The Taj

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We made it to Agra yesterday. The city itself is a cesspool. Like a mini-Delhi. Traffic jams everywhere like I have never seen before rule the day. If you don't have 5 cars all pointed at each other trying to move you're not trying hard enough. To top it off, while you are stuck for all eternity in your vehicular-staredown, people of all ages and will come up, begging for money. Some will be older, some mothers with babies, some children carrying other children with scars. And they all descend at the same time, surrounding you. Even if you roll up your window they arne't dissuaded. And then, the light turns green and 100 motorbikes appear from behind you, rushing ahead to get through the light first, before the inevitable horse, bus, truck, and 3 car jam ensues. And you drive 10m and wait to do it all over again. Topping it off is the need to be wary of everyone walking through--if your door is unlocked, they make try and open it. They opened mine and shut it again, scaring the hell out of me. I felt like a sitting duck.

Once you get through all the chaos 2 things await you in Agra. Only 2. The Agra Fort and the Taj Mahal. I would really like one of the latter for myself.

We arose at 6am and met Rama at 6:30. After a 5 minute drive we hopped out with yet another tour guide (please, let this one be good!) and set off walking towards the Taj. Cars are only allowed to get so close for security reasons.

We got in line, men on on side, women on the other side, our breath like smoke in the cool morning fog. Our guide rushed off to get our 750 Rupee tickets. Before us loomed the west gate. It was too foggy to see much else, but everyone around us was trying to take picutes of it, the anticipation building.

At 7am the heavy doors slowly swung open, revealing a security checkpoint. After being patted down (or felt up, as we liked to joke, as they are very thorough) we walked in. Inside there were 2 more entrance gates: south and east. To the north stood another red looming gate, but this one was much bigger and more majestic. On top were 22 spires/domes, one for each of the years it took to complete the momument. Around the large doorway was an inlay mosaic with Arabic from the Koran. We walked through and before me, through the grey morning mist, I could see the Taj Mahal in all its glory.

The fountains had not yet been turned on, so everyone gathered 'round to snap photos of the Taj reflecting in the pool of water. We all kept apologizing for walking into each others' shots--I came to realize taht every step I took would take me out of one person's shot and into someone else's memories.

We toured around the grounds, our guide actually telling us useful information and taking our pictures at the best locations. First we looked at the gardens and fountains. The he showed us the "guest house" which completed the symmetry of the grounds, opposite the mosque. It was a large, red building with vast, open rooms insde, with amazing mosaics and carvings. Across the way, the Taj sparkled in the morning light, her inlay jewels dancing like rainbows. Then we put paper booties over our shoes and proceeded up to the monument.

The 4 spires are all angled out 16 degrees instead of standing straight. The architect did this so that in the event of an earthquake they won't fall and damage the monument. I managed to snap a photo of a parakeet on one of the spires.

Going up the smooth, white, marble stairs, I touched my hand to the cool wall. Our guide told us that in the summer it actually gets quite hot and barefoot tourists often look like they are dancing.

We entered the mausoleum and were engulfed in total darkness. For a white building, I expected to be albe to see a little bit better!
The Queen's tomb was in the middle, in perfect symmetry with the doors and the pool and the main and south gates. To the west of her is teh King's tomb. It is the only thing in the entire complex out of summetry; his daughter had him buried there years later so he could be beside his beloved. As I was admiring the detailed inlay on both the tombs and marble screen surrounding them, our guide pulled out a pencil flashlight and pressed it to the stones. As he moved it around the flower patterns, they came to life, like a kalidescope, dazzling and dancing before my eyes. He let both of us do it too--it works best on yellows and reds--and we joked that we could do that for hours.

A few hours later Kent and I would sit across the river and through the haze and pollution--not morning mist--we would watch throngs of people swarm this sacred place. I would contemplate what it would be like to love someone so much as to want to build them something so beautiful and grand to honor them in death.

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Photos

Detailing on the Taj
Inlaid jewels and precious stones