Exploring Nawabi Lucknow

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Last Thursday after class our school organized a trip to explore two of Lucknow’s most famous structures—the Bara Imambarah and the Chota Imambarah. First though, our group was driven to the house of a descendant of one of the Nawabs of Awadh, Mr. Abdullah, for tea and a short lecture about his family and the old Nawabi culture of Lucknow. ‘Nawab’ is a courtly and administrative title that is akin to a governor, and ‘Awadh’ was the name of the regional area with Lucknow as its capital that became the center of official Muslim culture and influence after the British had firmly established themselves in Delhi.

Mr. Abdullah had our group into his house where he talked a little about his descendant’s history (they came to Delhi from Nishapur, Iran in the early 1700s) and the distinctive culture that they promoted (signified by the slogan of Lucknawi politeness, “pehlee aap”, or “after you”). The Nawabs are remembered for many things, such as their patronage of the arts, but they are generally depicted as selfish and eccentric men who spent large amounts of money and resources on their own pleasures while the province was actually ran by the British governors. Two men part of the Nawab constructed two large Imambarahs in Lucknow. An Imambarah is a building that often houses the tombs of notable men and also serves as the main place for male gatherings during Shi’a Muslim commemorative times such as during Muharram and Ashura.

So after the talk at the Nawab’s home our group first visited the Bara Imambarah (large Imambarah) and the adjoining structure called Bhool Bhulaiyya (“maze”). The Imambarah was ordered built by the Nawab Asif ad-Daula starting in 1784 in order to provide work for people suffering due to a famine. It has marble floors and a large central hall that was constructed without the need for supporting pillars. Right now I’m reading excerpts from a book called “Lucknow: The Last Phase of an Oriental Culture” which claims that after the Mutiny of 1857, the Imambarah area served as a fort for British troops and its great and magnificent hall was used as an armory!

The Bhool Bhulaiyya maze served as a repository for the Nawab’s secret commodities and wealth. Many of the paths are ‘dead-ends’ meant to confuse anyone looking for goods. It was kind of scary going down into the building because it sees no daylight, so thankfully we had a guide.

Our last site visit was to the Chota (small) Imambarah, not too far from the larger one. As you enter the gates which face the street, a long rectangular reflecting pool draws your eye straight to the Imambarah’s doors. This Imambarah was built in 1837, and is known as “The Palace of Lights” because of the many beautiful chandeliers and glass lights that are inside the hall; during the commemorations of Muharram all of these lights are lit.

So I think that is all for now, I hope everyone had a great Fourth of July!

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Photos

Our Group Photo with Mr. Nawab
You all know I don't like to take photos. See if you can find me in the back. But, that day I was rocking an awesome hot pink kurta with matching pants so I do wish you could have seen that

Inside the Nawab's House
Lots of stuff going on here: family pictures, heirlooms, etc.

Rumi Gate
Named so because it is a replica of one of the gates in Istanbul. "Rumi" here refers to the proximity of Istanbul to Rome.

Gate Details
This fish symbol served as the symbol for the Nawabs of Lucknow

Nawab Asif Ad-Daula's Mosque
This sits to the right of the Bara Imambarah

Chota Imambara
There is a long rectangular reflecting pool that leads up to the building

Golden Alam (battle standard)
Inside the Chota Imambarah

Tazia Inside the Chota Imambarah
This is actually 200 years old. A Taziya is a small replica of Imam Hussayn's shrine and is carried by members of the community in public processions during Muharram. Otherwise it sits on display in the Imambarah.

Persian Calligraphy
On the outer face of the Chota Imambarah