Dunes and dromedaries

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Our sojourn in Jodhpur was over after a brief visit to the Umaid Bhawan Palace and museum and a jaunt around the lush fort gardens, which can be traversed by flying fox if you’re more in the mood for action than reflection. The zip line continues down over ramparts and reservoir!



Charged with (nervous) anticipation and bags repacked for the overnight safari, we headed to the perimeter of the Thar desert in Osiyan, where we joined Reggie Singh’s camel camp crew for a quick bite “cause ride is bumpy” before setting out on our adventure with Rajput camel drovers Raju and Dungan Singh. Anxious to avoid an asthma attack Jill started on the camel cart where she was serenaded with local ballads and instructed in the flora and fauna of the desert. Before we knew what we were doing we were taking our lives in our hands, sitting with a family in rags taking tea, served in a chipped, dirty to Jill and stainless steel saucers. Desperate times call for desperate measures; we popped Travelan chased by an Aquatab and said our prayers as one of the many children raced to the well for water. Arriving at our mobile campsite shortly before sundown, we received a royal welcome and our staff of five (or six, or seven?) stood around as we inspected the ingenious facilities, strolled and lounged in director’s chairs recalibrating our bodyclocks while the sun set. Silence reigned supreme in the desert at dusk and we imbibed the tranquility liberally, huddled around the campfire under a full moon.



While we slept in a luxurious tent complete with beds and separate bathroom (sand shovel “flush” toilet and bucket-fed sink) the room, boy, waiter, cook etc. bunked down in the open sided dining area L Five nights exposure to the chill of winter tested their endurance, but still they refused our extra blankets.

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