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Published: August 26th 2013
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Burning Ghat woodpile (one of)
Puts my cache in Australia to shame! Our path is to heal. To create the circumstances where healing can begin. A Course in Miracles One of the more delightful things about India is the random event or meeting. Again the hindi word 'kudrat' (gift from god) comes to mind to describe these occasions.
I was minding my own business having a day of slow walking through the northern ghats along the Ganga. Of course, access is very limited now because the river is so high – you cannot walk along the ghats; you can only take separate little side streets to explore whether they lead to the waters edge (which is now lapping high at steps above the submerged infrastructure below).
Having had a swim at Lalita Ghat, and a nap in the cool tunnel (along with some babas who didn't seem to mind me sharing a part of the side concrete slab with them), I ventured on towards the Burning Ghat. But I was not that interested in seeing bodies burning (been there and done that a lot in previous visits when the water was low and you could move around a little, and in the heat
Approach to Uma's house
This is the view coming down the steps that captured me - tranquil and cool out of the midday sun of the day in late summer, its no joy being close to fire and smoke). I ventured into a wood yard just for interest, and after dismissing the hawkers selling death views from balconies and other vantage points, continued north.
At the top end of Manikarnika Ghat, I stumbled across a picturesque and cool grotto at the waters edge. There above me to the left was a man on a gorgeous little balcony. I sat and gestured a greeting, also commenting on the beauty of the edifice on which he stood. In a soft voice that immediately inspired trust, he invited me into his house.
Voila! Kudrat! Inside was the most tranquil (hindi name is shanti) temple foyer leading into an inner sanctum surrounded by a marble floor hall and outside ornate stone verandah which now (due to the high Ganga) had absolute water views. A soft cooling breeze was floating in off the fast flowing water. The man invited me to sit and rest. He explained that this temple and house was the property of the Maharaja of Rajasthan (Varanasi, being the Mecca of Hinduism, has many buildings belonging to various maharajas from states and past kingdoms
Opposite Umas house
Just a quaint little side alley across India). The man left me, assuring me I could sit and rest as long as I wished.
After a short time he came and sat with me. He was a Brahmin and his name was Uma. He was 56 years old, married, and had a 12 year old son. After some initial discussion about where I was from and what I did in my country he told me in his broken English that he had 'mind trouble' and could I help him? He used to have a shop in the market but for 10 years had not been able to face it. We discussed his condition and agreed that he was talking about chronic depression. He was interested in whether I knew of any medication and confirmed that he had been prescribed some but it just sent him to sleep all the time. We discussed the importance of exercise, a good social network of at least 2 or 3 friends who understood the condition, good diet, meditation, and allowing thoughts to come and go without them taking over ones state of being.
We seemed to get on well with ease. We talked about how happy we were
Uma on his balcony
Uma told me his name was that of the female side of Shiva (Parbati) to have met each other. He then had to go to the market to have a ceiling fan motor repaired. The way he again let me be and felt comfortable to go and do that made me feel very accepted. While he was away I had a fantastic nap on the marble floor (ah – I had brought my 'borrowed' Qantas rug!!).
When he returned 40 minutes later, he asked if I would like chai – and off he went to have it prepared (presumably by his wife). We sat out on the balcony and drank the chai.
More than 2 hours later I decided it was time to head off. I asked if it was OK to visit again while at the same time he asked I would. I will.
Kudrat!
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Marguerite
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Brilliant
I want to come to Uma's - pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease!!! The photos are sensational. Best hugs Marguerite