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Published: January 14th 2008
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Well after spending so long time in Orcha we unfortunately only had a very short time in Agra to see the not to be missed Taj Mahal, which we nearly didn't get to see after a crazy train experience.
We were to have a 6:00am train departure to Agra. Except that our train was delayed... more than 5 hours! So, the tour leader decided to catch a different train going to Agra (another train that was also delayed, maybe from the night before). However, we did not have confirmed seats, so it was a bit tricky to find out in which train compartment we had to go in. So we all ended up running to get in the train while it was already moving. That's right a group of 12 people, running and trying to all get in. Although I was not the last one to get in luckily but for some of the group it was pretty close call. The tour leader got a bit worried we would not make it especially as the train staff kept trying to unload our bags and quickly as the porters tried to load them! So what is the solution; well Chandra pulled
the emergency break of the train. The whole thing was bit scary, because if for some reason the last few people would not have made it, we would have lost the rest of the group, not had tickes and who know when would be the next train to Agra!
Anyway, good thing we got to Agra on time and before sunset, to see the Taj Mahal. Otherwise we would have not been able to see it at all, since on Fridays it is closed and we arrived on Thursday afternoon, and were leaving for Delhi next day. So the powers that be looked after us and we got to see the beautiful Taj Mahal.
The
Taj Mahal (also "the Taj") is considered the finest example of Mughal architecture, a style that combines elements from Persian, Turkish, Indian, and Islamic architectural styles. Built in 1631, Shah Jahan, emperor during Mughal's period of greatest prosperity, was griefstricken when his third wife, Mumtaz Mahal, died during the birth of their fourteenth child.
While the white domed marble mausoleum is most familiar, Taj Mahal is an integrated complex of structures that was completed around 1648. Ustad Ahmad Lahauri is generally considered
as the principal designer of Taj Mahal.
The Taj Mahal is defiantely beautiful, elaborate and very white but I was surprised to find it smaller than imagined. But dispite been smaller than expected it no the less impressive for it especially with its perfect symmetry - if you ignore the placement of the Kings tomb alongside his Queens. Could make a comment about trust a man to mess things up but I won't! ;-)
To walk around the tomb you either have to remove your shoes or don a very fetching pair of white covers reminiscent of something from the TV show 'Scrubs' . Good for a laugh Lilly and I donned a pair and proudly modelled them off as we walked around the main dome of the Taj Mahal.
Lilly and I wandered around the complex for several hours, stopping for some time to try and get the shot that we had seen advertised by the photographers of picking up the Taj.
Then looking around we found a vantage point to watch the sunset which unfortunately due to misty (read smoggy) skies was a bit of a non event and failed to cast the red
fire glow seen on many post cards. We lingered on after dark to see if the Taj Mahal would be lit up and glow white against the night sky but with no lights it slowly faded into a dull white outline in the night.
The next morning we planned on taking a early morning boat trip across the river to view sunrise over the Taj Mahal. But been India the boatman failed to turn up and we were left stood on the rubbish strewn banks of the Ganges just beneath the walls of the Taj Mahal as dawn broke, which again a bit of a non event as far as sunrises go. The time spent on the banks left me gasping with amazement as person after person would come down to the Holy Ganges put their hands together in prayer and then as they turned to leave they would discard into the waters yesterdays rubbish. More holy mess than a holy river and it left me wondering if they treat there most sacred and holiest river this way what else is done....
Afterwards and before leaving Agra we made a trip to see its Red Fort, some say
the fort rivals and even surpasses Delhi Red Fort.
The fort is also known as Lal Qila, Fort Rouge and
Red Fort of Agra. It is about 2.5 km northwest of its much more famous sister monument, the Taj Mahal. The fort can be more accurately described as a walled palatial city.
It is the most important fort in India. The great Mughals Babur, Humayun, Akbar, Jehangir, Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb lived here, and the country was governed from here. It contained the largest state treasury and mint. It was visited by foreign ambassadors, travellers and the highest dignitaries who participated in the making of history in India.
The fort is large and impressive and oh very very RED! It was a bit of a whistle stop tour around this large site but with an excellent guide we managed to see all the key areas and learn lots about the history of the place including the imprisonment of the the king, Shah Jahan, by his son, Aurangzeb, in the fort - a punishment which might not seem so harsh, considering the luxury of the fort. It is rumored that Shah Jahan died in Muasamman Burj, a tower
with a marble balcony with an excellent view of the Taj Mahal.
Some of the most historically interesting mixing of Hindu and Islamic architecture are found here. In fact, some of the Islamic decorations feature haraam (forbidden) images of living creatures - dragons, elephants and birds, instead of the usual patterns and calligraphy seen in Islamic surface decoration. And also a decorative panel combining symbols of many religions as well as Hindu and Islams there are symbols of Christianity and Jewism within the intricate patterns.
I would like to have stayed longer at the Fort but our overland tour involved a visit to a local
carpet making company to demonstrate the skills and effort that goes into making a handwoven Indian carpet, where even a small rug can take 2 months of careful weaving. It was fascinating to watch the weavers and designers at work and to see the intricate and unique finished products laid out before us. No wonder some members of the group were tempted to make a purchase before we left.
Though we nearly didn't leave Agra when the bus we planned on taking to Delhi was cancelled 1/2 hour before we were due
to leave. Chandra pulled the rabbit out of the hat though and managed to secure 2 air conditioned vehicles to get us to Delhi on time for some members of the group to catch their flights home.
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