Varanasi - I see dead people

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Arriving in Varanasi and looking around the "old city" it seemed very dirty and noisy so we asked the driver to take us a little way down the river to the Assi Ghat area which was a lot quieter and would be a good location to have a bit of piece and quiet. The hotel was alright but nothing grat - basic in every way but a large room and weston toilet with good power in the shower! We agreed 300 rups for the room and then the old guy at the desk wanted 2 days money up front - aftr him getting quite annoyed and both Leah and i nearly walking out - we just decided to pay it and see how it all worked out. After a nice shower and breakfast of porridge with honey and banana - we were feeling much more relaxed. Now it was time to see what varanasi had to offer!!!!

We started to walk along the ghats by the river but as this was still the beginning of the season - they were still washing the flood mud away from the steps that led down to the river which made walking along them either really sticky with this filthy shity mudm or totally hopeless as there was a torrent of water flowing down which were were unable to pass. After negotiating the steps and then swinging back up into the tangle of labyrinth style streets we made it to the main ghat which was totally packed with people. Every person there was there for a reason - some selling boat trips, hair cuts and massages - others there for a religious purpose and then the many tourists with their cameras out and touts crowding them.

We headed along to see the burning ghats. This is a place where you bring your dead to be burned by fire on public view and then they throw the ashes into the river! But right next to this is where they wash your cloths and a little further down is where they collect their drinking water - i cant believe that they are not all dead to be honest. Anyhow, the burning ghats are working 24 hr a day all the year long. There must have been 15 - 20 people on fire when we were there and the touts (yes touts) kept telling us that the area was for the family only and that we have to go and watch for a "special" viewing platform which once there, they ask for money for people that dont have enough money for their own wood. Each person is calculated so that just the right amount of wood is used to totally burn the body and there is a special way to measure this.
We declined on the viewing plat form and decided that there was a better view from the other side of the ghat - but once again after a few minutes, the touts found us and said its a family area - even though the people there were drinking and playing cards and stuff. But we have looked enough and so decided to have a look around the rest of the city!

We got up at 5am to go down for a morning boat ride which goes up and down the ghats so you can see people chanting and washing from a totally different angle. This was such a relaxing experience and one that will stay with me. We both had such a nice hr on there that it was a shame to come back to land but both our tummies were rumbling so we went and had a massive breakfast with plenty of chi to wash it down!

Off to Hyderabad this evening and its going to take about 28 hrs or so to get there! I just hope its not too delayed......... please not to long...

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