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Published: October 6th 2011
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AC3 Class
Kate and her new friends We caught the overnight sleeper train to Varanasi. We booked into the AC3 class which means there 6 lots of beds in one cabin with a curtain for privacy with two beds in the corridor, and most importantly it is air conditioned. There was AC1 which is double the price but they have lockable cabins with 2 or 4 beds within cabins. AC2 which costs an extra 1/3 but the only difference between this class and the one we booked was that there is only 4 beds in a cabin rather then 6. We were happy with our choice as we had a lovely family and two chinese tourists in our room so it helped pass the time even if the one lady was nosiy all night mucking about with her mobile and keeping Terry up.
We departed at 6.45pm and arrived in Varanasi the next day at 9.30am – 2hrs late. The guidebook warns you about the touts and scams that await you when you arrive but it really is true. As we had not prebooked our hotel we decided to leave our bags at the station clock room, go into town, check in then come back later for our
AC3
View of the corridor of the sleeper train bags. We knew that if we walked out of the station with our backpacks and wonder aimlessly we would be big targets, plus the heat was unbelievable, had to be close to 40c outside. We had met a couple of girls from China who was only staying for the day in Varanasi so we got off the train with them and instantly we were surrounded by at least 5 men and they were growing, asking us where we want to go, if we need hotel (they make big commission if they book you into a hotel. We managed to find left luggage and made our way with our stream of followers outside. We tried to organise our own tuk tuk into town, to the ganges but the group of men just scared the other tuk tuk drivers off till we had no choice but to get one pre arranged. We knew the going rate was 60 rupees into town so we agreed on 50 rupees. As we were about to drive off an extra guy jumped in, and as the book says, he would become your guide and then demand more money. Terry and I kicked up a huge fuss
A bull shopping
Loads of bulls just wondering up and down the lanes of Varanasi and said either gets out or we do. They actually looked shocked but the guide jumped out and we were on our way. The streets are so dusty and that my glasses were caked in layer of muck. We weaved in and out of bikes, cars, people tuk tuks and cows. Yes Varanasi streets and roads are just full of cows/bulls roaming freely around, unfortunately so is there muck and the stench. We were dropped off in town for our 50 rupees which was cheap but I guess they didn't think we would be going without the guide. The driver tried to charge us more but we said a deal is a deal and got out. Wondered around the numerous narrow lanes and ended up in front of the ganges river. Now this is where the Indian people cremate their dead as they believe offers liberation fom the cycle of life and death. There are 100s of ghats along the shores of the ganges where people are brought to be cremated. Thousands of Hindus every day come and take a holy bathe in the river but they are also bathing in millions of tonnes worth of sewage which is pumped
Kate faces the bull
Thankfully the bulls do not care for people so you can walk past them without them charging at you - I hope! out of 30 large sewers.
It is very hard to walk around Varnasi without the constant badgering of touts but as long as you are firm they get the message. I love the narrow lanes but it can be a challenge to miss all the cow dung and the bulls themselves, you just see the size of their horns as you walk past and think please dont stab me, please don't stab me!!
We bumped into two German backpackers and asked which hotel they had booked, they said it was clean and budget price they had fine so we decided to follow them to their hotel. Cost 500 rupees a night, about £7 and it was right in the middle of the main town so it was a fair price.
The best time to see the Ganges is at sunrise, 5.30am so not sure if we will make it but going to try anyway, but this is when the pilgrims perform puja to the rising sun.
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