On the Edge of the Thar Desert

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Our anticipated driving time from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer was to be 7 1/2 hours in total. We were not looking forward to it.

However, it turns out the trip is a mere four hours. 300 kms in India should take more -- we average less than 40kmh so far on the trip. How could a 75kph be possible?

Well we found out. Jaisalmer is 120 kms from the Pakistan border. Along the road from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer, we passed countless military vehicles, barracks, firing ranges and so on. So, the road -- a mostly empty one through increasingly barren but wildly beautiful desert -- is in impeccable condition. Fresh paved sections abound, two wide lanes all the way and largely straight. It was a dream. We hit speeds of 100 kmh -- flying, we were.

Our trip was interesting. Had a nice lunch at a camel camp/resort and then stopped in a village to meet some locals with our driver, Doelot, keen to show us off. The women of the village were most generous -- offering us tea and content to have us see the different spaces in which they operate their lives. The kids clamoured for pens, shampoo, money and candy, none of which we had with us. They loved looking at their pictures on the digital cameras, though, and it built a bond between us. We spent about forty-five minutes there and proceeded on our way, richer for the experience.

We drove into Jaisalmer as the sun had completed setting and the sky was purple. The fort, in which 4,000 people live, was beautifully lit as we approached -- magic.

Our hotel was quite spectacular in many ways. Our rooms were pleasant, but we peeked into the neighbouring room and discovered a veritable palace.

In the morning, we awaited our guide, Vishall, to meet us. A fine young man whose family had lived inside the fort since the 1600's. Of the warrior class, his family owned land inside the fort. As we waited, MIGs flew overhead -- reminding one how close we were to Pakistan and the state of anxiety between the two countries.

We had a busy, pleasant day and had some quiet time at the hotel to read and contemplate swimming.

At 5:00 we headed out by car for the 40 km drive to the deeper desert (and 80 kms from the border -- to go much further, you need government permission). We boarded camels and headed into the desert. Sandi had warned that they are tough to mount, but I found it surprisingly easy and pleasant -- lean WAY back and hope for the best. I was obsessing all day -- English or Western? Neck-reined or not? I needn't have wondered -- I was led like a child at a zoo on a pony! Young boys looped strings over their hands and walked in front of each camel. It was a lot of fun, if not a bit tamer than even I was prepared for.

We marched into the dunes and gathered to watch all and sundry gather on different dunes. It was a spectacle -- dancing gypsies, musicians looking for tips. It was fun.

We watched the sun set and then mounted our camels for the trot back to the car (okay, so my young boy ran and the camel trotted!). It was a very special memory despite the touristy feel to it all.

Sometimes, we forget that we are indeed tourists. And yet, it is so obviuos to all!

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