BobBillBat

An early start finds us heading through the city around 9am for the steep climb up to the three forts dominating the sky line: Amber (1592) Jaigarh (1726) and Nahargarh (1734). The forts occupy a spectacular hilltop location several kilometres outside Jaipur in the former seat of the Rajas: Amer. Govind waited patiently while we explored the labyrinthine passages of the former but tried to persuade us the latter was closed. Fortunately we had spied people there while drinking in the stunning views of the old walls as they snake across the rugged landscape and persuaded him to head on up the mountain. Fresh air was in abundance here, unlike on the murky city streets, and we got a workout covering the 3km x 1km of extensive ramparts and palace buildings, which are connected by subterranean ... read more

Avoid western style breakfasts while in India. Good advice! The thickness of our pancakes promises to see us through the day and repair the sole of my right shoe. We leave Harasar Haveli and make for the Junagarh fort, a little apprehensive after Jaisalmer’s underwhelming palace complex. Once Rob has managed to record over the audio tour with a few directions on how to use the device, we get underway. Apprehension is replaced by respect. Respect for the stylish, well maintained buildings, respect for the excellent exhibits and awe inspiring “frescoes”, respect for the peaceful environment, until the schoolgirls’ outing arrives. The first of many photos with the white “ferenghi” is requested. Jill is hard pressed to get away as one teenager after another pulls her in close admonishing her friend to get a good photo ... read more

A fairytale vision in the desert gives way to tourist traps, crumbling facades and muck on the dusty city streets. Somewhat reluctantly we “cough up” the 600 Rupee entry fee and mandatory camera charge then head into the modest “Palace” complex armed with audio guide. Short on accessible buildings and museum displays the palace has honed the mythical angle of its history, quickly dispenses with the rudimentary “palanquin, sword, throne” and filling the void with fabulous fabrication and speculation. Is that stone swan really drinking pearls of milk flowing from the lactating mother’s breast down her lustrous locks? With aplomb the dearth of artifacts is compensated for through flights of fancy. Exhibits holding the greatest promise: stamp, coin and sword collection, were apparently behind securely padlocked doors and on enquiry the indolent attendant replied, � ... read more

The early morning air was invigorating, but this far from the city smog we basked in sunshine as we washed in our separate (warm!) shower cubicle. Perhaps not surprisingly, breakfast Sahib-style broke with the standard regime of parantha, curd and pickles and was all the more welcome given that we’ve eaten the same fare three times a day since our arrival. As much as we have enjoyed “going native”, saturation point is nigh and neither of us feel an imminent Jai Ho hit upon our return home! We made haste to strike out further into the desert, in order to complete the circuit by mid-afternoon. Working on the basis that she was more exposed to the unsolicited advances of our dromedary friends’ (Moti & Ranshev) ticks in the cart, Jill decided to try her hand negotiating ... read more

Our sojourn in Jodhpur was over after a brief visit to the Umaid Bhawan Palace and museum and a jaunt around the lush fort gardens, which can be traversed by flying fox if you’re more in the mood for action than reflection. The zip line continues down over ramparts and reservoir! Charged with (nervous) anticipation and bags repacked for the overnight safari, we headed to the perimeter of the Thar desert in Osiyan, where we joined Reggie Singh’s camel camp crew for a quick bite “cause ride is bumpy” before setting out on our adventure with Rajput camel drovers Raju and Dungan Singh. Anxious to avoid an asthma attack Jill started on the camel cart where she was serenaded with local ballads and instructed in the flora and fauna of the desert. Before we knew ... read more

After a modest but wholesome breakfast of parantha, curd and pickles we headed directly to the famous Meherangarh fort, an imposing edifice on the city skyline. Feral dogs, which seem as commonplaceas stray cows in this country, bask in the sunshine on the rugged red sandstone near the Jaswant Thada white marble memorial to Jaswant Singh II where we make a brief stop. The current Maharaja Gaj Singh II, whose investiture at the premature of 4 is well documented, has taken his role as custodian seriously and the result is a well restored complex of Chowks (squares), courtyards and Mahals (palaces,) which function as a comprehensive museum of royal artifacts from palanquins, howdahs, armour, swords and daggers, to cribs, clothing and paintings. Walking through the labyrinth of corridors, staircases and arched doorways yielding surprise... read more