India- Delhi, Kashmir, Jaipur, Pushkar, Udaipur, Agra, Varanassi, Goa, Bangalore

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March 4, 2008

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

I am going to start off describing India like I did China. India is !%?@ but deserved of another ?!£#! and another #!£#~. This place is full on, over the top, just basically nuts! I went to Delhi, Srinagar (Kashmir), Jaipur, Pushkar, Udaipur, Agra (Taj Mahal),Varanasi, Mumbai, Goa and Bangalore. I liked Pushkar, Udaipur and Goa. The other places were just a little too crazy for me.

I have been to 27 countries now and I had more crazy stuff happen here than all the other countries combined. A few of the crazy things follow: I was involved in a bus crash one night, where the windshield on our bus was completely broken out and then the driver tried to outrun the other bus as the other driver wanted to talk (yell at him). Finally the other bus got us pinned in such a way on the interstate that we could not get around him. They yelled at each other for about 30 minutes at 4:00 in the morning with no hazard lights on and big trucks and buses going around us. He drove the remaining 4 hours of the trip with no windshield.

In Varanasi I was in a auto rickshaw (a small 3 wheeled taxi in India) crash and the guy was driving crazy and I told him to slow down. I can stomach some of this kind of driving, but this was suicidal. He looked back at me and said he had been drinking and smoking. I did not know if he was joking or telling the truth. A few minutes later he hit this concrete wall and we bounced off that and I yelled at him again and told him to slow this thing down. He didn't. He then hit another rickshaw and I knew I had to get out of this rickshaw. He hit a second rickshaw really hard, which slowed us down enough that I could jump out. He never knew I had even jumped out.

Varanasi is the holiest City in India, where Indians come to die and then their ashes, if they can afford to buy wood, or their body if not incinerated, is dumped into the Ganges River, the holiest river in India. Clear as mud or clear as the Ganges? Anyway one night I am sitting in a computer lab and I hear these chants and there is a body being paraded past me just outside this door about 10 ft. away. I am thinking," Toto this is not Kansas" a common thought I had throughout India. They paraded about 7 bodies past me during the 60 minutes I was in this computer lab. The same night I am laying in bed and the ceiling fan started making a weird noise so I shut it off and felt it and it was hot. I figured the bearings were going out of it, so I shut it off and opened the window as it was really hot. A few minutes later the smoke from the incineration place right next door started filling the room. I ended up just closing the window and sweating the rest of the night. I remember thinking about this place and how it seams like a cheap horror movie, but it was actually happening. I also thought a lot about being back home on my sailboat watching the sunset. I had to some way get my mind out of Varanasi.

The poverty is unbelievable. I had a kid in Varanasi ask me if I wanted to go watch the bodies burn and of course he wanted money to take me there. The burning is in public view and everyone there sees it without a guide. I read too where in Mumbai they have tours taking you through the slums. Anything to make money or to survive.

I got scammed in Delhi and took a tour to Kashmir, which was crazy. You stay on houseboats and they tell you not to talk to any other tourist. They tried to get me to stay in this guys house on land the first night and I complained and told him I had paid for a room on a boat not in a house. They also do not let you go anywhere unless a local was with you. They say it is for your safety, but it is because the people want commission if you buy something from a business. It was really a weird experience. I ended up buying my way out of the rest of the tour as I did not want my India travels to be in the hands of this travel agency. I am only telling a little bit of my experiences in Kashmir and Delhi. It is a very long story. You could not trust anyone in India, which is what 3 different locals told me. Do not trust anyone in India. In another scam I told the people I wanted a cheap hotel room and they said they have a room for 450 rupees, which is $12.50. I normally paid $10 or less. The guy showed me 2 rooms and I picked the room with AC. The next morning I went to check out and the bill was 750 rupees. I told them they said 450 rupees and they said no you picked the room that was 750 rupees. They had never mentioned 750 until now. I argued with them for 30 minutes before they finally saw things from my perspective. The scams are everywhere. I could talk for hours about all the crap they tried to pull to get your money. I have never been in a situation in my entire life like this, where you could not trust anyone. I never worried about physical harm like you would in the United States.

In Goa I met two Iranian women, a Russian couple, three people from Maldives and I met several Polish. It is great meeting all these folks. All very nice people. Of course you see lots of Europeans as well. Germans and English are everywhere. I see quite a few Americans as well.

Goodbye India. I am very happy to be leaving this place!


PERSONAL JOURNAL FOLLOWS (not edited)
3-4-08
The midnight flight to Qatar was quite interesting with all the Chinese construction workers on the flight. I kept hearing this beeping noise over my head pretty much the whole flight and at first thought I was hitting a button accidentally. I asked the flight attendant what was going on and she said it is them doing it referring to all these workers who all wore orange coats. She said they do not know what the buttons do so they just press them all. The stewardesses were from all over the world. South Africa, India and Sri Lanka were all represented. I asked the guy stewardess from India what kind of wines and I first said a red would be great and then said no lets go with white and he gave me both bottles and he said your going to need them in referring to all the Chinese workers on this flight.

The Chinese are aggressive and when it is time to do something they always try to be first in line. I was talking to the stewardess from South Africa at the end of the flight and told her as soon as this flight land it is going to be chaos as all these Chinese are going to get up and get there language. As soon as the wheels hit the ground about 5 stood up the stewardesses kept telling them to sit back down but they wouldn't listen. I was surprised not more of them didn't stand up but they didn't. There was a Chinese guy got up soon after everyone else did and said something in Chinese and that seemed to quell the movement. I was really surprised as when the plane did stop they did not all jump up but stayed on the plane until everyone else got off. I guess the guy must have said something to them.

The flight to Daho was just shy of 10 hours. I had no Katar currency and learned they took lots of currencies, but no currency from China, which is all I had. A person at the restaurant said at 6:00 am a person gives you a voucher for a free meal if your wait between flights is more than 5 hours. Mine was per the ticket 4:50 minutes but we arrived early so technically I did have more than a 5 hour wait. I typed until I could get my free meal which worked out fine. They gave me a chicken burger and some other od that was not too good but I was hungry nad had no usable money so I ate.

It was interesting they had a quiet area where I assume the muslims take their shoes off and go in and pray. I wanted to take a picture as this is something I have never seen but thouhgt it might be disrespectful so I didn't.

Got on the flight and since the liquor was free decided to have two Scotchs. I have never drank much scotch but I would give it a whirl. It was ok and was strong as I felt like I had a little bit of a buzz.

3-4-08 (Da Lake)
After 15 hours of flying in the last 20 hours I was glad for the plane to be touching down. I was arriving in Delhi after a 10 hour flight from Beijing to Qatar with a 5 hour layover there, then a 5 hour flight from Qatar to Delhi. As we flew over Delhi the cityscape was a little depressing. The predominant color was brown. The land appeared brown, the buildings brown, the air brown. I did see a structure that appeared to be somewhat nice and of interest but how could I be sure at 5,000 ft. Besides that object, which I figured had to have religious significance, everything else was depressing.

I had read the Lonely Planet briefly on the flight in and the overriding theme appeared to be scams. Be careful of this, watch for that, do not do that. Lonely Planet has warnings though for pretty much every place I have been to. Why should I be any more worried here than any other place I have visited in the last year and two months. I have made it this long without any major problems why worry more now?

I had my plan, I was going to get a prepaid taxi as instructed by Lonely Planet. As I got off the plane I realized I was at the most dilapidated airport of my entire travels. There were signs apologizing for the mess, but promising a bright future for this country of 1.1 billion. There was scaffolding and men working and I was always looking above as the work crews did not appear to be the most careful lot. After checking through customs I got my bag and headed for the exits. I saw a couple younger travelers and asked them if they had a game plan and I told them mine and invited them along if they wished. They said sure and we all got money from the ATM as none of us had any currency. I went out and got a prepaid taxi to Hotel Rak International. It was very near the train station. The 3 other passengers included a German guy, who had been to India before and two English women. The German guy had been to India before but the rest of us had not. He said Delhi is crap, there is nothing to see, and he was going directly to the train station and get on the first train out of there to Darjeerling. Darjeerling is a mountain town nestled in the Himalayans, that I wanted to go to as well. He said he was wanting to get up there and do some Yoga. He invited us along as well. The English girls said they might do the same thing. I was thinking how can the English women having never been here before completely skip the biggest City in India and not even spend a day looking around. I told them I was going to spend at least a day here.

The hotel I was staying at was right near the train station so I told the driver to drop me off there. As soon as you get out of the taxi you are hounded by people wanting to help you! They want to help you find a hotel, find a tour, help you find your train. Of course there is always a little something in it for them as well.

I had read Lonely Planet earlier and they suggested you go to the tourist office on the second floor to get your ticket. The helpful man there though got to the German guy and said he would show them to the ticket office and before long we were walking with him. I told the English women this is exactly what you should not be doing, as the German guy walked with his new found friend. I was just trying to help these folks along and I wanted to see how the train tickets worked as well as I would need to be doing this soon as well. I was startled as to how well these India people spoke English. They spoke it better than I did, and I am a native speaker.

The Indian guy directed us to a line and we were standing in it. I asked the guy why he was helping us? He said sir you can trust me I am just here helping. He had no name tag of any kind or official badge or armband or anything. This guy was just off the street. I told one of the English women that people do not just walk off the street to help you out of the kindness of there heart India. I told her I was not getting a ticket anyway so if they did not mind I was going to walk to my hotel. They said that was fine and I walked away from there thinking these folks are well on there way to being scammed.

I walked back into the chaos called Delhi train station and into the chaos called Main Baazar. In India Baazars mean market and the Main Bazaar in Delhi was just that, the most popular and craziest one of all. What am I doing starting out here? Here I was walking through the Main Baazar with my backpack on dodging, cows and there dung, people, rickshaws, bicycles, motor scooters and motorcycles and other contraptions that had motors that do not have an English word to describe it. I looked for Hotel Rak International through the incessant objects darting towards and around me with the sound of hellos coming from the nearby shop salesman wanting to tell me about their "Good Quality" goods. The smells were many with the most overwhelming one was the smell of livestock. I thought back to my uncles farm realizing I was a long way from Illinois Dorothy. I saw some dogs but none of them were Jake or Sam the dogs I know. I did not even see a dog looking like Dorothys whose name is Toto. I would say though this place could be referred to as an Oz as it definitely has a mysterious feel to it.

After much confusion I saw the sign that said Hotel Rak International and walked up the alley towards the hotel. The traffic in the alley was less than in the main street, but I did come across a few cows and their dung. It felt good to be stepping into the hotel room and hoping they had room, and that the rate was reasonable. The room rate was about 50 rubies more than what Lonely Planet indicated but that only amounts to a little over $10 so I took it after seeing that it was satisfactory, meaning no rats or bugs in sight upon cursory inspection.

After laying down for about an hour I headed outside to see what was out there. I met an English guy and an American or Canadian woman and they invited me out with them for dinner. We picked a nearby restaurant, which is nothing like what western restaurants are like. Nothing appears clean and I just wondered what the food would be like. I wanted to experience the culture though so I was going to eat here. I had some chicken in a curry with rice and some chai tea. Another man stopped by recognizing the lady we were with and he joined us. From there we went to see the new guys hotel, which he said was nice and we wanted to see what it would cost for all of us to rent a taxi to go to the Taj Mahal together the next day.

We left the restaurant and arrived at the hotel. The travel agent there gave us a price and it was more than the other folks wanted to pay. I talked to him about things to do around India and I told him I wanted to see the Himalayas. He said I needed to go to north western Indhia to see the Himalayas. I told him I was considering Darjeerling he said no, you have to go here to see the real Himalayans and pointed to the map of the area to go for that. Lonely Planet had not suggested this area, but this guy was a local maybe he knew. I told him I was not going to purchase anything just was looking around.

From there we headed to a bar, but I was running out of steam. I have slept maybe 3 hours in the last 24 hours and was jet lagged and really needed to get some sleep. I thanked them for inviting me along and headed back to the hotel. The Main Baazar was still crazy as ever and it was nice to get to my hotel, which gave me a temporary refuge from this chaos just outside.

3-5-08 (Da Lake)
I slept decent but still suffered from the jet lag and could only sleep to about 7 when I felt wide awake. I showered, dressed and had a breakfast at the hotels rooftop restaurant. Again this is a place with a couple chairs and small tables over looking old down trodden buildings all around you. Nothing looked clean, but what I was going to do the next month, not eat? I had a chai tea and some eggs. The food was ok and the chai tea really seemed to wake me up and give me a good positive feeling. I headed out into the chaos, which was subdued at this hour.

As I walked on the street a rickshaw driver pulled up and I told him I was not interested in a ride. He was a kid in his early 20's wearing a ball cap. I wondered why I was not wearing a ball cap, but I thought to respect other countries way of life I would not wear one. Here he is wearing one. He stayed there and seemed friendly and ask where I was from. He said he knew a person in the states and mentioned the place to be New York City. After talking to this guy for 10 minutes I decided to have him take me to the tourist information center and I showed him the location on the map. The price was only 20 rubies so I thought it must be close.

We soon arrived to Connaught place the location of the tourist information office. I went to pay him, but he said he would wait for me. I thought that was a little weird but maybe they have time on there side. He probably figures if he waits here for awhile he will pretty much be assured another job whereas if he takes off he might not find another job within that same time period. It all made since to me.

As I walked towards the office it said India Tourism Delhi and right before it there was an abbreviated word reg. Which I thought maybe meant registered, but was not sure. I wondered if this was actually the tourist place. I walked in and told them right off that I do not think this is the place I wanted to be as I was just wanting to go to the tourist office and talk about what to do during my stay in Delhi. They said they could help me with that. I decided it would not hurt to sit down and talk with these folks to get ideas. I told him the three places that I knew I wanted to go to and they were Agra, to see the Taj Mahal,Varanassi, the most sacred City in India and Darjeeling, to see the Himalyans. The guy I was talking to Safi,whose English was really good, said no the Himalayans are here in Kashmir. You want to go to Kashmir to see the Himalayans that is where the real Himalayans are not in Darjeeling. In Darjeeling all they have is tea. He explained all the other things to do which includeded many stops in Rajastahn which appeared to be the most touristy stop. He showed me handwritten letters from people from all over the world that had been on this trip. Most of the letters started out something with, I was the most skeptical traveler ever and always worried about getting ripped off and I took Safi's tour and went to Kashmir and had a great time. Other letters would say do not believe what you read in Lonely Planet about Kashmir as the place is very safe. You will have a great time. He must of had 30 handwritten letters in there all saying similar things like how cautious the author of the letter was and how they had a great time on the trip. I took it all with a grain of salt. He then said if you want to talk to an American woman who has been on this trip I can call her for you and she will talk to you about her experiences. I said ok and he called her. When she first answered she must have reasked who he was and he reiterated I am Safi you booked a tour with us to Kashmir remember. He said he has an American guy here that would like to talk to you about your trip to Kashmir. She said the trip was great and how she was skeptical about the trip, but it turned out fabulous. She said she had went last Fall. I was quite convinced that this trip would be very cool. I hung up with her feeling that the trip would be quite fun.

Safi and I talked more and he wrote down a potential itinerary. He said if we hurry up we can get you on a plane to Kasmir today yet. He said you will have your own personal driver, who will show you around and drop you off at your hotel. I asked him if I found someone to travel with me is that ok. He said that is fine. I thought maybe I could get someone to help share the cost. He said the person could not stay in the same hotel room as that would cost more money. He said he wanted to be very clear with what was included and what wasn't. That is what I wanted too. He put down a price of $1,437. He said for 21 days on this trrip I would be paying $60 a day. That sounded like a lot, but the fact that I would have my own driver for the whole time who would coordinate all my pickups and my hotels also sounded kind of good. Essentially I thought these folks would keep me out of scams and all I had to do was see India. I was already feeling a little stressed having just come from China and Vietnam two crazy places and this all sounded pretty good. I told him I was not going to book a tour with you without looking at a friends email who suggested places for me to go while in India. She is from Stockholm and actually bought a place here in India in Varanasi. I asked him if I could use his computer to check my email. He said that is fine. My friends email said I should go every place this guy was recommending except Kashmir was not mentioned. That did not surprise me as there were no mountainous areas mentioned at all. I felt more comfortable than ever now as everthing just kept adding up. All the handwritten letters, the conversation with the American lady, the email, they had even showed me that they were registered with the Delhi Tourism Bureau. I could not find anything that appeared to be fraudulent. This would make my India travels so easy. He came back in and I ask him one last question. The guy brought me here are you paying him commission. He said no I do not even know the guy. I told him I did not believe him. The rickshaw driver I had specifically told him to take me to the tourist information office and he brought me to your office why else would this guy do that. He said I do not know he said he probably thought he was taking you to the right place. I told him point blank I do not believe you. He told me how he was a religious man and how he was a family man. He told me not to worry your my brother. He told me how at the end of the day you have to trust someone. I had thought that earlier in the conversation that I am going to have to trust someone in India and these guys sure seem legit. I said ok I am going to do this, but you had best be telling me the truth. He wrote on the envelope the words, "Keep Smiling" and underneath that "Good Luck" and to the side of these words he drew a smiley face. I paid with a credit card the $1,437. I argued with him about the amount as the amount he was entering onto the credit card appeared a little higher. He said the amount was for taxes that India requires on all packages. He said don't worry it is included in the number he had previously given. I was not following all that, but I said ok it wasn't a lot more.

After signing the credit card slip he said he had a plane for me at 1:00 and I would need to hurry up and get my stuff from my hotel and then hurry back. He said his driver would take me there, but he reiterated I needed to hurry. I walked outside and his driver in a nice car took me to the hotel I was staying at. The car on the back window said Love is in the Air. I thought that was nice saying.

The driver dropped me off and I ran to the hotel and got checked out and was back in the car heading back to Safi's office. When arriving Safi said he was unable to get one of the train tickets that was included in my package so I would have to spend the night because I needed all tickets with me. He said he would put me up in a nice hotel and his driver would take me around to show me the town this afternoon. I thought that was fine it would be nice to see Delhi before leaving. I told him too I wanted to talk to this American girl as well in person. He drove me across town where this American girl was and I talked to her for awhile.She was in this companies other office. She talked about the trip she took and how much fun she had. She said they took great care of her and the boat was nice. She said she only hiked a couple days but it was great and said she stayed with some gypsys. She said she even booked another trip with them for $2,000 driving around southern India. This all made me feel a little better and I thanked her and left.

We drove around and I told him I was hungry as it was 1:00 and I had a really small breakfast. He took me to a restaurant that appeared pretty nice. There was 10 rubee parking outside, which is $2.50 and he mentioned me paying for that. I said no I am not paying for that. There is not supposed to be any cost for you to drive me around. He said that I was wanting to the eat. I just walked into the restaurant. The items on the menu were quite expensive, but the driver said the food was very safe. A little later in the conversation the driver mentioned that the good thing about this place is the drivers get to eat free. I then realized why the food was so expensive I was paying for his meal. I was now starting to get a little angry. There were lots of other tourist in there as well. The drivers were taking everyone here for the meal. The cost of the meal was 430 rubees or about $11. That is quite expensive in India. Oh well. We went to Humayun's Tomb which was quite nice. He then said he wanted to take me to a place to see some shawls and other items. I said I wasn't interested in shopping. He said you do not have to buy just take a look. I said this is going to be very quick. I walked into this place half mad. The items were good but I was not interested in looking at this stuff. I walked out about 3 minutes later and the driver had walked somewhere but came back a couple minutes later. I told him he was just dropping me off there hoping I would buy something so he would get a commission. He said some times he does get a commission and it is based on how much the item cost. I was surprised he admitted that he does get commission. We then went to the Parliament building, and the National Musuem where I walked around for about 2 hours. It was interesting, but the displays were not that great and it was hot in there. Nothing like the museums of the western world. We then headed to India Gate and I walked around that for awhile. My patience was very low as I was very short with the people trying to sell me stuff. The driver took me to the hotel where I would be staying. Actually he dropped me off about a block away because it is a market area or baazar as they call them India. As I walked to the hotel I saw a travel agency that was booking tours to Kashmir and they were on me as soon as I walked by. I decided to talk to those folks awhile see if I could get a little more information on the state of Kashmir. I told them I already booked a trip and told them who with. They said they knew Safi and that he was a good man. During the conversation I learned these folks are from Kashmir and realized these guys are just coming down to get tourist to go to Kashmir. This alarmed me and I ask them if Safi was from Kashmir and they said yes he was. I was becoming more and more alarmed realizing I probably have just got into a scam. As I walked out of the office and into the street these guys ran to me and said do not tell Safi that you talked to us. I told them I would not.

The hotel was very nice which made me feel a little better about the trip I was going on. After taking things out of my backpack I decided to sit down and read a little about Kashmir in particular Srinagar the place I would be going the next day. As I read about this area I read the warnings that Lonely Planet gives you about going there, which I had read before. I was a little concerned about going there but not real concerned. Lonely Planet says it is a lot safer now than it has ever been. What alarmed me the most though was there was no talking about hiking around Srinagar as I had told Safi that is why I was going there to hike in the Himalayas. I had read on the plane that there was great hiking around Leh but new that area was closed this time of year. I also read more about Delhi and read where Lonely Planet says they do not recommend booking a tour from Delhi to Kashmir because of all the scams. I got increasingly worried and thought I needed to try and get out of this trip. I went to the front desk and called Safi as he had given me his home number and said to call anytime. I told him I wanted to talk to this American Girl. He said he would get her for me and I hung up. About 5 minutes a guy showed up at the hotel door. I was wondering how and why did this guy get here this fast. I told him I just wanted to talk to the American Girl and she was supposed to come here to meet me. He said the girl is out getting a massage and would not be back for awhile. He said come with me to the office and wait for them. This was the same office where I had talked to her before. It was about a 5 minute walk from the hotel where I was staying.

We went in and the guy offered me some coffee and ask me if I wanted to eat with them. He walked towards the back of the office and there were about 7 guys sitting there in the room. I told him I was not hungry I just came here to talk to the American Girl. He kept insisting I drink tea with them. I got really short with him and said I am going out to the waiting room to wait for the woman and left. He followed me to the waiting room and I said I was going to step outside to grab something to drink. He started to come with me and I told him I can handle this task without him. I was really starting to get tired of this guy. I sat there probably an hour and then a guy called a guy who was with the American lady as they all went for a massage. They were stuck in traffic and would be there in about 30 minutes. They told me an hour to begin with now we are up to 1.5 hours before their arrival.

There was a Russian Couple who came in the room. They were exhausted. They were great talking to and they ask the guy for some tea. They were traveling around India trying to meet the real people that live and travel there. They interviewed me and it lasted about 15 minutes. They ask very good questions. They then interviewed the guy there and he talked about how peaceful the Indian people were and how they were good people never hurting anyone. He then talked about how nice a place Kashmir is and how it is a great place for tourist to go. He used his interview to sell Kashmir. It seemed pretty pathetic to me.

Two hours had now passed and it was 10:00 pm. I told the guy it really does not matter what this American girl says I am going to be talking to Safi about the same thing regardless of what she says. I brought this fact up several times in the next 0.5 hour, but he just kept saying the same thing talk to the girl first. Finally after 2.5 hours of talking the girl showed up with another girl who I guess is English and another guy. I ask her in more detail about her trip and in particular about the hiking. She went in the fall of the year and said she only hiked a little and that was not the main focus of her trip. She mentioned other things she had done while there as well. I told the guy ok lets talk to Safi. I was growing more and more alarmed by everything and was becoming more and more afraid of what I had just gotten into.

Safi answered the phone and I told Safi that Lonely Planet does not even talking about hiking around Srinagar. When I walked into your office I told you I wanted to go trekking in Darjeeling in the Himalayans and you said the real trekking is in Kashmir and you said all that is in Darjeeling is tea farms. When I read about Darjeeling they talk about trekking, but in Srinagar nothing about hiking. He said you have to drive a ways to get to the hiking. I was getting real perturbed. I told him I wanted my money back as I can see where this is going. He got really loud on the phone and started shouting and said I could only get 0.5 of my money back as that is what the contract says. I came unglued knowing I was in a scam and threw the phone down. The noise the phone made when hitting the ground sounded a lot louder than it should have sounded. I looked outside and saw the Russian couple who were just leaving look inside, I looked at the American woman and saw a really peculiar look on her face and it appeared a tear drop in her eye and then a guy came running down the hallway screaming and started yelling at another guy about me. For some reason he never really looked at me. Things were a mess in there for a few minutes and then this Safi guy called back on another guys cell phone in the office and they started screaming at each other on the phone. Finally a guy came and said we need to calm down and after a few minutes I went back to his office with the two women and talked about the trip for about an hour. The two women assured me everything would be fine. They English lady appeared to be a stoner with the tone of her voice the American girl didn't though. I told the guy I wanted to hike and Lonely Planet doesn't even talk about hiking. He told me if you do not like things when you get there I will pay for your filght back and made a few other promises. He called Safi and the two of them argued on the phone shouting and yelling. Man these guys are always yelling. He said Safi does not want to pay for your flight back, but I will argue for you if you do not like something. The women just said you should get on that plane in the morning and just see for yourself. You are going to have a wonderful time. I was feeling a little assured by now and said ok I have to go think about this some more.

A guy walked me back to the hotel. I did not know what to think. Should I get on that plane in the morning or not. I decided to get up early and check the State Departments Website to see what they say about travel to Kashmir and would send emails to a couple folks just so they knew where I was heading and give them the name of the boat I would be staying on. This whole deal was getting more and more creepy by the moment. I had all but decided I would get on the plane and see what happens. I had already had all this money invested in the trip. As long as the United Consulates office did not have something definitive about tourist traveling there I was going to go. Good night from the Ivory Palace where I would be sleeping only a few hours tonight. It was already after 12:00.


3-6-08 (Dal Lake)
I got up around 5:15 a half hour before I needed to get up so I would have plenty of time to use the internet. I showered and got everything packed and jumped on the internet. The Consulate Offices web site said that no United States Employees working in India were allowed to go to the Kashmir Region. It said there has been political unrest and bombings in the past. This is essentially the same thing that Lonely Planet had said. I decided I will give it a whirl. The driver showed up, the same one I had the day before all smiling perky. It really was beginning to make me quite lethargic. As we took off I realized I had forgotten my camera at the computer as I often take pictures of the computer screens to save the emails and knew I left it there so he turned around and hurried back. I stormed into the building and told them I left the camera by the computer and ran over there and it wasn't there. The guy then at the front desk showed me the camera. I am not sure why he didn't not say anything but he didn't. I suspect he was planning to keep a worn out camera as it has been used extensively over the past year and two months the time I have been traveling. I jumped back in the car and we were off again. The traffic was not too bad this time in the morning and we made it to the airport about 1.5 hours before the flight. The driver said I needed to leave him a tip. I told him why, I thought everything was included. He mumbled something about needing gas money. Yesterday he had told me he was supporting 8 people in his family. They know how to play the sympathetic card. I looked in my billfold and grabbed a couple 10's and he said 100 ruby minimum. I laughed and handed him a 50 and headed into the train station. I am a sucker for sympathy.

This airport was not the international one and was a lot smaller. I asked questions and got in lines. The line formations were better here than in China, but not a lot. I definitely needed to look after myself or someone would cut in front of me. Near the counter I could not believe what I saw. There was a big pile of poop on the floor. At first I thought it was human, but then wondered maybe if it was cow as it was really big. There were luggage carts that were being pushed through it and spreading it all over the floor. Yes quite disgusting and I realized Toto and Dorothy I am not in Kansas anymore. I got my ticket and my bag checked and got in the security line. The line was long and I only had an hour before the flight left so I asked the lady working there if I should be skipping line and she said yes I should. I walked past everyone and got in line. The security guard would not let me through or any other guys, but women were going through. I then remembered it was customary to let women go first. I was cool with that and watched as the women paraded through some I noticed had flights later than mine. That is just the culture. I did use my weight with the guys the best I could and made it through. I saw another American and talked to him a little as he was from Philadelphia. He said he lives in Turkey and said he is use to this craziness living in Turkey. He said this is worst than there, but it is crazy there too. I told him I think I booked a scam and am not sure what I will be getting in Kashmir and asked him why he was going and he said he just always wanted to go with a nostalgic smile. Kashmir for me as well releases a nostalgic thought in my brain as well. Not sure why? Kashmir wool maybe.

After clearing security you go out and identify your bag and they then check your flight ticket with your bag to make sure they match. Your bag then goes into a wagon that is transported to the plane. Lots of checks which is fine if that is what it takes to get a safe flight. We then got on a bus and were transported to the plane.

I talked awhile to a passenger on the plane that is from Kashmir. He assured everything was safe there. He said there has not been a problem in a long time. This made me feel a little better.

The engines started and we were soon airborne. The flight was pretty much uneventful although the mountains we flew over were quite beautiful. As we descended and began our landing I saw many conglomerate of homes close together that appeared to me maybe they were a family group. The area looked very dry and in need of rain although I saw some homes that appeared to be built in a ditch. I am not sure what was going on or was that just a manmade low lying area where they built there homes for protection. Protection from what I was not sure, but maybe it had a terrorism theme to it.

Soon the wheels hit the runway pavement and we were slowing. There were lots of camouflage buildings all around us. The airport looked more like a military airport than a commercial one. Security guards and jeeps were prevalent as well as 0.5 circular camouflage buildings. Camouflage definitely was the color of choice.

As we got off the plane under heavy military presence we walked into a room where foreigners were directed to a desk where we had to register. It seemed like I had arrived into another country. After signing in I went to the conveyor to wait for my luggage. There was a Canadian guy that I talked to. He said they had a reservation at a houseboat as well. We exchanged phone information and discussed maybe hiking together. In Delhi they always said they could not give me a price to hike because it depended on how many days I hiked and how many people went along. I told the Delhi folks to assume a three day trek and 4 people. They still would never give me a price. I told the guy yes the more people the cheaper it would be. I told him too I would talk to the German girls who are supposed to be on the boat according to the people in Delhi. I went farther to tell him I think my whole trip might be a scam and I really had no idea what I was in for. We walked out of the airport together. He was traveling with his wife who was chinese and it was very comforting talking to those folks I estimate to be in there 40's. A guy walked up to me and said you must be Mr. Himalaya. Obviously the guys in Delhi had called ahead and told them I was the one that came here to hike in the Himalayans. I told him my name is Dave. He said come with me. I stopped and talked to the Canadians a little longer and the guy seemed hurried to get me into their jeep. I told the Canadians I would send them an email or try and phone them even though I had no phone. They said maybe they would see me on the boat. I sarcastically said yes there are only 1,000 of them on the water. The guy again seemed to be in a hurry and said right this way sir.

The guy picking me up had a wool, pancho like coat that extended to his calfs. It did not look very clean. We walked to a jeep like truck that appeared to be pretty new. All the seat were covered in blankets and the one in the back seat had a barbie theme on the blanket. I commented on the Barbie blanket and they smiled. They frequently talked in their native language and received a couple phone calls as we drove. I had no idea what they were saying. I told them the driver in Delhi that took me to the airport said there was a Canadian woman coming here on a flight an hour after mine. I told them I did not mind waiting an hour for her. They said no that is fine we just come back out.

The drive through Srinagar was dominated by the military presence. There was military everywhere with more in some locations than other. The automatic weapons they held were designed to kill a lot of people in a hurry. These were not sporting rifles. I wondered again what am I getting into here. The driver did not speak much and the guy the other guy just smoked a lot and we made small talk.

Finally we made it to what I presume was Dal Lake. The lake had several house boats just a 60 meters from the shore. These boats appeared to be nice. They had many different names on them many of them included references to nations such as Switzerland and Australia. We drove farther and drove adjacent to a portion of the lake that got wider and farther from the road. We stopped and the guy told me to get out and I followed his lead. We walked down to the water's edge where there were many small watercrafts called shikaras. He instructed me to get in one. The boat was very colorful and quite nice. I felt like a king being chauvered to my castle. It was quite nice. My confidence was growing about this trip. This isn't too bad at all.

The paddle across Dal Lake lasted about 10 minutes and then we arrived at the Dando Palace. The exterior of the boat appeared decent upon first approach and I was quite surprised. Then we landed at the steps and I was instructed to get out. I got out of the boat and walked onto the wooden walkway a few feet above the water. The walkway was quite old and gaps in the board existed that warranted concern regarding each step I made. The guy instructed me to follow him along this walkway to this home on the shore. As I walked along I saw a lady on the adjacent boat that appeared to be very old but it was hard to really know here ages as she was in woolen looking pancho to that was very dirty. It appeared she lived outside but I was not sure of that. The adjacent boat itself appeared to be reasoonably good condition. There was a concrete walkway on the shore at the end of the wooden walkway above the water. The concrete appeared to be in reasonably good shape. Better than the wooden walkway which in places did not seem safe with the holes spoaradically spaced along the walkway.

There was a building like shed to my left along the sidewalk that appeared very dirty inside. I assumed this was a tool shed of sort as that would be the equivalent condition of such a shed back home. Actually many garages appeared much nicer than this place. The guy motioned me into the house and directed me into a room. The man sitting there was on the phone and he motioned me to sit down. There were no chairs in the room so I sat near a pillow, which was quite uncomfortable for me. That was fine though I wanted to respect there culture. I thought to myself how this was cool. I was traveling now.

The guy finished his conversation and said hi. He intorduced himself as Latif. I could tell right away this monotone sounding guy was quite a smooth talker. He asked me if I wanted breakfast and I said sure that sounds good and I said his first suggestion, an ommellete, sounded good. We had small talk for a few minutes. He said so your an American. I said yes I am. He said I am sure it is hard for you to travel these days being an American. I wondered what in the hell did he mean by that. He said in India we do not kill anyone. In India we are peaceful people. I thought yes you are a peaceful people that is why you have thousands of military personnel lining the streets around this town. He was clearly taking a jab at my country. The way he talked, in this monotone and powerful voice was totally new to me and felt weird. His English was very good, as is most people from India's. I was starting to get mad at this guy and his jab at America. I was thinking yes the next time Kashmir is ravished by an earthquake as happened a few years ago maybe those Americans planes are not the first to arrive to help you folksout. Soon after that thought the ommellete arrived. I was surprised how quickely the food arrived as it was almost like they were fixing it before I had even got off the boat.

The food was pretty good and I finished it quite quickely. Latif was on the phone again and said for me to wait a few more minutes as they were still working on where I would sleep. I sat there another 15 minutes and I was beginning to get a little tired of the waiting around. Finally after sitting there for probably 40 minutes or so Latif said come with me. He showed me through the hallway of the house and to some steps going upstairs. We got to a carpeted room that appeared quite nice and clean, but there was not one thing in this room. Latif said this is where I would be staying. Was I hearing this man right? He wanted me to stay in this room with nothing in it in his house on land. I had paid for a 7 day trip staying on a house boat. I told him this room does not even have anything in it. He said we will bring a bed into the room later today and then tomorrow you will stay on the boat. We had some problems with the toilet on the other boat and it is being fixed and you can stay there tomorrow.

I told Latif I wanted to see the boat where I would be staying tomorrow. He said that is fine and to set my pack down in this room. I told him no that pack stays on. I could tell by his facial expression that was not the response he wanted. He began walking down the steps and outside and to this boat right near the house. This boat was behind the main boat and was probably 30 meters from the main body of water. The who area around the boat was strewn with debris. On the boat there was boards and sawdust everywhere. He showed me a bed which he indicated that is where I would be sleeping tomorrow. This bed had probably 30 pieces of lumber on it along with saw dust etc. Around the corner he showed mw the bathroom where a guy was working on a toilet. You could see through the wooden subfloor as there was no finish floor on it.

Up until that point I had remained calm, but I was no longer calm. I told Latif that this place is no where close to being ready for someone to stay here. He had already begun walking back into the house and I followed him back into this room where just a few minutes earlier I was thinking how cool it was to be being in a home with a local, sitting on a floor as is customary. Now the room was not so cool as the shortlived honeymoon period was well over. I asked him in an elevated voice how in the hell he expect me to stay in a room with nothing in it on the land after I had booked a stay on a house boat. I then went on to say and you are telling me I am to stay in a boat tomorrow that is not anywhere close to being ready for someone to stay there. He responded in an elevated voice, why do you have to be so difficult. Everyone else here is happy with the accomodations. He said the English girls are having a good time. I told him I booked a trip to be on a boat not sleeping in a room in your house. I want to see a room in the main boat. I had never taken off my backpack. He told one of his men to show me a room on the main boat.

We walked back down the concrete sidewalk past the garage which appeared to be maybe for small motors and to the dilapidated crickety wooden dock and into the main boat. The rooms in here seemed much better but still not what I was shown in the pictures in Delhi. The room he showed me was ok, but had a musty smell to it. I told him that this room would work. I sat my bag down and ask the guy if there was anyone else on this boat. He said yes there are two English women. I told him I would like to see them. He said they are on the roof having breakfast.

He showed me to the roof where there were many splinted boards that had to be walked across to get to the locations where the girls were sitting on cushions having breakfast. I sat with them as Latif's man went back downstairs.

I ask them how things were going and surprisingly they said it has been great and we are having such a great time. I was startled by this response and they said yes yesterday we went on a hike and stayed with some gypsies. Their voices were a little raspy similar to the voice of someone who smokes a lot. They went on and on about the hike and their time with the gypsies and they said Latif took them to his house for supper one night. I was quite confused as I did not see how they could be having a good time. They ask about my stay and I told them I have booked for 7 days but was not sure I would be staying that long. I told them Latif just tried to make me stay in a room in his house. I ask them if the boat is full and they said no they had been the only ones on the boat all week. I did not want to be the complaining type so I laid off with all the questions as I did not want to rain on their parade. They offered me some tea which I declined and I went downstairs and got unpacked.

The room had two beds in it and the décor seemed really old and something I envisioned being on the Titanic.

3-7-08
Surprisingly I slept pretty well. I had a little bit of headache from drinking too much of the bad beer. LP says they put glycerol in the beer as a preservative that results in bad hangovers. After yesterday I needed something to get rid of my thought patterns and it worked. I felt a lot different this morning as well. I got up around 8 and walked around a bit. There was not much stirring yet. The English girls though were leaving at 10 so I did hear some movement in their room. I went back to my room and layed back down a few minutes. I heard Jack walk by which kind of surprised me as he is 77 and had a few beers last night so I thought he might be a little hungover but he seemed fine.

I went outside my room and said high to Jack. He seemed to be bright and chipper. I told him I planned to go into town today and try to figure out transportation to Glumarg and or Pahalgam. He said he would like to go along. I told him I just need to get away from these houseboats in the most urgent way.

We had breakfast with the English girls. They said they left me a gift in my room. A little later I went in my room and found a half smoken joint in an ash tray. I threw it away. I guess they did not want to take it to the airport. Especially the airport here where security is extremely thorough.

The breafast was ok. Jack said he had walked by the kitchen and he said it was really dirty. What are you going to do not eat. I was not even sure where the kitchen was. I had assumed it was on the boat somewhere but was not sure. There was a galley with a kitchen but it did not appear it was being used.

The girls left and Latif said farewell to them. I do not think Latif will be there to see me off. The English ladies ended up paying over a 1,XXX rupees at the end of the trip for beer and water which they bought on the boat. They are planning to travel 3 years but Jack and I agreed they would not make it that long as we think they will run out of money first.

I told one of Latifs guys that Jack and I wanted to go to shore and that we wanted to go by ourselfs. He said not possible one of us had to go along. I said ok lets go then. A few minutes later we had a boat and were on our way. Jack, one of Latif's guys and I. We got an autorickshaw once getting back to shore and went to the touist travel agency booking service in town right by the place I had went to the day before . I told Latif's guy to stay outside we did not need him here. He did but was not happy about it. He went for his phone right away calling Latif I know. This travel agency place was not all that helpful. They said the tourist bus drivers were on strike so we could not take their buses. They gave us a couple other travel options. I was not getting a good vibe from these folks and decided to go to the Houseboat Owners Association and talk to those folks about getting to Gulmarg and Pahalgam. They seemed more helpful and gave us a couple options. They mentioned going to the bus station and getting in a shared jeep taxi. They said it would be a lot cheaper than renting a taxi but we would have to ride with other people. The houseboat owners association suggested maybe one of Latif's guys gos with us to Pahalgam. I asked them why is it not safe? They said no it is usually ok. They said it is easier to get a round if someone tries to sell something to us. I got the impression it was not safe from this conversation or these guys were in cahoots with Latif. I thought that sounded good. I also thought maybe some other folks would show up at the boat as the people in Delhi kept saying other folks were coming up here even though we were not seeing them and they might want to go. We also brought up the houseboat situation and Jack chimed in with his perspective of what they were doing at the boat. They allowed me to use their phone to try and call the people in Canada as I thought maybe they might want to go to Gulmarg or Pahalgam as well but did not have any luck. I also used their internet to see if the canadians had emailed me which they had. They had said they just made it to shore this morning and indicated they probably already missed me. They said they had booked a trip with the people at their boat. I really wanted to talk to those folks about what was happening at their boat.

We left their and told Latif's guy that we wanted to check out the bus situation. Latif's guy seemed to dissuade us from that option but we were done following Latif's leads. We got in a Rickshaw and went to the bus station to check out this shared ride option. I told Latif's guy we wanted to see the shared minibus rides. He showed me a regular bus that are just complete chaos with people hanging off the bus and over crowded and dirty etc. I knew he was not showing the real buses and I was not seeing anybuses that might resemble the type of bus we were explained. Jack said he was fine taking one of these buses. I told him I did not want to take one of these buses as it would be sure chaos.

I told Latif's guy I was ready to get back into town. He said first I walk you around town. He said this was the old part of town. That seemed interesting to me. We walked through a crazy market at the bus station. This is exactly the place we were not supposed to be. A busy market as that is a good place for terroist activity. Jack seemed to be liking and he was taking some photos. I wanted to as well but am afraid to take people shots as I am afraid the people will think I am making fun of their poverty.

As we walked through town Jack kept asking me what we were supposed to be seeing I told him the old part of town. There was essentially nothing to see here just poor people walking around and heavy military presence all over. It appeared this part of town was a really popular tourist area based on the store fronts that appeared to be real nice once upon a time but now are in a delapidated state. It looked more like a war zone now. Really quite sad.

I told Jack I do not feel at all comfortable here and really would like to get back to the main part of town. He said that was fine. Jack felt comfortable but didn't know what we were supposed to be seeing. I told Jack I really wanted to try and talk to the Canadian couple. I told him the email gave me the name of their boat. I told Jack I wanted to get rid of Latif's boat and then rent a shikara and take it out to the Swan which is the Canadians boat. If nothing else we could talk to those folks about getting a tour. Jack said ok that was fine.

We vehemently told Latif's guy that we wanted to go into town and just have coffee somewhere and to talk amongst ourself. There was no reason for him to be there and told him to just go back to the houseboat. Of course this did not go over well, but he called back and I am sure he was talking to Latif. They speak perfectly good English, but of course they speak in Hindi when around us. This really makes their scam quite effective as you never know what they are talking about. Surprisingly he said ok. I was totally floored, but Jack and I were on our own.

Jack and I walked through town looking for a place with coffee but never found one. We got some more taxi prices which of course were higher than the published prices on the signs outside. It appeared everyone was out to mess with you. I was starting to get really get tired and a little light headed so I got a big jug of a fruit juice like drink and a bag of chips that were really bad. Jack and I got a Shikara boat and after much haggling over price got a ride. There are signs around town that give prices for rides in these boats but all the Shikara drivers say these are old prices and the cost is more now. The Indians do the same thing with prices in Lonely Planet. They say those prices are old.

We got to the Swan and had to look around to find someone. Finally the cook came out and I ask him if there was a couple Canadians staying there. He said there is but they are gone now. I asked him when he expected them back and he said around 6 maybe. I had no idea if he was telling the truth or even knew when they would be back. I asked him to see there boat as I was tempted ot just rent a room from this guy. He ask me which I boat I was on and I never told them just said I would like to see their rooms. These rooms were much better than what we had. They did not seem to have the musty odor to them like our rooms had.

I saw a small building that had a travel agency sign on it so I walked there but no one was there. I told the cook, who spoke bad English that I was wanting to get some prices for a trip. He said no one here and he indicated he did not know when anyone would be back. Jack and I looked at another boat and all of the sudden the cooked yelled at me and said I had a phone call. I thought now what? I ask him if it was the Canadians and he said no someone else whose name I did not recognize. I answered and it was a travel agency. I had no idea who I was speaking with it was the owner of the travel agency here or if it was someone the cook would get a commission from if we booked with him. I had no idea who I was talking to. The guy said he would be back in town the next day and to meet him at his office and he explained where that was. He also gave me his phone number.

Jack and I got another shikara and headed back to shore. We walked along the lake and got on another Shikara back to the house boat. We had accomplished very little. We had no idea where the Canadians were. All the transportation options seemed high although we did find one option that we could probably afford. Especially if we could find someone else to share in the cost but no new people were on the boat. The shared minibuses were never found. I did not know what to do. Jack suggested we talk to Latif about driving us to Gulmarg and to Pahalgam. He thought he might be better towards us if he bought something from us. Latif had told me when I got upset with him trying to make me stay in his house he said we treat people better that are good to us. I said ok and Latif did give us some decent prices.

Back on the boat I was feeling really tired and cold and felt general pain all over my body. Tried to sleep for awhile but never actually fell asleep. I was feeling increasingly bad and put on more clothes and just sat in the main room and tried to get warm but never could. I told Jack how bad I felt and told him I wanted nothing for supper. He ate some supper while I went back to bed for awhile. He gave me some medication and I took that before going back to bed for a couple hours. Jack was watching tv which worked sometimes but not always. I knew if I tried to sleep the rest of the night I would never get to sleep the rest of the night. Jack had indicated earlier he really thought I had gotten something bad and wanted to stay away from me as he did not want to catch it.

After the sleep I really felt a lot better and got back up and went to the living room where Jack was watching tv. I told him I feel quite a bit better. He said he couldn't believe I looked the way I do now as he said I looked really bad. Latif's guy came in and I ask him if he saw the boat guy with the food as I would like to buy some fruit juice. He said it is too late for him but sometimes he comes back. I went outside to check myself but did not see the guy. About an hour later Latif's guy came in and said the food boat is outside. That was music to my ears as I went out and grabbed a couple bottles of apple juice and chocalate bars and some cookies. That is all I felt like eating.

The apple juice was unbelievably good and of course I wondered if it was healthy to drink or if it was contaminated as is so many of things in India. You swallow your food just wondering if you just ate something you should not have. At times it seems like Russian roulette.

Jack and I watch a little tv and I told Jack I am thinking about heading out the first thing in the morning. I told him I do not see the point of staying here any longer. I was just wasting time and I did not trust anyone. I asked him if he wanted to go along. He said no he was going to stay a few more days and maybe book a trip. I told him I was not sure maybe I would stay another day, but would wait to make a decision in the morning.

I said goodnight to Jack and went to bed. The table went in front of the door again this night.


3-8-08 (Dal Lake)
I awoke several times during the night to go to the bathroom as the travelers diarrahea was rearing it's ugly head again. I also had drink all that apple juice the night before and it was looking for a place to exit. Nothing wanted to stay in my body it seemed. The boat was eerily quiet and I felt like I was in a black hole where no sound could exit and be heard in my ears. As the juice started exiting I began to hear water flowing from the side of the boat near where I was currently perched. I said surely that is not what I think it is so I stopped the juice exiting and soon the flow from the side of the boat stopped as well. I again told toto this ain't Kansas. I was sickened by this relavation. After more stuff exited my body I flushed the toilet and ran to the side of the boat to hear if the flow increased and it did. I tried to think surely there is a holding tank underneath like a septic tank were some sewage treatment takes place but realized this is probably not the case. This is raw seage entering the lake. The lake they talked about people swim in in the summer time. All I can say you will not catch me swimming in this lake and if you do it will be in close proximity to a mountain stream discharge.

I awoke again around 5 to the sound of muslim music being broadcast across the lake as it does 5 times each day. It really was quite eerie in the early morning. A huge lake, crazy mysterious people all around you, an old boat, huge snow capped mountains surrounding the lake, a lady that maybe had leprosy crawling around on the docks, the locals saying not to trust anyone and a town that once thrived on tourism and now is struggling to get by. This movie has had to be made already. Stephen King has surely already written this book?

As I laid there listening to this muslim music across the lake I realized this would be the day I left. My next decision was how do I go about doing it. Do I talk to Latif about getting a ticket or do I just lie and say I am heading to Gulmarg then take all my clothes and head for the airport. I really liked the idea of pulling one over on Latif, but I had to remember that Jack was staying as well and the more I anger Latif the more he would make life hell for Jack. He already told me on the first day the happier we are the more nice they will be to us. I decided I will go tell Latif that I did not feel well and was going to leave today.

I got up around 7:00 and took a shower. I was surprised there was any hot water, but there was some after letting the tap run for about 10 minutes. At the end of the boat they have a tank that they use for heating water with wood. They only heat the water when you request them to. There is an old wool coat which is partially wrapped around the tank for insulation. There must have been warm water still in the tank from the previous night.

After the shower I got packed and walked around the boat. I walked outside and could tell it had rained over night as the wooden walkway was semi wet. The air appeared clearer, than previous days as most days there was a haze or fog around the lake making it difficult to see the mountains that were relatively close. On this day I looked to the west and saw beautiful snow capped mountains that I had not seen before. The nature was beautiful the people were not. I do not care where you are in this world it comes down to people. People can make your world heaven or hell. With the right people you can have fun sitting around a picnic table at the town dump. With the wrong people sitting around a picnic table at the Grand Canyon can be horrible. It is all about the people at the end of the day. It is in a person's best interest to minimize your time around these folks.

I walked around, the short dock and saw one of Latif's men and told him I was not feeling well, was leaving today and wanted to talk to Latif about an airline ticket. He said ok he would tell Latif when Latif woke up. It was already after 8 as I had waited this long already and wondered when this nut case woke up. Latif's guy said he would be awake around 9. Again trying to be congenial I told him I wanted to get going as soon as possible as I did not want to miss the plane. He said ok. About 30 minutes later he said Latif will see you now so I went to see the King of Dondo Palace. This really got my nerves always having to walk to see this crazy guy. Why do I have to always walk to see him.

I walked into his house and into the room where I first met Latif. He was laying on the floor where he slept with cushions underneath. I frist walked into this room only two days ago but it had seemed like a year ago with everything that had happened. My mind had not shut down for two intense days and I was ready to put these horror filled days behind me only to be save in my minds memory banks.

Latif said sit like he always does. The one time when I walked into this room yelling at him for not letting me go into town by myself he yelled back at me for not sitting like he told me to. Why does a person have to sit when Latif tells him to. What a nut job this guy is. I sat this time trying to gracefully exit this nightmare. I told him I am not feeling well and am going to fly back to Delhi today. He said ok yes this environment is not good for you. I was thinking what in the hell did he mean by that. Regardless, I did not get visibly mad at this weird comment. His English was too good to chalk these kind of weird comments up to language barrier issues. He knew exactly what he was saying. I asked him if he could check on the flight cost and give me a time when the flight left and that I needed to use an ATM as well. He said ok and said I would have to wait a few minutes as he need to call someone about the ticket. I ask him can't I just buy the ticket at the airport and he said no because of security. I had never heard of such a thing not being able to buy a ticket at the airport but I was listening.

A few minutes later he called a guy and they talked in Hindi for several minutes and then said yes they have a flight at 1:00 and they are getting your ticket. I said I need to know the cost before I agree to getting a ticket. He said it would be between $80 and $90, which is what I expected it to be. I said ok get me the ticket. He said get your bag and be waiting at the dock at 10:00. I said no problem I have my stuff already packed.

I went back to the boat and told Jack I was leaving at 10:00 and he said ok I will catch a ride on the shikara at that time as well as I want to go into town. I had a thermos and extra shirt that I wanted to get rid of so I thought I would give it to two of Latif's men that guide us around the most. These folks definitely needed it. I told one of Latif's men that I wanted them two to have the thermos and the sweater and this guy grabbed the thermos as quickely as he could. He said he would give the other guy the sweater.

I left and took my backpack down to the waters edge where the boat would pick us up and just sat down and relaxed. A little later one of Latif's guys came out and said Latif wanted to talk to me. I thought now what in the hell does this psychotic guy want. I walked the wooden dock to the concrete sidewalk on land and past the shed which I looked inside and there were about 4 guys in there. There appeared to be a sink and stove in there. I thought surely these guys are not cooking in there. I wonder if several people were living in there. There was a stainless steel bowl full of eggs on the sidewalk just outside this shed. I walked past this and took some pictures of the house boat they said I would be staying on the second night as I could see Latif's back turned towards me and he would not see this photo being taken. I walked to the window and talked through the window and ask Latif what he wanted. He started out yelling at me saying, "Why are you getting Jack all excited." I ask him in a loud voice back, "What are you talking about?" He said, "Jack now wants to go to shore with you." I was coming unglued in a hurry and yelled back, " I told Jack I was going to shore at 10 to catch a plane and he said he wanted to go along as he had some things to do in town." Latif quit yelling immediately and I just walked away from this paranoid freak. As I walked past the shed there was one of Latif's guys outside and I ask them if that bowl of eggs on the sidewalk was for the cats after saying that I realized I had not even seen a cat or a dog the entire time I was there. Latif's guy said for the cats and for the lady. I felt sick. This lady that was wrapped up in these clothes so tightly you could barely even see her face, the lady that crawls around these docks I guess because she can not walk, this lady that I have no idea where she sleeps is eating out of this bowl on the sidewalk like an animal. Unbelievable.

I sat at the waters edge waiting for my ride to freedom and Jack was out there as well ready to go. One of Latif's guys was there as well and he asked me for a tip. I told him I gave him the thermos that is worth about 300 rupees or $8. He just held his hand out and I looked at my billfold and told him all I have is 500 rupees. There I had my way of getting out of the tip. I realized these guys were simply slaves to Latif and they really had no money. These people were really, really poor but it his so hard to give some money that has indirectly made your life hell. Latif was the problem not these guys. After thinking all this through for several minutes I told Latifs guy to get change and I gave him and the other guy 100 rupees. It wasn't much but it was something. He also mentioned the cooks should be tipped as well and I went back to my mad mood and told him to give them some of his and that I only had two meals in two days.

A boat pulled up and Latif's guy told me to put my bag in and get in. I told Jack he could go first so he did not have to step over my backpack and Latif's guy said no Jack can not go. I said what in the heck do you mean by that. He said Jack goes on another boat. I told him we were going to shore together. Latif's guy left and went to talk to Latif. The boat left and we sat there now without a boat. As I stood there longer I saw two women leave a boat that was just 3 boats away. I had not seen them the whole time I was there. They had backpacks in the boat. I told Jack I bet they are getting the heck out of Dodge as well.

Latif's guy came back and told Jack, Latif wants to talk to him. Jack said Latif can just come out here and talk to me if he wants to talk to me. Jack was getting mad as well. After waiting around about 15 minutes Jack went ahead and walked over to talk to Latif. As soon as Jack was out of sight and in Latif's office a boat pulled up and Latif's guy told me to get into the boat. I told him I am not leaving this dock without Jack. I have not even said goodbye to him. I also added if we do not get going I am going to miss the 1:00 flight I have. He said the flight is at 1:30.

I could hear Jack and Latif yelling in his office. I was wondering if I should go in there, but I didn't. For some reason during my entire stay I was never afraid of this guy when I was talking or yelling at him in person but when my mind started thinking about him and the crazy things he does that is when I became most concerned. I would not have wanted to been on this boat by myself. That would have been really spooky.

It was now 11:00 and they were still in that office. I finally decided to walk in on there conversation as I was going to miss my plane. I walked right in and I figured Latif would start yelling but he didn't. Jack and him were talking about a trip or something and were talking at a reasonable level. They were not yelling as I suspected they would be. I stood there for a couple minutes and went back outside. I hoped they would get the hint that I needed to get going.

As I walked out of his office I saw the lady was on the dock looking at me. I walked around her and she held out her hand wanting me to give her something. I didn't look at her face long enough to really see if I noticed any leprosy like skin disorder. I got back to my waiting spot and the lady began crawling towards me. For some reason I was not feeling much compassion for anyone these days. When she got to within about 10 ft. of me I grabbed my pack and jumped onto the front of the house boat where I had been staying as she seemed to be going towards the backpack. I set the front of the pack down on the boat and looked over the edge of the boat down the walkway and saw Jack walking out of Latif's office in my direction. I said good deal lets get the heck off this boat. Jack came and about the same time a boat pulled up and both of us jumped on with Latif's guy.

As were were crossing the water I asked Jack if he was sure he did not want to get the heck out of here. Jack said no he might do one of the hikes. I said ok and good luck. I was amazed at Jacks bravery as all I could think of was flying out of Srinagar the craziest place I have ever been to in my life by far.

We made it to shore with the greeting of a militant with an AK 47 slung over his shoulder as was the case every day I had been there. We got out of the boat and headed jumped in the waiting vehicle which was the same one as was I arrived in with the Barbie blanket over the backseat. As we drove I told Latif's guy I had enough money for the airline ticket so we can get that first if that was closest. The driver began to turn around indicating to me he thought I had to use the ATM first. Latif's guy then yelled to the driver to go to the ATM first. I told him lets get the ticket first as there is no reason for us to drive all the way back here to get the ticket as that makes no sense. He said no to ATM first. Jack then chimed in and said I am in no hurry lets get the ticket first and finally the driver turned around and headed back to near where we got out of the boat. I knew immediately what was going on. Latif told his guy to get Jack and I separated as quickely as possible as Jack said he needed to use the ATM too so he told the guy to take us to the ATM then the guy and Jack could get separated from me and thistaxi driver sooner. That is the level of paranoia we were dealing with here.

I got my ticket and of course it was $90 the upper boundary of what I was willing to pay. I wondered why in the hell didn't I just lie to Latif and get off the boat without him knowing where I was going. I wondered if this piece of paper was even going to get me a ticket once I got to the airport.

We drove into town and on the way I told Jack I would send him an email to see how things were going and winked at Jack as I knew he did not have an email account as he told me that the day before. I just wanted them guys to know someone would be following up on Jack's situation here in Srinagar. I was playing a head game with these guys for a change.

After about 15 minutes I made it to the ATM. I would have probably missed my plane if we had went here first, then drove back out to the travel agency later. All to get Jack and I separated sooner. As we got out of the car I looked up the name of this bank in my Lonely Planet and it was there so I trusted it somewhat. Latif's guy was close enough to Jack and I that he could hear our every breath. I was so fed that I told him in no uncertain terms that we knew how to use ATM machines and did not need his assistance and told him to go stand about 50 ft.away over by a white horse that was on the other side of the room. He asked me why I had to be this way. I told him he was still close go over by that horse there is no reason for you to be this close to me. I had had enough of this crazieness. I felt like I was becoming a little crazy as well. I was constantly trying to balance my compassion with anger but at this moment anger was winning out over compassion.

After getting our money, I told jack if he wanted, he could ride to the airport with me. He said no that is fine and he got out as did Latif's guy. I told Jack to be careful. I really admired this 77 year old English man. He was very brave. He has this great home in England and has loads of money and could pretty much go anywhere but he put his backpack on his shoulders and came to India. He is a tougher man than I will ever be.

3-8-08 cont
I headed off again with the driver not really trusting anybody at this point. I got my Lonely Planet book out and started following our progress to the airport. I wanted this guy to know I new where we were going just in case he tried to do something shady. I saw where we should be headed and told him right after we cross the river we head left and confirmed that was true. He now knew I was paying attention to the directions. I often bluff that I know where I am going with taxis by looking at maps as they drive so they do not take me on longer routes. Sometimes when I am being metered I take pictures of there I'D, which in china is posted on there dash and take pictures of the odometer. This is to make them think I will report them if they do something shady. India is not as organized and there is no meter or I'D tags. After this guy took a left at the river he could have drove anywhere and I would not have known where he was going. As my map did not show anything more after we got out of town just showed an arrow in the direction to the airport.

I did see signs indicating airport so that was reassuring. The guy got a phone call and the guy handed it to me saying it was Latif. I thought now what does this guy want? Ill I ever get away from him? I answered and he ask me how it was going? I responded calmly and said it is going ok. He said when you land in Delhi there will be a taxi driver there to pick you up to take you to the office. I said ok and gave the phone back to the driver. They resumed talking in Hindi and hung up. The wheels started turning again should I get in the car or not. Every since 3 days ago when I signed up for this tour they have known exactly where I was at. Maybe I should let them wonder for while where I was at. My intentions before the phone call was to go directly to the US Embassy and get guidance from them and or go to the Tourist Information Center. I had no idea who to trust around here, had no idea what could be done to resolve this matter. That's what I would do I would ignore the driver get my own taxi and go to the Embassy or Tourist Information Center. I kind of laughed thinking this whole mess started when I was trying to get to the Tourist Information center in the first place.

There were several checkpoints in going to the airport where we had to show my ticket. In one location they rolled a big glass mirror under the truck to look for a bomb there. I had to get my bag out and run it through an X-ray machine and then put the bag back in the taxi and we continued on. There was a war zone mentality here.

I got to the airport and went in and my baggage and I were immediately x-rayed and patted down again. I went to the ticket counter and showed them my paper and which I was unsure if it would result in a ticket but if did. My backpack was checked and I walked to the next room with my carry on luggage. In that room I tried to walk to where it looked like people were waiting but the guard looked at my ticket and said I could not enter yet had to wait 35 minutes. He then pointed to another man in the room that I needed to sign out with. When we first entered Srinagar I had to fill out a form and now that I was leaving I had to fill out another form. The guy gave me the form and asked me out my stay was. I said there were a few problems but I was ready to just put the stuff behind me and move on. The guy asked me if I stayed on a houseboat and I told him yes I did. He ask me which house boat and I hesitantly said Dando's Palace and he smiled and said, "Yes Latif's boat." I reiterated I have put the problems behind me and am moving on. I filled the form out and went upstairs where there was a restaurant and grabbed a bite to eat. There were 3 foreign women there I think from England. I ask them if they had a good stay and they said they had. The one lady said she has a partner here and that person showed them around and they stayed with that person. SHe seemed to be a hippie type and I had no idea if her partner was male or female. I told them briefly about the crazieness I had experienced and how you can not trust anyone around here. She said you can trust the people here. The two people with this lady seemed to belief my story where as the lady that has the partner here tried to act like my story was not true. I think stories like mine result in less people going to Kashmir so she tries to discount it as it hurts the people in the area as they need tourism. I do not know what this lady was thinking but they had to catch there plane and she said well I hope your next stay in Kashmir is better. I told her clearly there will not be a next time.

A few minutes later I walked downstairs and the security guard said I still needed to wait 10 more minutes so I walked over and sat down on the bench and another guy walked up to me and ask me how my stay was. I said it was ok but there were a few problems but I am putting the problems behind me. He said did you stay on a houseboat and I said yes. Then he ask who's boat. I was really hesitant to say and told the guy I just want to get out here. He rolled down his shirt and the shirt underneath had a badge that said toursit police. I still did not trust the guy as far as I knew he was working for Latif. He ask again what boat I was staying on and I said Dando Palace and the guy smiled and said Latif's boat. I ask him if he hs been getting many complaints and he said yes they have gotten a few. He handed me a complaint form and ask me to fill it out. I thought for a second and said I am not going to fill that out I am just going to leave this place. I still had no idea if this guy worked for Latif or what was going on. Everyone seemed to know Latif. I was told by the Houseboat Owners Association that he was from a rich family. It didn't seem prudent to be going around telling everyone how crazy this guy was. Maybe someday I would tell the story but not to the locals in this town. I walked back to the security guard and went through security the final time. In the next room I had to wait for my flight to be called and then go out and show them my checked baggage which they confirmed the number on that bag with my ticket number. They then transported all identified checked bags onto the plane.

As I waited in this staging area I saw the two women who I thought were the ones leaving the boat near the one I was on this morning. I asked them if they were and they said they were. I asked them about there stay and they said it was horrible and the flood gates were released. They said they would not let us off the boat unless they were with someone from the boat, they would not let us talk to other tourist, we were scared for our safety, we called the German embassy and they would not do anything and they were so scared. They talked several minutes about everything that happened to them. They said they got roped into the scam as well and they said they talked to a Canadian man whereas I had talked to an American and English woman. They said they booked a trip for $170 thinking the people on the boat would be less likely to harm them. They said the people on the boat told them how the Indian People are good people and they never hurt anyone. They said the Nazis kill a lot of people. They said they layed in bed each morning listening to the muslim music being played across the waterat 5 am. As we talked there were several people looking directly at us. I told them I have no idea who we can trust and those guys seemed to be looking directly at us. I thought at first of course they are going to look at us as we are 3 tourist excitedly talking about the craziness that took place over the course of the last 3 days. But I had become so paranoid that I did not trust any local. The girls said they were planning to go back to the office and get some money back in Delhi. They did not care how much just some and get out of the rest of the trip. I told them we can go together. Their plane was leaving so I told them when you get to Delhi wait for me and lets get a plan together on how to handle this. I told them to make a list of all the crazy things that had happened to you and a list of what they wanted to reconcile this matter. They left and got on the plane.

Soon afterwards I was going out to my plane as well. They were delayed and were just getting on the plane as we were. The whole area was heavily guarded with armed men and the surrounding barracks were painted in camoflage. The plane I was on was India air and there were only about 10 people on the plane. One turbine did not seem to be running right so I hoped we made it to Delhi or I would not have anything to worry about. The German girls plane left before ours but only a few minutes so that was good as I figured there would not be much time difference in our arrival. The pilots on my plane all wore turbans which seemed a little weird as in the US your are taught to be afraid of those folks. Similar to the Russian we were taught to hate the Russians in the 70's and 80's. We should be taught to make distinctions between the people and the politicians and if we want to hate anybody hate the politicians as they are the ones starting wars not the people. Even the politicians that we elect do not necessarily do what the people elected them thought they would do. The people are not interested in conquering other lands and global problems. Most people are just worried about providing for theirself and their family.

I spent the entire trip trying to type and get my thoughts together on what just happened over the last 3 days and what I wanted back. I had ordered some food on the plane as a meal was provided, but did not eat a bite. The stewardesses on the plane were very nice and they had a third eye which was always so spooky to me because of stupidity. Ignorance is the source of so much fear. We often fear we have a health issue because we do not know what the real problem is. We fear other people because we do not know them or their culture. Before we start hating people lets learn about those people do not hate them because a politician tells us we should.

The flight went very quickly and we were soon sitting at Delhi airport. I got my bag right away and went to talk to the German girls who were still waiting on their luggage. I told the one German girl who I saw first I wanted to not take the taxis there office is providing and just take our own taxi to the tourist information center as this was all over my head and I wanted to talk to those folks to help get some guidance. The one girl said that sounded ok but the other girl just wanted to go to their office and talk to them. I told them for the last 3 days these clowns have know exactly where I was at and I wanted them to spend some time trying to figure out where we were at for a change. Take them out of control. We go to the tourist office and then get a place to stay and then just show up at their office the next morning. The one German girl just wanted to get this whole ordeal over with.

They got their bags and we were ready to go. I ask them if they thought they would be getting the same driver and they didn't know and I figured the driver would recognize me as well. Once we got to the area where all the taxis where we walked up the ramp and I told them as I walk if you see your name but do not recognize the driver just keep walking. I never did see my name being held by a driver but the girls said they saw there's but they did not recognize the driver. When we got past the taxi drivers holding the signs with our names I suggested we get in a taxi. The german girls however were uncertain on what to do. I told them this is out of our league we need to go to the tourist information center and see what they say about this matter. The one girl just wanted to go to the office and talk to them. A few seconds later one of the taxi drivers showed up holding the card with their name on it. He asked if this is there name and they said it was. He asked me if I was Dave and I said no my name is Fred. I told him I met these two ladies and was considering traveling with them. Another taxi driver showed up asking me if I was Dave and I told him no I am Fred. We got in the girls taxi and headed out. The German girl said she wanted taken back to the office. The driver said I am to take you to Jaipur. She said no take us to your office. The driver got on the phone and called his boss, Safi the guy we had all dealt with. The driver must have told Safi that the girls wanted to talk to him in person as Safi asked to talk to the girls. The German girl kept saying we just want to talk to you and about everything that happened in Kashmir. She was almost crying and I could tell Safi was yelling at her which she confirmed later. The other German girl was really scared of physically being injured by these guys. The one German girl told me later she was trying to stay calm so as not to startle the other German girl. The German girl gave the phone back to the driver and Safi and him talked for a bit.

After they hung up the driver asked me where I was from and I said Canada. He ask where at in Canada and I sadi Vancouver. I could tell Safi had told him to get more information about this third passenger in the car. He asked me what I did and I told him I am an accountant. I really enjoyed this a little I must admit. A few minutes later the driver got back on the phone and was talking in Hindi to I know Safi and I heard in the conversation Canada stated. They were trying to figure out who I was.

When we made it back to the office and all hell broke lose. As soon as I walked in Safi did look surprised to see me and he started yelling at me that I did not get in the taxi that was meant for me. I didn't really respond to his comment and said we need to talk. So we all went to his office and soon afterwards another guy came barreling into the office yelling and screaming saying I was a guy that broke their phone. The guy never once looked at me the whole time he just screamed at Safi. I was bigger than all the guys there though there were about 30 of them and I had no idea what these guys were capable of so I was a little nervous. Safi started yelling at this guy and told him to get out of the room and as he left Safi locked the door on the cubicle like room we were in. We started talking about the crap that happened in Kashmir and Safi kept interrupting. I told him that we are going to tell you everything that happened in Kashmir. I spent about 10 minutes going through everything I had experienced and the girls did the same. I was trying to read what I had written, but I was wound so tightly my hands started shaking. I put the phone where I had everything typed below the table where he could not see it. Several yelling matches erupted during the next hour and one time Safi said he was getting a headache. I told him we have had a headache the last 3 days. At one time he said I have to get home to my family it is getting too late. I said ok that is fine I will talk about this tomorrow and Safi said I do not work on Saturdays. I could tell he knew we wanted to resolve this matter today and really did not want to wait until Monday. I realized too that everything I said was effecting these girls as well. So I had to keep that in mind. At one time Safi told me to leave as he had a different contract with me. I kind of wish I would have as I think I could have gotten a better deal. After much yelling Safi had give us a number on how much money he would give us back. For me it was a little less than a third and for German girls it was about the same. I told Safi we wanted him to leave the room so we could discuss this. I told them I wanted to try and salvage the trip, but knew it was a risk as if the rest of the trip is like the first couple days then we would hate our whole trip. One German girl wanted to try and salvage it and the other was just scared and wanted the money and to get out of here. Safi came in again and we commenced the yelling and screaming and told him we needed more time and after more yelling he finally left and gave us more time.

When he came back in I told him he needed to throw tonights lodging in Delhi into this package. He kept trying to say no I will give you a taxi to Jaipur tonight. I told him it has been a long day and I was not going to get in a car and a ride another 5 hours to Jaipur. I told him he provide us hotel room and we can never see each other again. Safi really wanted us out of Delhi that was obvious. In the end we took the money. Safi then ask if we needed transportation to Jaipur and he gave us a price to provide a taxi. I was thinking this guy has got to be kidding after all the crap we just went through he now wants us to buy something from him. We said forget it. He made us sign a paper that we have been paid this much money to terminate the contract. I wrote to get out of this scam I am accepting the noted amount of money. He said he needed it for their bank. I told him I wanted a copy and he said no I didn't get a copy. I went to take a picture of the document and he started yelling like he was on fire. When they started paying us off I went to take another picture and the yelling commenced again. He then said since I am such a nice guy I am going to provide you with a taxi to Jaipur tomorrow. I about threw up with regards to the nice guy comment and after debating it with the German girls we said ok. Safi obviously wanted to ensure that we got out of Dalh and to think a few minutes ago he was trying to sell us an option on how to get to Jaipur. Making money off of us by whatever means possible is so engrained in their heads. This probably meant we should have stayed, but everyone was so fed up with the mess that we just wanted out and Safi ended up with a bunch of our money in the end. How sad is that. We went outside and Safi shook the girls hands. I had no intention to shake this persons hand, but then the German girls said come on shake his hand so I quickly did and to this day I wish I would have not. This guy stole from me, lied to me, yelled at me and I shook his hand. I really wanted to shake his head, is what I wanted to do.

We left in the car to our hotel. The hotel was ok, but had been freshly painted, which is what most of India neads is some fresh paint. We turned down a couple of the rooms and then finally picked two rooms. I bought the girls and I some beers and we just sat there in there room and drank and talked about how relieved we felt this night mare was coming to an end. It felt good I must say but I really was soured to the Indian people. I really trusted none of them. How could I. I still trusted the guy in Kasmir though who said in India do not trust anyone.

I walked around outside looking for a place to eat and then came back for the girls and we walked to a McDonalds. Of course no beef on the menu so I had to chicken sandwhichs and two french fries. I had not eaten hardly a thing all day and I was hungry. Everything I do from here on out takes on a different perspective having just went through what we had experienced. The German girls kept trying to be more positive about the ordeal saying if you give some value to the trip to Kasmir they had only lossed around $700. I could say as well if the flight to Kashmir was worth $100 and my stay there was worth $50 I only lost a $1,000. I could sugar coat it a little more and say there is value to the great story I have but that is a stretch. The whole 3 days were very intense and most of the time I experienced extreme paranoia. It was not fun at all but I was alive. Kind of like the bungy jump for those 2 seconds I was alive similarly to the 3 days in Srinagar I was alive. I know $1,000 is not the end of the world but I sure felt bad about having lossed it. Not sure if the bad feelings was knowing I lost it to a scum like Safi, or just the shear loss of money, or just being duped like that. Not sure but it all felt really bad.

I just wanted to lay in bed and see an English movie and this hotel did have a tv with an English movie so I went back to my room and ate my McDoanalds there. I wanted the smell of McDonalds in the room as well. Is this a sign of home sickness or maybe I just wanted to be surrounded by something I knew and food I trusted. Not sure, but it seemed right.

Good night from my last night in Delhi hopefully forever. I would not recommend anyone come to this place.

India-Jaipur
Jaipur was pretty much "Full-On" like Delhi. I expected it to be a little less crazy, but in the main Bazaar area it was just as crazy. I was beginning to think I have a full month of this. I was traveling with the German girls and everything had to be ok with them as well. This was ok just different for me as I had been traveling by myself for a long time and was getting use to moving in accordance to my own drum. Man that is awkward way to put it, but you get the point. We got a room for 3 people and it was quite nice. Let me rephrase that, it was cheap and the rooms were kind of clean. The owners seemed somewhat trustworthy and that was a nice change, but I had trusted people before and it hit me hard in the pocket book. We decided to get a ride to the nearby fort and sightsee there. The rickshaw driver, who the owner of the hotel where we were staying recommended said this is the only driver he allows to park outside of his hotel. That sounded really good as I felt like since he had a tie to the hotel he would be honest with us.

We headed out and I gave him strict instructions to take us the bus station and then to the fort where he would wait for us and then back to the palace area. After the bus station he started taking us through the main bazaar area asking us if we wanted to see this and that etc. I firmly said I told you to take us to the fort and that is what I expected. I consulted with the girls and they kind of indicated they might like to look around. I mentioned that hs is doing what every other driver in India does. Anyway we saw things a little different on this issue but that is fine.

At the fort the Indian Tourist were taking pictures of the German girls and they didn't like it and were telling them to quit it. I was getting mad and told them to quit it as well, but they kept doing it. I was starting to lose it a little and shoved my camera in their face and took pictures of them. They didn't like it and looked at me quizzically as if what they were doing was ok. I very rarely take pictures of people at least I do it when they are not looking or ask their permission first which usually results in me having to dole out some cash. They are always looking at ways to get your money.

Anyway these guys were spoiling it for us. Some tourist do the same to Indians when they travel but if the photographed subjects are asked not to take pictures then the pictures stop. On a couple other occasions when these guys were taking pictures again I would walk over to them and blatatntly shove the camear in their face. I then would ask our tour guide to repeat what he said. He finally got the point and told them to quit taking pictures as well in the Hindi language.

The fort was quite interesting and I was glad we came but these clowns spoiled it a little. They were giving elephant rides to the top of the castle and we saw a few people doing it. One American lady I met said they drug the elephants. I do not know if they do or not.

When we were walking down I saw a guy whose face I recognized. I am pretty decent at recognizing faces but not good with names. I said hello and after some talk we realized it was in a hostel in Cairns, Australia where me met. Frank is from France and is doing something similar to me. He quit his banking job and is travelling more than a year. He said he has no idea what he is going to do in the future as he does not want to go back to doing what he had done before. I guess I am in a similar situation but suspect I will go back to engineering. I hope I do not settle for a ho hum job but instead do something I can be excited about. I hope I get to meet lots of people as well as I enjoy meeting people. Maybe I should become a salesman. I do not like the sound of that. There are character issues associated with a salesman.

On the way back we told our rickshaw driver to stop at one point and look at the water palace. He then took us to another temple that wasn't anything special. From there he talked about wanting to take us to a party at least the girls to the party. They acted interested, but I do not think they were. He wanted to show us a few things as well, which I am sure was for commission, but I told him to just drop me off at the palace. I knew what he was going to do. The girls rode with him through the bazaar. I was happy to be on my own. At the palace the entry fee was quite expensive so I decided to not go in and instead went to this place where the guy had all these sundials. This was quite interesting and the place actually has the Guinness world record for the biggest sundial in the world. It was cloudy the day I was there but so there was no watching the sundial in action. This sundial is so big you can actually see the shadow moving or should I say see the sun moving. Glass 0.5 empty 0.5 full or like the engineer says the glass is too big for the volume of water it contains.

After the sundial place I walked back to the hotel getting lost several times. It was neat seeing some children playing cricket in the street. This was like the only available place to play in the City so they just played in a busy street. I was asked to buy some things a couple times and a guy really irritated me one time and I told him he was from India and I did not trust him as I do not trust anyone in India. I was becoming animal. It takes a lot of work to keep your spirits up in this place.

I headed back to the hotel after getting lost several times. On the way back I ran across a McDonalds where I decided to eat. I haggled with a couple rickshaw drivers before getting on I felt comfortable with and was a legitamet price. I chilled out at the hostel where of course scams were discussed. I talked to two English kids who lost 350 pounds are $700 in a scam. They were simply intimidated by three people at a travel agency to the extent that they gave them the money. These kids were told that if they did not pay them the money, they were going to follow them all the way to Agra. Like me they did not know what to do and just paid them. I would sure have done things differently now but I did not know what to do back then.

I knew I was glad to be leaving this place. I sure hoped Pushkar my next stop would be better.

India- Puskar
The bus we took from Jaipur to Pushkar was not very nice, but this was India so I could not expect much. The people selling things came onto the bus and were quite aggressive. This was getting old, but I put up with it. Frank the guy from France, that we met at the fort and the guy who I hosteled with in Cairns, was on the bus as well. Frank told me later in the day that he thought I was really mad at the guy selling water on the bus and thought I was going to rip his head off the way he put it. I didn't think like I ever looked like that and know I have been a lot madder during my India visit.

Upon arrival we were hounded by people wanting us to come to their hotel. I wanted to go to the place that we (the German girls) had agreed to on the bus but they wanted to try this place. I said ok but we are doing exactly what we were not going to do. Frank was going to try it as well. The place was quite nice but quite full and I ended up getting a room that was very nice but very expensive. I was paying more than everyone else kind of because all the other rooms were full. Oh well I kept reminding myself the dollar value of this place and it was quite cheap about $10.

Pushkar is a hippy town and I was offered hash a lot. I met a kid from the Netherlands that said he use to smoke about 6 joints a day and said here he has quit smoking and it feels great to be not smoking. I then heard the German girl tell me that the day before she smoked with him. He was obviously lying. This guy I think is one of those guys that smokes too much. I did not like him much .

From the rooftop of the hotel we were staying at I saw lots of monkeys. I had seen several monkeys in Jaipur as well. The hotel owners told me to make sure my balcony doors were closed because the monkeys will come in and tear things up. One morning I was sitting on the rooftop typnig and I looked to my left and sure enough two of the light faced monkeys were coming on the roof and the first thing they did was went over and tip a clay pot over and it broke. They were very destructive little critters and I went down and told the people working there and they ran out and got them off the roof with a big stick that was propped in the corner. You could tell this was not the first time they had to do this. Frank was fascinatetd by these monkeys and I too thought they were quite interesting. Frank said the black faced monkeys were nice and were actually a little bigger in size whereas the lighter brown faced monkeys were mean. The lighter colored monkeys were the ones on the roof this morning and they were quite aggressive. You saw lots of monkeys in Pushkar. Maybe they were here smoking pot along with many of the people.

The main thing in Pushkar was the lake in the middle of the City. People came here to bath while I just go to the bathroom. Man they could save theirself a lot of trouble if they would just bath in the bathroom. No the water is supposed to be holy water. The cows seemed to think it was holy as well as they were in the water as well to cool off or maybe the cows who are holy theirself made the water holy? I do not know this Hindi is too tough for me to understand. The religious places around the water was called Ghats. Of course nothing is free and their were lots of ways these religious folks tried to get your money. I called most of the things scams but they would probably rationalize somehow that it was ok. Humans have an awesome ability to rationalize things that they want to do whether it be sex, drugs and rock roll. Well rock and roll is ok isn't it? Wait maybe rock and roll is the devil. Well if it is I guess I like certain aspects of the devil, as I sure like Rock and Roll! No people rationalize sex and money all the time. It was quite phenomenol mans and womens abilty to rationalize things when they want it bad enough. Just like a persons ability to ask questions when they are sick to a doctor or are trying to get out a bungy jump!

I hiked to this temple that was up on the hill overlooking the City one evening to catch the sunset. I caught up with some Israelis and I thought I would take the opportunity to talk to those folks for awhile. I have met a few Israelis on the trip but not a lot. They seemed pretty nice but exuded confidence. They said they think of theirself as a lot like Americans. Maybe the Americans on tv but not a lot of Americans I don't think. I do not think most Americans are cocky just the ones that are on tv. Anyway they had a little arrogance to them but they said I looked like a Navy Seal that is on the news in Israel so I took that as a compliment and they instantly turned into cool people. They also said I was a big guy and should have just intimidated the people in India when they tried to scam me. Again more things a guy wants to be described as being. They were saying all the right things.

After seeing the temple we headed back down and they invited me to go on a camel safari with them the next day and I said I was interested. That would be a great opportunity to meet about 20 Israelis when else would I get this opportunity? I said sure I would go. There was a Norwegian guy that had kind of joined us and I tried to ask the Isaelis if he could go as well and I felt awkward after I said it as I really had no right to invite him along but he seemed to be a little lonely. They said sure the more the merrier and he said he was interested. The Israelis said to meet them at this restaurant where they said they were meeting at 8:00 PM to discuss this the trip. They said the cost was only 350 rupees. This was like $9.00 for a night in the desert, a meal and camel ride. This was dirt cheap.

I left them and headed back to the hotel where I was staying and mentioned the trip to Frank but he was not interested as he said in Jaisalmer (sp) he was going on a camel safari. At the meeting place I had a some food that the Israelis were eating and again it was dirt cheap and actually very good as well. Hanging out with the Israelis might be good for the bank account as the ones I have met on this trip always seemed to be getting things cheap. The Norwegian guy was there as well and decided to go along. I really looked forward to the trip. The cost had went up to 400 rupees though so it was now at $10. Still dirt cheap.

I met Frank a little later and we had some supper together. I told Frank I was going on the camel safari and mentioned it should be fun but the Israelis seem a little cocky. He said really that is what you think? I said yes. He said he thought the same thing about the ones he met. For a French person Franks English was pretty good. I thought he had a really good vocabulary. I liked Frank a lot.

We met the next afternoon and headed out. There were two people on each camel and I felt a little sorry for the camels as it seemed kind of hard on them the way they got up and all the weight they had to carry. I guess they were use to it though.

The Norwegian and I rode together. There were two ladies that had a camel that seemed a little wild and they emphatically said they want on a different camel. I was laughing at these hysterics and there were a couple others in the group said they would trade. Our camel was fine but seemed a little slow. I thought the camel might be tired and did not try to rush it although the little kids that were with us often yelled and hit the camels to get them to move quicker. While riding a camel you are way up high and the thought of falling off was always at the forefront of your mind. Two small make shift ropes hung down from the saddle and were meant for my feet but I did not use them much as I thought if I ever fell off this beast I would be in a heck of a mess as I didn't think I could get my feet out of these ropes. Therefore I had to just ride with my legs wrapped tightly around the beast.

After about an hour of this my legs and butt for that matter was getting very sore. We first got off the camel after about 2 hours into the ride and I could barely walk. Most of the other people were in a similar state. The camels generally were quite friendly and I petted the one that we were riding. Some of them though were not as friendly and really did not like the idea of being petted. We went for about another hour and reached our camping spot. The people with the camels started cooking for us and we put some blankets down and listened to music for awhile as the one guy played the guitar and was quite good. I really enjoyed this. As the sun got lower in the western sky many of us walked around to take pictures. One picture I took was really nice with a camel in the forefront and the setting sun in the background but it was just a little too dark. I think with a little effort I will be able to lighten up that picture with photoshop and have a keeper. I have never done that with a picture before but may do it on that one. The Chai tasted quite good but the food was not too good. We ate around 9 or later and then some music was played and we went to bed. We were all given two blankets that I am quite certain have not been washed ever. It was ok though. The camels were tied to post in the sand only a few feet from us which seemed a little close but I guess that was normal. The moon was very bright and the temperature mild and I was camping with about 20 Israelis. This was a great experience. Good night from the desert near Pushkar, India. Who would have thought I would be doing this a couple years ago? Not me. A year of retirement in my 30's. I am a gosh darn genius to decide to do this. I think this will catch on at least with single folks. Not sure married folks with kids will be able to do such a thing. I think actually this kind of thing would be a great experience for kids as well. You could home school them for that year. All I nead to do is find a woman that might want to do this kind of thing as well. That might be the toughest task of all.

Pushkar was nice and I really liked it but it was time to be moving on. I spent several nights here and felt relaxed but thought I would head to Udaipur next. I never really felt comfortable with the owners that lived here. From the start they told me they had rooms for 250 rupees but when we got there the cheapest room was 300 which the German girls got and there were no rooms for 250. The rooms were quite clean though. I just never got a good feeling about these folks. They were always saying things like relax, you can trust us. They just seemed too calm like they were always up to something. In the end though I think they were ok for Indian Standards anyway.

I had a night bus which I never like as it seems like the drivers on these buses are crazy. The bus was about 40 minutes late but I enjoyed talking to a lady from Chile and two ladies traveling together from Poland and Spain, now living in Barcelona and Amsterdam respectively. They had sleepers whereas I had a seat as I do not fit in the sleepers too well. Actually I never tried it but I know the Vietnam buses were never very accommodating for someone my size. The trip to Udaipur went pretty good and before we knew it we were in Udaipur.

India - Udaipur
The four of us rode into town together and the Chilean kind of did her own thing in finding lodging but came to join us at breakfast. I think the Chilean ladies family had a lot of money as she said her Dad was paying for her trip. After breakfast I walked around with the Polish and Spanish ladyies. We were not finding the ideal place to stay and the Spanish lady indicated she did not want to be walking around forever. I was willing to walk around forever so I decided to look on my own as I wanted something cheap. I found one place but it was not that great. I walked to the main tourist area and found a place there for 300 rupees that is very nice. I think some of these places just give you the room cheap assuming that you will have a few meals at their place. This place had a nice rooftop restaurant overlooking the water palace. I slept for awhile as I didn't get much sleep on the night bus there. The electric went out for a couple hours each day as they do not have enough electricity for everyone. This was the case in Pushkar as well. You kind of get use to it after awhile.

Udaipur is a somewhat wealthy area as they have marble, copper and tourism so not everyone is after the tourist money which makes it quite nice. Although when I say wealthy here it is not the same as being wealthy in a western country. I did manage to feel relaxed here as I had a cheap but good room and was not being harassed all the time. I spent one evening with the Polish and Spanish ladies and spent one night watching the Bond Movie Octopussy, which was filmed here in Udaipur. Many hotels around town play this movie for the tourist. I found a person in town that I felt like I could trust. I actually left my flight information there and the next day when I returned he said he had the paperwork. This was a very nice gesture but I guess he really could not do anything with the tickets anyway. I could have gotten all the tickets without that information though as they were all electronic tickets. It was still very nice of him and I ended up booking my train tickets to Agra and to Varanasi with him as well. I learned later though that the travel time to Varanasi was much longer than he told me as he said around 9 hours but it was about twice that. He had me on a local train and not an express which I suspect saved me some money but I suspect he made more off me as well. I bought a couple souvenirs but after carrying them around for awhile found them to be junk as they easily chipped. I talked to a German lady one night who said she knew of a German couple who came to Indian on a 6 week tour but then left after 2 weeks because of how crazy it is. I definitely was not going to do that but I really was hating this place at times.

Anyway my stay in Udaipur was overall quite postive and I felt a little relaxed after leaving there. Man the weather was starting to get quite hot, which I did not expect in March but this is kind of a desert like area at least on the border of the desert.

Goodbye from Udaipur. If your coming to India I recommend this place as it is not full on but has enough craziness for a balanced Indian experience.

India- Varanasi
I left Agra on my way to Varanasi on the night train. I was a little nervous about my first Indian night train experience. I did not now what to expect. On the train I was in a roo with 3 beds on each side of the copartent I was in a top bed. I looked over to the lady in the compartment adjacent to me and recognized her to be a tourist as well which is always comforting. You can trust other tourist and trust is always an issue in India. I said hi and asked her if she snored. Her English was not too good but I understood the laughter well enough to recognize she got the joke. She was traveling with her mom and they were from Japan. You do not see a lot of Asian travelers here many more in Europe. She seemed really nice and I told her if she needs anything do not hesitatte to wake me in the night. She thanked me and I tried to go to sleep. I tried to forget the fact how dirty everything was here. I had my pink sheet directly on the cushion to keep me from contacting the dirt laden cushion directly.

The night ride went fine but very slowly. It seemed as if we were stopping at every train station and letting other trains by. The guy in Udaipur had indicated this train was about an 9 to 10 hour ride so I expected to be arriving in Varanasi around O and got out of my bed at 9. I was concerned know one would tell me when I was in Varanasi and I would not get off even though I thought it was the final stop.

I asked a guy on the train when he expected for us to be in Varanasi and he said around 4:00 and I just shook my head. That would be a 17 hour train ride and the gy had originally told e this wold be a 10 hor train ride. As the Indians eep saying, "Everything is Possible in India". I was getting qite tired of that saying actally as whenever it was said soething bad had or soething bad was abot to happen to e. At all the local train stations we stopped to let other trains fly by s. It was Holi as well soe nid of festival for them. This was one of the craziest festivals I have ever seen. Everyone was painted in different colors and kids were throwing dye on people passing by as I got hammered the day before with a load of red dye. On this train on a couple occasions some folks through water baloons into the train car. One got me pretty good so I moved to the other side of the car. Normally when this was about to happen their would be a bunch of noised. That is when I knew to duck.

We finally made it to Varanasi and I saw on the map the hotel I was wanting to go to was not too far from the train station. So rather than spending 30 rupees or $0.75 I chose to walk it. I needed to get in better shape anyway as I had not been doing much lately.

I said goodbye to the Koreans that I had met, who had given me a banana while on the train as well. As I walked off the railway tracks I went the opposite way than did most folks and immediately encountered 3 rickshaw drivers. Not as many as I would have encountered on the other main side of the train station but there were a few here as well. The first Rickshaw driver asked me where I was going, the standard question and I told them to the hotel and that I already had reservation, which I didn't. This way they would not try to direct you to another hotel where they got commission. I was planning to walk but already was sweating as it was brutally hot and said ok how much to the hotel and he said some outrageous number like 100 rupees. I laughed and said that is ridiculously high and walked away from him as he said ok you name the price. I told him he already gave me a price to be a little mean. I know how the system works and too be difficult sometimes I will tell them why not give me the best price the first time. If they do give you a good price that is really when you need to be wary as the people that scammed me had done that. I have seen a couple people do that now. They are banking on getting a commission from the hotel or the travel agency you book with. The next guy gave me a better price and I gave a lower price that I thought was reasonable and they gave a higher price and I just walked away and they followed me and said ok get in accepting my price. That is the way it works.

We made it to the hotel and the driver hung around I know he was wanting commission money. When the driver gets commission money that comes out of my pocket. I know that now and what I should do is name a location nearby and walk the short distance to the hotel myself. Although they will just follow you to your final hotel in hopes of commission.

I walked into this place called Hotel Surya and was impressed by the place itself but the people working the front desk were not that friendly. I told them I was looking for a cheap room and they said they have one for $450. I said ok I would like to take a look at it. A guy walked me to a room and I looked around and it looked quite nice and had AC something I normally did not get in India as I was staying in places too cheap. I said it was pretty good and ask if there was any other places available to look at? He said yes there is another room upstairs and we walked to it and it was ok but no AC and a lot hotter because of solar heat. I told him I will take the room downstairs which was the one with AC. I thought why not take the AC if it is being offered for the same price. I was happy with the room and got checked in with the front desk and went back to my room and laid down for awhile.

Around 6 I got up and had some supper at the nice restaurant nearyby. The place was quite lavish with white table cloths and napkins. I ordered a sandwhich with fries and a lassi which is essentially a milk shake type drink common in India. I was really tired and felt a little weird because of my mid day nap and decided to get more fires. I talked to an older lady from Germany who was traveling alone and doing some teaching in India. I got my bill and it was quite of bit more than I expected and I noticed where the extra fries, which were a bigger portion than the amount included with the sandwhich was 45 rupees while had paid 50 rupees for the whole meal that included a cheese sandwhich, fries and cole slaw. How could this be and I asked them how can an order of fries cost as much as the other 3 items and they said it was a bigger portion, which it was but that was still ridiculous. The German lady some of there pricing makes absolutely no since. I paid the bill but was not happy about it.

I used the internet for the rest of the night and went to bed around 10 after watching tv for awhile. I was a little supicous of this place already. I really did not feel like moving and thought I was getting a good value for what I was paying as I had AC and tv something I was not use to in India. Good night from Varanasi. As much as I was leary of going into town I knew tomorrow I would need to make the journey. Where I was staying here was not the Varanasi I had heard about.

The next morning I got up and went out for a swim as this place had a nice pool. The water appeared quite clear but I was still skeptical of the treatment so I tried to make sure I did not drink any of the water. A guy walked out there after 10 minutes wanting my room number and didn't give it to him and just told him I was staying at the hotel. I knew what he was trying to do. He was trying to charge me for the pool. I never did give it to him. The lonely planet book said non guest have to pay an admission but says nothing about guest. I had never heard of such a thing. I finished swimming and stretched for awhile. I really am getting out of shape and it felt good to swim and stretch.

After the workout I went for breakfast and after ordering a guy walked up to me and asked me if I was swimming in the pool. I said yes I was, he said you owe 100 rupees. I said you have got to be kidding me no where does it say you have to pay to use the pool. I gave him the money it amounted to $2.50. I could see what was happening at this place. They get you to stay cheap and then nickle and dime you for everything else. I walked to the front desk and they said yes you have to pay to use the pool. I told them I think you should post that as nowhere does it say that. The people working there this day had an attitude as well. I had made up my mind it was time to get out of this place.

I walked back to my table and after about 20 minutes the food had arrived and the eggs were not flipped. I had told them 2 sides which means flip them in India. They said no 1 side and I said no I told you 2 sides. Take them back and cook the other side. I was about ready to say good enough but I was not going to get food poisoning because of there mistake. The two French couples next to me were arguing about something as well and made them take something back they orded as well. As they were flipping the eggs I went up and got my stuff together as there was a 10:00 check out and I knew if I was even a few minutes late these clowns would try and chage me more.

The food came I gobbled it down it was not very good and got my stuff together. I went to the front desk and told them I was checking out. The bill was for 750 rupees not the 450 rupees they said it was going to be. I told them this bill is not right you said yesterday the room was 450 rupees. They said no you picked the room that is 750 rupees. I realized right then this was another damn scam. They tell me they have a room for 450 then show me a room that is 750. I was livid and told them precisely what had happened when I checked in. I told them I walked through this door asking for a cheap room and they showed me the two rooms now all of the sudden the price of 750 is mentioned which was never mentioned before. They showed me a slip that I had signed that had 750 written on it. I told them I never seen that number on there before and I said you probably wrote it on there after I signed it. They for some reason put that slip away I think I had guessed right about them writing the number down later. They said you need to talk to the guy that you signed in with yesterday. I said that is fine get him on the phone. I had already determined they were going to have to drag me out of this place as I was not paying an extra 300 rupees for that room even though I was only arguing about $7.50. It was the principal. I told the guy on the phone vary clearly and concisely how things transpired and he said I picked the room for 750 not the 450 room. I got loud with him and he got loud on the phone as well and then he hung up. I handed the phone over to the guy there and told him the guy hung up. I told them when I walk out of here you guys are only taking 450 rupees from me how we reach that end I don't care but that is the end result. I put the 450 on the counter. There was some other people in the room as well. They said here right down that you are only paying 450. I wrote down the scam and the reason why I was paying only 450 and took a picture of the note and left. Man I was getting sick of India in a hurry.

I walked outside and started walking into Varanassi. Of course rickshaw drivers were all around me wanting to give me a ride. I walked for a long time trying to find Hotel Buddha but could not find it. There are no street signs anywhere in India I do not think. I guess that is just a cost people do not want to pay when they are starving. I couldn't find it and people would tell me where it is and I knew they probably did not really know. Finally I asked a Rickshaw driver and he said he knew. This guy seemed pretty calm and cool and he took me right there. The place was full and I ask him to take me to the next place. The next place was called Hotel Ajaya and it was ok but I didn't see anyone else there which disturbed me a little. Hotel Budda had several tourist hanging around. I finally told the guy it was ok but was going to keep looking maybe I come back.

I asked the driver if he knew where Shanti Hotel was located and he said he did. He took me to as close as he could get and walked me to the place. This guy was very good and I liked him and wish I could have used him more but did not know how to reach him as I did not have a phone.

I walked into the place and the guys there said they had room and were way too relaxed for me to be relaxed. They said have a seat and five minutes they would show me the room. Some Israelies were there and asked me where I was from and I said America. They said cool we like Americans. I was thinking yes I am sure you do as we let you do anything and we have your back. I am sorry but if something does something that is unjust cruel or whatever I am not always going to have your back. It seems at times Israelis get a blank check from America. The Israelis that I meet on the road also seem a little arrogant to me and I can not say I am a big fan of theirs.

A few minutes later a French guy came down and was yelling at the guy running the desk because they had lost his socks when they washed them. He said he wanted a certain number of rupees and the guy working there said he was not paying anything. They yelled for several more minutes. I had waited now probably 15 minutes and was no closer to seeing a room. I had seen enough and told the guys I did not trust them and was leaving which I did. I walked out in the street not having a clue as to where I would stay. A guy came to me and said look at my guest house. I did not like how this started already and said no I will look on my own. I said how much and it was pretty cheap and looked at this place. I asked him so you own this place in front of the other people and he said something that did not make since. He was just a headhunter. The room was ok but again no other tourist, always a bad sign to me. I told him I was going to keep looking. I saw a place called Schindia Guest House and decided to check that place out. It appeared to be cheap and had a Ganges view. I walked past the Manikarnika Ghat which is where they incinerate the people. There was lots of wood stacked around and scales. People would come here and buy wood and then burn their family member. It was a crazy place and seemed a little eerie to me. To the folks there though it seemed just another day at work. I walked to the Guesthouse and th guy seemd a little cranky to me but the room was only 250 and would work ok. I did not have a sit down toilet, nor did I have a shower in the room, but I was tired of looking. I saw the Spanish guy I had met at the train station the night previous in Agra and saw other tourist. I put my bag down in there storage and walked around outside for awhile as they cleaned the room. I walked down past the incineration place and there was about 3 fires buring and of course I could not resist and looked at one of the fires and sure enough there were two legs sticking out of it and thought, " This Aint Kansas Toto!"
I did not look back. People tell me how this is natural and how it should be but for me death is a private matter not something for tourist to come and gawk at. A little latter a kid ask me if I wanted to go see burning bodies as he wanted to take me for money of course. Making money off this they are. That is not religion or respectful that is profiteering. In Indians case it is survival maybe as they are very poor.

I walked on and saw a guy from Poland that I talked to for awhile. He too thought this was a very weird place and was not impressed. I walked up to the German Bakery and had some lunch as it was now around 2 and the breakfast had worn off. The food was very good here and I really enjoyed my time spent there. I talked to some other folks as well most of which I would refer to ask hippies.

Later on the hotel I signed up for the morning boat ride down the Ganges as this is a must do thing when in Varanassi. I laid down for awhile although the room was very hot. After a couple hours the fan bearings started squealing and I turned if off. I roamed around outside for awhile and went in for supper as this place only serves food at a designated hour time slot. I looked at the menu and ordered a couple things which the guy did not have or would not make. This guy reminded me of the soup Nazi on Seinfeld. He was not polite at all. After some thought I decided to just go back to the German Bakery as I was not in the mood nor was my stomach to eat Indian food.

I walked past the 24 hour incineration place on my way to the bakery and some folks were being incinerated. At the bakery I had some potato soup that was really good, some pasta that was just ok and another smoothie that was really good. I was really happy with this place. I decided to use the internet in a place on my way back to the guesthouse and as soon as I sat down the guy offered me some pot. I jokingly told him I am trying to quit smoking that stuff jokingly as I have never smoked it. After about 5 minutes of internet usage I heard some chants and about 10 ft. Outside the door there was a body being paraded past me. I had encountered the same thing a couple times when I went to the bakery earlier in the evening. By the time the 60 minutes of my internet time had expired (rim shot) I had seen 7 bodies go past me. I sat there at this computer terminal thinking again, "Damn Toto This is Not Kansas! This is no where close to Kansas Toto. Man Toto what the hell am I doing here." I thought for a moment man this seems like a cheap horror movie. A cheap horror movie because it was not scary at all but just really, really weird. I started feeling a little callused to the whole thing and it did not really seem like a body after awhile. Just a really, really weird experience. I went back to my room in a weird mood. I was left wondering is this really happening. Is this place really like this?

I laid in bed with the ceiling fan running not really able to sleep. It was very hot. After about 3 hours the bearings started acting up again and I felt the fan and it was getting really hot so I thought I better turn it off. I opened the windows and after a few minutes the smoke from the incinerater had filled the room. I had to close the windows and ended up just laying there sweating the rest of the night. No fan, no windows open just my mind going round and round, but unfortunately that had no cooling effect maybe just the opposite effect actually. Good night from this place called Varanassi, India. Other travelers had said this place was full-on. They were right!

India - Varanasi 2
I had signed up the night before for a boat tour of the Ganges the next day and had to meet downstairs at 6:00 AM. I had not slept much at all and really was ready to leave the Big V or better known as Varanasi. Their was two polish girls also in the boat as well as a father and son German tandem.

We headed out just as the sun was starting to come up. There was smoking coming off the incineration area right next door to our guest house. I tried to keep my eyes from the area but it seemed like there was an irresistable pull that could not be quelled and I looked in that direction as did everyone else. That is a common occurrence throughout life. A person knows he should not look at the accident or the scantily clad person but he does. Is that instinctive? Not sure but everyone looked. The German tandem snuck in a couple photos that I thought they should not be taking and the kid who was oaring the boat told them no pictures. He oared us close to the burning which I was quite comfortable staying at a distance. I think the thinking by the young kid was the closer I get them to the bruning bodies the better the tip. Most things are about ways to get money in India. That is kind of true all over the world just more noticeable here.

He guided us further down the Ganges past the numerous other ghats. In many locations people were bathing as well. People come from long distances to bath in these waters as well as to die here. I think the people simply move here as they get old. A persons mortality becomes more and more evident as we age. We become more religious as well. One reason as a person gets older he has more time to do religious things the other is they think they will get something in return and that is eternal salvation. Religion is quite the interesting study. We have the billion people here in India that believe in Hinduism thinking cows are holy and worshipping many Gods including the Elephant and Monkey God. This is a lot different religion than say Christianity which is what I believe. We eat cows and think monkeys and elephants are just another animal. Man somebody is way off. What happens to the folks that are wrong. They sure seem like mutually exclusive ideas to me. Do the billions of Hindus go to that bad place are do we Christians get reincarnated as frogs. Don't look at me as I do not know?

The boat ride is just one of those things that I person must do while in Varanasi. The Polish girls took a boat cruise at sunset the night before as well.

We concluded the trip about an hour later and of course the boat driver said if you liked the service tips would be accepted. I gave him a little something, but it wasn't much. We headed in for breakfast as the hour when we could get food at our guesthouse was present as breakfast was served for one hour between 8 and 9.

I sat near the two polish girls and we talked about the different food offerings. The grouchy guy came in and there were about 8 people in the room. Some people ordered things and he said do not have it and then he just went through the items he had. He explained the day before was party and did not have some of the food items because of that or that other people were not there to help him because they were taking the day off. Some people submitted there orders but I skipped over and he went back into the kitchen. He came back out and started taking more orders. I asked the polish girls if they have had smiley face pancakes before and told them how they were made. I ask them if I should ask the cook about making smiley face pancakes and I told them I will probably not get any food if I do. He just seemed really grumpy. I placed my order and gingerly ask him if he has ever made smiley face pancakes and you would have thought that I told him his wife looked like my dog. He cut lose on me saying things like he was a working man and it was not time to be funny. He rant and raved and I told him I was just trying to make a joke. He must have carried on for another 2 minutes. I was stunned. I tried to tell him to forget the smiley face. Everyone else in the room was shocked as well. He said what is your room number which is for billing purposes later and I blurted out 106. He said there is no room and threw the order down on the table. I was like there goes my breakfast right there all because I tried to make a joke about putting a smiley face on the pancake. Wow this guy was a bitter angry man. He picked the order back up and wrote 206 on the paper and took it with him and walked back into the kitchen area. I was left thinking I was going to get food but wondered what he might do to it and knew I was going to be the last to get my food. At times during the rant I was so close to just leaving this room but I really wanted to talk more to the Polish woman I had taken the boat tour with. They were very nice and interesting and we joked a lot. I did get my food and I indeed was the last one to get my food. The food was very good but there was not a smiley face in the pancake like I had ordered but I did not say anything about it. A little latter iin the day I talked to the French Girls that were there later in the day and they told me that was crazy and that they would have walked out on the guy. Oh well what a start to the day.

Let's summarize the day so far. I get up at 5:30 after not sleeping all night because the fan did not work and I had to sweat all night, I took a boat tour to watch bodies being burned and dumped into the river. People were swimming then right next to this incineration ghat. I then get yelled at for making a joke about putting a smiley face in a pancake. Should I just go back to bed?

After breakfast I decided to go to the train station and see about booking a train from Mumbai to Goa my next stop. I walked around and past the German bakery that I liked a lot. I was starting to feel confident about finding this place. It really was quite confusing because of the narrow streets where only motorcylces ccould go. Rickshaws were not allowed in these streets as they were too narrow. Mark Twain once said this town was older than tradition. This is one of the oldest City's in the world. I made it out to the main street and ask a couple rickshaw drivers for a price to take me to the train station and they were all too high so I kept walking. After walking about a 0.25 mile I found a rickshaw driver for an accetable price. Him and another guy got in the front seat and I got in the back. The rickshaw looked quite banged up as did most rickshaws in this crazy town. He took off like a bat out of hell. I have stomached some unsettlingt rickshaw rides in the past but ther was none quite like this guy. I told him to slow down and he laughed and said he has been drinking and smoking. I did not know if he was kidding or serious. He kept driving fast and soon hit a concrete barrier dividing the traffic directions. We bounced off of that and I yelled at him again to slow this thing down. He didn't even turn around and kept the throttle down. After a few more minutes he hit another rickshaw and kept going. I knew I had to get out of this thing but he was going way to fast. A few minutes later he really hammered another rickshaw and this slowed us down enough that I felt comfortable jumping out. He didn't even know I had gotten out. Neither of the guys noticed I had jumped out. I only had my day pack as if had had my backpack this feat would not have been possible. I continued walking to the train station and was probably only about a 100 meters away and saw two rickshaws with two guys arguing. Sure enough it was my driver and the other driver who he had hit. The one guy saw me as I stuck out like a carrot in rice. They started walking towards me. I was tempted not to pay him, but I knew he would follow me around the train station until I paid. I gave him the money and told him he about killed me. He turned back to the guy he hit, as he was not concerned with me anymore as he had his money, and they continued arguing again. I walked on revaluating the day again. I got up with no sleep, took a boat ride to look at dead people being incinerated, got yelled at for mentioning putting a smiley face in a pancake (mind you I did not even ask him to do that in my pancake I just ask him if he was familiar with the technique) and then had to jump out of a rickshaw for fear for my life. Yes I think going back to bed would have been the better option.

I went into the train station and the tourist information room was packed with people and there was no way I could get in there I bet for 2 hours that was just crazy. I could wait here for hours and I was 95% sure the guy would say the trains are all full going from Mumbai to Goa and I would have to fly anyway.

I walked back out of the room and talked to a lady and a guy for awhile only to learn they got scammed by Shafi the same guy I was scammed by and they had the same sort of stuff happen to them in Srinagar as well. They said after much arguing they ended up getting all but $40 back. I was again sick. I lost $1,000. If I had argued longer I could have gotten that kind of money back? Ok reevaluating this day. Just after the 3 rickshaw crashes and me jumping out ad I unnecessarily lost $1,000. Man is there a bed at the train station I can get in?


I walked out of the train station feeling dazed and confused. Is this really happening? As the locals so coyly say, "Anything is possible in India!" I had all day so I decided to get in a rickshaw without a motor just pedals and gear. I figured this guy could not get up to life threatening speeds, but thgen again thought we would be sitting ducks for the auto rickshaws. It came down to picking your poison.

The driver pedaling this rickshaw actually seemed pretty good and the trip back to the downtown area was pretty uneventful. I walked to the German Bakery and saw some friendly faces. It was the Polish Girls from the guesthouse. They invited me over and we talked about a lot of different things including politics. I told them how I felt about the German Soldiers buried in Normany and how they were just following orders for fear of being killed by Hitler if they didn't. They said they had not thought of things that way. They told me how they feel there country is a sad country. I was surprised to hear them say that. We laughed a lot as well. They were a lot of fun to talk to and joked a lot as did I. It turned out to be a great lunch and the food was quite good as well. I had mentioned the place to them earlier in the day and they decided to give it a try. All parties were happy with the results of the lunch and the conversation. I know I was.

I told them I wanted to walk around the Ghat area one last time in the early evening which is something I often do the last night somewhere. They were afraid to walk around by theirself at night and I told them I would accompany them. We had a great time at night as well and actually launched some flowers onto the Ganges, which is a popular thing to do. We headed back around nine and they had there Vodka and went to bed. A friend of theirs told them that to avoid stomach problems they were supposed to take a swig of Vodka before they go to bed each night. I think their friend just wanted them to get boozed up. I gave them a hard time about that throughout the day and I probably ran the joke into the ground which I often do. I learned the technique from David Letterman but he seems to be able to pull it off where as I just make people mad. His delivery must be better than mine. Lets see he has been on late night television for 30 plus years. Maybe he is a little better than me? Surely not.

Recapping the days events. Just kidding that would be running things into the ground and quite frankly I have already begun efforts to suppress these memories. Good night from Varanasi. All I could think about is the next day when I would leaving this mad house!

The next Day
I was very happy with this day arriving. I had a flight in the afternoon. I went into the town and had breakfast with the Polish ladies. They had taken a yoga class that morning and appeared very refreshed. We talked and laughed and had a great time. We left about 11:00 and I said goodbye to them and went back to the guesthouse. I was wondering what was going to happen there with the crazy outburst from the guy at the restaurant as I had seen him at the front desk before but fortunately he was not there. I paid and they had gotten me a rickshaw to the airport. The rickshaw arrived and I turned my back on the Ganges River at Varanasi with there being a reasonably good chance I would never see this place again. I was glad to be leaving.

The Rickshaw Driver came to the guesthouse and I followed him through the narrow alleyways to his rickshaw. It was a rather crappy ride but most rickshaws are that way in Varanassi, India's holiest City. I got in and he talked to a guy for several minutes and then we were off. The guy seemed to be a pretty good driver and I felt comfortable with him. He then picked up another person who crowded into the front seat with him. This other guy seemed to know the driver well and was just along for the ride it appeared.

We stopped and dropped the guy off a food stand. We continued on and then he stopped and said he had to use the toilet saying he would be back in a couple minutes. I waited about 15 minutes and then began wondering if this is some sort of scam. I was wondering if I could actually drive this thing. I was considering just driving it to the airport and abandoning this thing there. I was not too serious about doing that but it did cross my mind. Finally he shows up with the other guy he dropped off earlier and they had food. About 20 minutes had passed. I didn't say much and just jumped into the rickshaw. The two of them were eating and actually offered some to me which I politely declined. After a few minutes the original driver gave the steerring to the other guy and he began driving. This other guy was not nearly as good and I guess was just learning as the original driver gave him instructions occasionally. After a few minutes of this I thought now I am paying these guys for this service so I should be able to tell them whose driving and I told the original driver to drive and for them to practice on the way back. He knew what I had said but didn't do it. I said well there goes any tip you clowns or getting. I then told them to stop so I could get a fruit juice. I figured I waited for them for 20 minutes they can wait for me for 2 minutes. We kept passing all these places selling what I wanted but they never stopped. Finally after about 10 minutes more of driving they stop at this road side portable stand and of course they did not have what I wanted. I figured it was family or something. I just got back in the rickshaw and told them to just get me to the airport.

Finally I made it and got checked in. Things went pretty smoothly. I talked to the French Girls that had stayed in the same place as I had for awhile. They seemed pretty down-to-earth and I learned they lived in the country in France. It seems the more rural folks are the more friendly they are. I met some British girls recently that seemed really nice as well and sure enough they lived in a rural area in northern England near the Lake District. I think I want to somehow live in a small town if at all possible but would like to stay close to a big City as well. I suspect I may not be able to have all that but that is in a perfect world.

Finally I was on my Spice Jet flight and off to Mumbai. I felt better and better the farther we flew from Varanassi but felt bad in that we were getting closer to Delhi another place I absolutely despise. I really would have liked to went back and had a chat with Shafi but I learned we were not even aloud off the plane so after landing I did not even move from my seat which is the best way to visit Delhi. Don't even get off the plane.

I got back in the air and I felt similarly elated to be putting distance between myself and Delhi. I arrived in Mumbai or Bombay, this is Bollywood town. I had read that 55% of the people here lived in slums and that they even had tours that would take you through the slums. Anything to make a buck in India. They are very poor people here.

I had no idea where I would stay and asked the tourist information folks where they recommending I stay. They pointed me in direction of a couple guys and they organized a room for me. The cost was 1,800 rupees which is like $40 which was the most I had paid anywhere in India. I thought well I will get a nice hotel close to the airport and get some much needed race. I had another flight out the next day to Goa.

The guy took m to the hotel and everything seemed ok at first. I asked for an ATM and the guy took me to the ATM and then tried to get me to go into a bar with him. He kept telling me how their are pretty women there. I told him I just wanted to get some rest and that I was tired. He persisted but I was not going to that bar.

At the hotel I watched some tv and then hear people washing dishes and there was loud music as well. The kitchen was right next to this room and the window would not even fully close properly. It sounded like people were washing dishses in the room with me. I finally went downstairs after putting up with this for a couple hours and asked them when all this noise would stop and then at 11 they said no more noise. I said ok and went back to my room. I then started thinking about breakfast in the morning which would be noisey as well. Finally at 11:30 and the noise was still there I was coming unglued. I packed my backpack and told them I was leaving this place. The music noice I learned was from the adjoining Cinema which shared a wall with this hotel. I had no idea where I would go but I knew I was not getting any sleep there. They tried to tell me I was paying if I left and we argued about that finally they said they would give me a different room. It was now after 12:00 and I had no idea where I would go. I looked at the room and took it. This was the madest I had been in a long long time. I paid a lot of money to come to a nice hotel and relax and get some much needed sleep. I had people washing dishes in my room and thumping base that would vibrate the lights in the room. Man get me out of India.

Good night from Mumbai. I am out of Varanasi, but the people at this hotel are crap too. Goodnight I need to try and get some sleep.

India - Goa March 26, 2008
About 6:00 AM I awoke to the sound of jets flying over head. They were close enough to vibrate the windows. Unbelievable I thought. God, what have I done to deserve all this? I really do try to live the "golden rule". What did Jesus say on the cross? Wasn't it "My God, My God why have you persecuted me? That is what I am thinking as the roar of a jet engine rumbles through the room. I wonder how I even got the 4 hours of sleep that I did get. I guess maybe God was looking after me enough to get 4 hours of sleep. I guess I should be thanking him not complaining to him. I remember after a good duck hunt once telling my Dad I was going to pray that we got more ducks the next day and he said no you should be thanking God for the hunt we had that day. That was powerful stuff for me and I will never forget what he said.

I have become paranoid in India. I put a table up against the door again last night. I really was mad last night. Ok back to the complaining. How do these guys have the nerve to put me in a room costing $40(expensive in India) and then are loud and wash dishes by a window that essentially is in my room. I could here there everyword. It was not like a whisper either maybe a horse whisper (not sure how that sounds) it was normal conversational volume. Then the banging dishes. I was not being unreasonable at all.

Anyway I walked downstairs and paid them the money and did not say a word. I just wanted to get the hell out of Dodge! They took me to the airport. I remember the folks at the airport who told me make sure you do not pay them for the taxi too and from the airport as that is included. Even those guys know how they operate and providing me with information on how not to get ripped off. Everyone tries to rip you off around here. Now that is a revelation! Not!

After severe traffic jamming we made it to the airport. Man I must say these guys in India are great drivers. The drivers we see in the United States say in New York that we think or crazy or these guys in India. The way they drive in the US is nothing, even though we think they are crazy.


I got my ticket and there was no cow or human shit on the floor like in Delhi's local airport and before I knew it I was up, up and away! Again I was almost as happy to get out of Mumbai as I was Varanassi. Man what can I expect now in Goa, my next stop? I really do want to just get out of India in the worst way! Goa is supposed to be a relaxing palce. I am not believing it until I get there.

We landed and I talked to some folks and found a Finnish guy who was going to the beach near Anjuna Beach, which is where I wanted to go so I shared the cost of a taxi with them. They were on a short trip and wanted to do some partying which the beach where they were staying was known for it's parties. They were dropped off and I walked as the rickshaw driver was wanting 150 rupees to drive me the few kilometers more to Anjuna Beach. It's less than $4 but as I have said before the only way I earn money these days is by saving it and I wanted the exercise as well. I can really enjoy the strength I feel when I take that backpack off and walk around without it.

A little ways down the road the taxi driver stopped me, I thought probably he had lowered his price but no he was wanting to give me a book one of the Finnish guys had left in the car. That was nice and honest. I wonder what he had done if the Finnish guy had left money in the car and not a book in Finnish. No I did not just say that. It was a nice gesture!

I walked around the coast line as there was a nice path there and made it to Ajuna Beach. It was very pretty beach and I went to the Flea market that they have on Wednesday that Lonely Planet recommends you see. It was indeed quite nice and I enjoyed meandering through the items. This area had a lot more relaxed environment than I had been used to seeing in India. It felt good and I felt calm at last. I saw someone drinking a Budweiser which is something I had not seen in a long,long time. I am not a big fan of Budweiser but I must admit at that moment a Budwesier sounded good. A touch of home in India is hard to come by but there in that bottle of Budwesier was a touch of home. God heard my cries for help and has delivered a Budwesier. Yes God works in mysterious ways! I could almost here him say even, "Dave, This Buds for you!"

I continued on and found shelter as recommended by Lonely Planet but it was not that nice so I checked at a couple other places. I found one for less than $10 as it was ok and the guy working there seemed really nice. The guy said I guess I had heard about the girl being murdered here on Ajuna Beach. I said I knew that the murder had taken place but did not know it happened here. He said yes it did. I was surprised he told me that but appreciated his honesty. This murder of a young English girl was all over the news and a lot of the problems was bad parenting and drug use. The people who committed the crime was in jail as far as I knew. I was not fearful of my safety really at all but would be a little more careful.

I ask the guy if I needed to pay now or when I leave and he said foreign tourist pay when they leave while Indian Tourist pay up front. He said Foreign tourist always pay but you can not trust Indian tourist,. I told him a couple people in India told me not to trust anyone in India. He said that is right you can not trust anyone in India .

I went to a local restaurant called Franciscos that was quite good. I talked to guy from Chicago who was with an Irish lady. They were fun to talk to. I had a beer and watched the sunset while listening to the waves lap on the beach. It was quite relaxing. This was the first time I had felt relaxed in a long, long time. It felt very good!

Good night from Goa! I am relaxed at last, I am relaxed at last, Thank God I am relaxed at last, as Martin Luther King might say!

India - Goa cont.
I had a good relaxing 4 days in Goa. I met a Russian Couple that seemed quite nice that I talked to on a couple different occasions. I also met a lady from Croatia that now lives in London. We talked on several occasions. I met two ladies from Iran who seemed to be party animals. They said people party in Iran they just do it behind closed doors. You have to know were the house parties are. In Goa I was offered hash about 5 times a day. As I sat with these two ladies from Iran they were smoking some hash mixed with tobacco. They were hanging out with a guy from Sweden who lived in the US for awhile so his English was very good. He plays the guitar and had played at restaurant nearby the previous night.

Anjuna Beach as stated in Lonely Planet was not a big party place which is what I was looking for. It was nice and relaxing with some hasseling but not a lot. A person really needs to take India quite seriously and should probably travel with a companion. I heard of a story once I left India of a person being drugged and waking up with one less kidney. Druggings are rare but not uncommon in India.

I used the intenet a couple days and was dissappointed in that I could not find a cheap flight from Goa to Bangalore and had to take another bus . I really was a little afraid of the night buses in India. Not to the level of the night buses in Vietnam but still afraid. All the trains were booked for like two weeks out as this was a busy time in India.

I left on Goa and headed to Bangalore. I get a little restless if I stay in a place for more than 4 days. I guess I can not completely relax ever. Not sure I want to completely relax actually.

I headed into the main City in the Goa where the Portugese had a settlement once. There was several catholic churches there. It was great to see a cross again as all I have seen in the last 2.5 months had been Buddha's and Hindi stuff. Again I felt a little like I was home again. I headed back and went to a restaurant that Lonely Planet recommended and it was just ok for me. I headed to the bus station to wait for my bus. I talked to a lady from Sweden who was traveling alone. She was headed to Mumbai. Then all of the sudden they came walking quickely by and said Bangalore? I said yep and they said come with me and we hurriedly took off. There is no organization in India you better be ready to go at any time. They were trying to flag down a bus that appeared did not know they were supposed to stop there. Finally they did stop and I jumped on. I sat by a guy with dred loks from Malvive (sp) a small island off the southern coast of India. He was quite cool as was his two friends Very nice guy. They said there money goes quite far in India and ask about the dollar and I said yes it goes far as well.

The bus ride went pretty good. There was one time in the middle of the night that the bus stopped and I heard a large group of men talking and I still today am not sure what was going on. It may had been a wreck and they were trying to clear the road. Not sure.

I made it into Bangalore around 9 and felt glad to get off my last Indian Bus.

I had two days and one night to spend in Bangalore. I found a rickshaw driver that actually seemed ok. This is usually worrisome as the nicest ones are often the meanest ones. Make since?

I gave him directions to one hotel and told him that he may have to go to another one and already told him he was taking me to the nearby one if the first option did not have vacancy with no extra charge. He said sure no problem. We went to the first location and sure enough it was full as lonely planet said it might be. I went to the next place but the guy took me to the more expensive branch of the hotel. I told him he had taken me to the wrong one but realized it was probably an honest mistake. I then showed him where the correct one was and he started driving me there and then pulled out a brochure for another place where I am sure he gets a heafty commission. I said no take me to this one and sure enough before long we are pulling into the one I told him not to. The place looked ok and I got a little pertubed with the guy and told him to take me to the other place. He got me close to it and finally I told him just let me out. I paid him a little extra because he did have to drive a little farther. He would not leave as he wanted the commission for bringing me there. I tried to disappear but he saw me and followed me to the hotel. It is hard to disappear with a backpack on. I went in and saw him in his rickshaw just outside. This place had a room and I looked at it and for the price it would do. Nothing special, but ok for India, and for the price of $8. I took a nap for awhile and then grabbed something to eat at the original hotel I looked at as Lonely Planet said the restaurant is very good. I orderd a vegetable sandwhich appetizer and that is what you got a couple very small pieces of cucumber and lettuce. Very bland and very bad. I ate that first while I was still very hungry. I also got some other food that I did not like either. Most people got Indian food, which I assume was very good, as the place was very busy. After the bad meal I headed back to sleep a little and then went into Bangalore proper to check things out that night. It is a very modern City, at least for Indian Standards, and I saw several tourist. There even was McDonalds, KFC and Pizza Hut. I tried to find a lonely planet for Greece but the stores were closed and I ended up having a beer at a place called NASA which was in the shape of a space shuttle and the beer was very expensive and the music very loud and lots of smokers. Man am I getting old with all the complaining.

From there I went and used the internet for about 3 hours. I think if I had access to internet for 24 hours a day I would probablly use it for that long. I went to bed around 12 and the City seemed to be still going strong. I walked back in an area where I had seen some men playing Cricket a little earlier in the day and was a little nervous as it was not very well lit. I had considered spending $0.50 and getting a rickshaw but decided to just walk as I saw other folks walking so it could not be that dangerous. I made it just fine and called it a night. Tomorrow I leave India. Man I have been looking forward to this day for about 28 days now and I have only been in India for 30 days. I was unable to fully turn those lemons into lemonade.

March 31, 2008 a day that will live in infamy at least in my little insignificant world! I was heading to Dubai. I have never been so excited to head to the middle east. We are being raised these days to hate the Muslims that live there. Well Mr. Bush I do not hate them. I do not like the extremist muslims though just like I do not like the extremist, like you either. Get a couple photo ops with you praying and then go attack a country. That is a very Christian thing to do Mr. Bush? Do you really think God wants you to kill your fellow man for oil?

I found a bookstore in the morning that sold the Lonely Planet book I wanted and then used the internet until it was time for me to leave. I took a Rickshaw to the airport in the afternoon. My last rickshaw ride was quite uneventful after so many memorable ones.

I was about 3 hours early and good thing as the line was long and slow. I am not sure why airports are so unorganized, but they are.

After a month in India, that seemed like a year, it was over. I exaggerate a little. If a person is going to India for the first time I recommend going to places like Udaipur and Pushkar to get a good feel for what India is like, but not the full on stuff. For me making a first trip to Delhi, Jaipur, Agra (Just see Taj Mahal), Varanasi and Srinagar are just too full on if going by yourself or for a first trip. Also Mumbai may be ok, but I only spent a few hours there in between flights so do not know much about that place. Bangalore is somewhat of an international City, but you can get a feel for India there as well. Goa is an international travel destination and is ok as a cheap place to rest and relax, but it is not India.

Well I am glad I came to India and am even more glad to be leaving. Hasta Luego India!

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Photos

Taj Mahal
The only building that I liked more than this building during my travels is St. Peters Basilica in Rome.

Varanasi Ghats
Varanasi is the holiest city in India. People come here to die and to bath in the Ganges River, the holiest river in India. The dead are incinerated and their ashes are spread in the Ganges River.

Udaipur
This is the water palace that was used in the Bond Movie Octopussy.

Good Stacking!
And I use to have trouble stacking hay on a wagon. I bet these guys could do it well.

Flying to Delhi
Glass of Scotch. I am going to need this!

Scam! Scam ! Scam!
I lost a lot of money here. The Rickshaw driver dropped me off here after I told him I wanted to go to the Tourist Information Office. This is not a tourist office. This scam was very elaborate. These guys would be in jail in the USA, but this is not the USA this is India.

I am an Idiot
The scam included a trip to Kashmir which I soon learn is not what I expected. See nest pic!

My Guide
Dal Lake in Srinagar. To get to where I was staying on a houseboat we had to go by boat.

My Boat is the Yellow Boat
They tried to get me to stay on this boat.

False Advertising
This is what my room on the boat was supposed to look like!

This was to be my bed.
They tried to get me to sleep in a house on shore but I told them I had booked a houseboat. He then took me to this room and said I was to sleep here. More arguments ensued and finally they put me on the right boat.

Dandoo Palace
This is the boat I stayed on. After lots of arguing they finally put me on this boat where I was supposed to stay. It was not too good either. The sewage went right into the water.

A nearby Park
This place has potential, but until India and Pakistan quit fighting and the terrorism stops, this area will not realize it's potential.

Kasmir Wool
Making a Kashmir rug!

Jack from Great Britain
Jack was staying on the boat with me. After I left he was there by himself. I hope he made it home safely.

A bowl of food for the cats?
See next pic.

The food is for this lady.
A guy there told me the food is for the lady. A lot of the people are very poor in Kashmir. Because of terrorist attacks there there are not many tourist these days.

Exotic Adventures Travel
Never Book a trip with these guys. They took me for a lot of money. They would be in jail if they were in the USA.

Two German Girls who fell for same Scam as me.
The people that scammed us drove around in cars that have signs like this, "love is in the air" which the German girls are pointing out.

Tourist Obligation
Mandatory picture of Snake charmer.

City of Pushkar
View from Hotel where I stayed.

Pushkar Hotel
For around $15 this was my room

Pushkar - Camel Ride
A guy from Norway rode on the camel with me.

Pushkar - Camping
We were given who blanket and slept on the desert floor.

Pushkar - Rogue Monkeys
I got up early one morning and saw these two guys making a mess on the rooftop.

Pushkar - Swastika
The swastika is a symbol of good luck, welfare, prosperity or victory in hinduism.

Udaipur - Travelers
These ladies are from Poland and Spain and now live in Madrid and Amsterdam respectively. They helped me celebrate my birthday.

Udaipur - Cooking Class
Mom told me to take a cooking class as her birthday gift to me.

Udaipur - Marble
In Udaipur you are not constantly haggled as the locals have other means of income like marble production.

Udaipur to Agra - Bus Trip
About 3 in the morning this bus I was on crashed into another bus and then they chased each other on the highway.

Agra - Taj Mahal
You may have heard of this place before? View from the rooftop hotel where I stayed.

Agra - Henna Art
Very popular in India

Agra - Taj Mahal
I had to leave the next day and 30 minutes before the Taj closed I learned the Taj grounds were closed the next day. I hurriedly ran there at dusk.

Agra - Tame Bulls
This kid is not at all afraid of this big guy.

Varanassi - Tent on top of vehicle.
Pretty neat do not have to worry about critters on the ground.

Varanassi- Scams
I was told this place had rooms for a price I mentioned and they showed me two rooms. The next morning they said I picked the more expensive room. I refused to pay the extra money and wrote this letter to them.

Varanassi - Color festival
This particular festival resulted in people throwing dye on each other.

Varanassi - Rickshaw Crash
I was in this Richshaw when they crashed. The people ended up getting in this argument over this crash.

Varanassi - Incineration Ghat
They incinerate the dead here.

Varanasi - Bathers
The Ganges River is the holiest river in India and people go there to bath.

Varanassi - My Hotel
I stayed in the big yellow building in the middle of this picture.

Varanassi - Child Play
The little girl here was shoving the little boy towards the bull and the little boy would cry.

Varanassi - I was just there.
I scratched my head and thought about my time in Srinagar just a few weeks earlier.

Varanassi - Hard on Rickshaws
Of all the towns in India the Rickshaws were most banged up here in Varanassi

Mumbai - River of Sludge
This is where all the Indi films are made. There are some really poor people in this place. Some groups even gave tours of the slums.

Goa - A Cross
After traveling in Vietnam, China and India for approximately 2.5 months I finally saw a cross. It was comforting to see something that was familiar

Goa - Hippie Jogger
This guy jogged the beach each morning.

Panaji
The Europeans where here and they brought their crosses.

Old Goa - Bus driver
It felt comforting to see familiar religious symbols.

Bangalore - The Boss
The first issue of Rolling Stone magazine in India and look who is on the cover! I bought the issue!

Bangalore - Cricket Crazy
Here are some adults practicing Cricket.