MADRAS, INDIA

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India is one of the most fascinating countries in the world and also one of the most challenging for travelers. Madras is no exception. The colonial name of Madras has been replaced with Chennai. I guess once Madras jackets went out of style, the city decided to change its name also. Actually Chennai is the Indian name rather than the colonial name and it was changed in 1996.

Upon arrival, we realized that our ship was docked in the middle of the coal port rather than at the container port or passenger terminal port. Well there actually is no cruise terminal, so here we are in the middle of a slag heap. The air was so thick with coal dust that the ship's staff had to take immediate action. All of the carpeted entryways were covered in clear plastic, the outdoor dining venues were closed and most of the furniture cushions were moved indoors. The ships rails were black and the ping pong table was so covered in soot that the balls turned black when we played a game. We have used our balcony in some very adverse weather conditions but the pollution even drove us indoors. It was like Goa on steroids!

After a three hour clearance procedure we took a shuttle into town and hired a car and driver to show us around. We were surprised to learn that the Apostle Thomas (the doubting one) spent about 20 years in Madras. We saw the church that is dedicated to his memory. We went to the long beach where many Indians bathe in the ocean. The 2004 Christmas tsunami struck here and swept many morning bathers out to sea.

The following day we took an eight hour tour which was out into the countryside--that was a good move. We visited Kalakshetra where classical Indian dance is taught. The dance style is a cross between western ballet and Balinese story dancing. The athleticism of the dancers is amazing. We continued along the Coromandel Coast to visit the temples at Mahabalipuram. Part of this vast complex was only discovered when the tsunami shifted the seabed exposing some long lost structures. This 6th century Hindu holy site is a marvel to behold. The hawkers were out in force with some beautiful and inexpensive tourist curios.

After a great lunch at the Taj Fisherman's Cove Resort we made our last stop at Dakshinnachitra. This art village has weavers, potters and wood crafters displaying their ancient skills and selling their wares.

The following morning, after a lengthy departure procedure, we set sail, anxious to breathe some fresh sea air. Many passengers had a difficult time in this port. The heat, smog, traffic, poverty and squalor are exacerbated by an exploding population. Chennai is a tough place to love. But the Indian people are absolutely amazing and charming—with the possible exception of the bureaucrats. And “Incredible India” is one of the most exotic and photogenic places in the world. As our friend Norm said "India is not to be enjoyed, it is to be experienced."

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Photos

Bas relief
The largest in the world.

A Memento of Madras
From our balcony railing

Comments

[Shirley Lyon]

best memento of Madras
LOVED your sooty hand print! It would be a great conversation piece, framed & hung!

[Betsy Rosenheimer]

From white ship to rust bucket
Interesting to hear your story about the coal port and it's effects on the ship and passengers. Several years ago we had a similar experience in Venezuela. We were in an iron ore port where we were to visit Angel Falls. Our ship (Oceania Insignia) was gleaming white when we entered the port. All around us were ships being loaded with iron ore. As you can imagine, the dust was powerful. Many passengers had breathing problems and everything was covered in dark red dust. The crew assigned to issue passes on the gangplank had to wear masks. When we left port the following day we looked like an old rust bucket. Needless to say, I have not noticed Oceania using this port again.

[Carol Beck]

Misc
Loved the India blog. Kevin's pics are great. The agressive peddler was of particular note, for we sure experienced our share in Viet Nam/Cambodia. Maybe those folks are learning from the Indians. Cheers!