From Jaisalmer to Luni

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We rose after our camel adventure the next morning to make our way through Rajasthan at a fast clip. From now on, the hotels and towns would come at us quickly -- one night in each for a quick taste of the neighbourhood.

Our wonderful driver, Dallat (sounds like dollop), has been a real blessing. We will have had him for our sole pleasure for six days by the time we are done. This is much better than changing drivers and guides every day or two. In fact, not having a guide as well has been a bit of a welcome relief. Dallat practices his English on us and, we think, it is improving as he gets used to the four silly women. He laughs at his own little jokes ("That camel crazy." "Those monkeys crazy.") and he even laughs at ours, which of course are hysterical...

Leaving Jaisalmer with carefully doctored stomaches (especially poor Larrye and less so me and Tiina. Sandi's iron stomach is holding its own right now), we headed for the longer drive to Luni, just an hour outside of Jodhpur. This meant we were retracing our steps back down the same good highway and had an opportunity to return to the village and drop off shampoo for the kids and women. We were very clear that Dallat was to do it -- not us. We are loath to add to the problem of begging in this country being rewarded by pale skinned interlopers. The same kids greeted us and swarmed the car with big smiles.

We continued through to Luni and stayed at a wonderful old fort, Fort Chanwa, that like many of these old places has been converted for high end tourists and, a never ending stream of tour buses. We are so glad to be travelling in a small group. The fort was amazing -- I had a very different massage by a woman trained in Karala, famed for its massages. I opted out of the kind where oil is dripped in a steady stream on your forehead for a more pedestrian one. We had a beautiful courtyard between the two rooms for our own use and spent a pleasant time reading quietly and enjoying the views and yet another perfect Indian sunset.

The restaurant was adequate but the food was not up to the very high standards we are getting accustomed to. On checking out, however, when we filled out the requisite rating sheet and ranked the food as "average", I was asked by the front desk man to change my rating to "good" and initial the change so the owner would not get angry. Fair enough -- happy to oblige, but so much for open review!

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