy lives. A good kapha diet emphasizes pungent, bitter and astringent foods. Kaphas can safely use plenty of spices but are advised to stay away from sweet foods and follow a low-fat diet.

From the financial perspective, kaphas are the most likely to build up wealth. They're good at making money and at saving it. Kaphas thrive in the desert or in mountainous regions, as long as the weather is moderate to warm. New Mexico is a great place for kaphas to live.
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I read this after I signed up for the course, but apparantly I am going to be fat, rich, and am advised to live in New Mexico... not very ancient indian belief - I think this must be an american website - but you get the idea.

The description of the other doshas can be found at this website: http://www.mothernature.com/Library/Bookshelf/Books/21/12.cfm

I think it is really interesting. So - after the initial consultation she told me that my doshas are actually balanced, so I didnt need any treatment to get my correct alignment - so she offered me an all over cleanse - which I was up for. Why not - it is such a lovely place, very chilled out, really fresh air (which after cities like Delhi is a huge difference) - and combined with a bit of yoga I thought it would be pretty good.

Am on day 6 at the moment - programme so far has been 1 day massage and the now infamous steam box. This was hard (strong woman did it), also a bit cold, and as there was no hot water I had to roam the streets for two days afterwards with the oil matted in my hair. The next 3 days was to start the internal cleanse - so I had to drink increasing amounts of medicated ghee - which was absolutely disgusting - like warmed butter and herbs funnily enough - and made me nearly boke - but I held it together, back to a massage the next day, then yesterday was a full cleanse where I had to drink 7 litres of water and flush out my system continually over a 4 hour period. It was HARD and I was pretty dazed when I came out (they locked me in a room to do this). I have been having troubles recently wearing my new hiking boots. I was told more than once to "break them in" before I left, but of course I knew better, and paraded around London in sandals all summer (well, that and wellies from what I remember). Anyway - have been trying to wear the boots and break them in whilst here in preparation for Nepal but they make my feet ache. Yesterday I had taken the easy option and wore a pair of converse - the only other shoes that I have. Well - being dazed, I came out of the a toilet (which are always damp on floor due to "paperless" technique) and slipped down a flight of stairs. This was actually very lucky. If I had gone head first I wouldve pretty much gone through the landing window, but weirdly I fell backwards and kind of clunked down the entire flight - I got quite a speed up, and I was pretty shaken. An indian boy helped me up and didnt even laugh (I wouldve cracked up) - they really just take everything in their stride. Today the boots are back on and I am working through the pain...

Writing all that down makes it sound like I am having a torturous time - I'm not at all, the treatments are great , it just seems to fit into my day - and it is also nice to chat to Indian woman, which, apart from going the the beauty parlour ever other week, I never really get the chance to do. Have suddenly realised how this might sound to those at home. I have not lost it, or joined a cult, or shaved my head or anything - I honestly feel really really good. I'll let you know the final results.

I am sad about leaving next week, really sad about leaving India - but I am looking forward to Nepal a lot - assuming the weather conditions are good. I am not doing so good on the warm clothing and managed to set my only pair of warm trousers on fire the other night whilst sitting at the fire. Most of left leg is burnt (I was fine) - so I need a new pair. I cant exactly go trekking in jeans. One amazing thing about this place and also not drinking, is that I have managed to spend only 50 quid this week - and that includes rent (although not the yoga). I love it here - I might even move here.... or at the very least come back for a visit. It may be more packed in high season, but hopefully the atmosphere remains the same..

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Photos

Sunset over the Ganges
This is the nightly view..

My guest house restaurant
This is where I hang out every night, by the fire..

Working the land
Lots of construction going on here, so the horses are in high demand