Varanasi

---

"Older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together." - Mark Twain


Its difficult to know how to describe such a place as Varanasi. A continuous religious tradition has been practiced here since at least the 6th entury BC. One guide told me there are three reasons to be in Varanasi; one is to die for whoever dies in Varanasi attains Moshka or enlightenment, the second is for those waiting to die which explains the thousands of sick and elderly lying in the streets, and the third is to find good karma from bathing in the holy Ganges.

Along the Ganges are hundreds of Ghats which look basically like steps leading up to temples or fortresses. Each one seems to have a particular purpose or association. The architecture is incredible and inspiring; hopefully I will be able to upload some pics soon. But beyond the architecture the proximity to dying and death is overwhelming at times. Upon first encountering the burning or cremation ghats it is difficult to even fathom what is happening before your eyes. It really doesn't seem real. I've lived a pretty sheltered life and the only dead bodies I have seen up close were at two funerals with open caskets. Within minutes of encountering the burning ghats i saw 20-30 some on time of the fires burning. I went through very quickly the first time while being accosted by touts for money donations for wood to burn poor peoples' bodies with, but on the way back I paused just to take it all in. Seeing the bodies carried down on wooden stretchers by the families covered with colorful cloth and flowers, then seeing them dunk the body in the ganges before laying ontop of a pile of wood and seeing it began to burn. It is supposed to take 3 hours to burn the body and alot of wood. I don't know even how to describe the scene of 8-10 bodies burning at the same time in different states of cremation. Smoke is everywhere and of course there are no photographs aloud. After awhile the smoke and heat is too intense but its an image that I will never forget.

I'm headed off tomorrow for a stop in Bodigaya which according to legend is where Buddha attained enlightenment and then up to Darjeeling for the final portion of my journey...

---

Comments

[mom]

A journal description I couldn't sleep through
Wow. what an amazing experience. Your description was well written and vivid. You will be a changed man if you aren't already. Keep traveling and writing.

[Mom]

Very vivid descriptions - great experience
Very good description of your sites, sounds and smells. What a great experience. You will definitely be changed after all of that. Keep up the postings as they are great. Wish I could be there with you.