21 - 22 November 2015 - Jaipur

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21 - 22 November 2015 - Jaipur



We left Pushkar and all its temporary accommodation and bazaars, travelling along a pretty good road with fewer cattle. We continued to see camels and horses on their way to the Camel Fair, as well as over-loaded busses of pilgrim Indians. After about 100kms we stopped for coffee. The coffee in India is not too bad but their specialty is the masala tea - black or white. It's OK but that is coming from a usual non-tea drinker. Tom likes it. We only had 140kms to drive today so we arrived in Jaipur at about 12.30pm and had a massage which Ravi organized for us. My masseuse was a little short plump friendly lady. Tom had a bloke who perhaps could have used a bit more muscle! We both felt great after the hour.



Ravi then took us to Incredible Real India's office in Jaipur to meet with Devender who had to organize the change in arrangements re our flight to Kathmandu. Our flight had been cancelled (as often happens in India!), but Devender was onto it. This Indian-based company has been fantastic. I was a little hesitant when I booked with them as I had heard stories about Indian companies with no Australia rep but Incredible Real India has been excellent. We have also learned a lot about their country.



Our new arrangement was an indirect flight via Delhi with an over-night stop in Delhi. After a tea and coffee with Devender we left to check-in at theTraditional Heritage Haveli, our accommodation for the next 2 nights.



This was Ravi's home city so he was keen to buy us a local Lassi, which he said is the best and original. This is a yoghurt drink that had slightly dried fresh curd on the top served in a heavy earthenware mug and is sweet. We had already had a Lassi in Udaipur (I had mango and Tom had plain) but the Jaipur Lassi was very different and very tasty. Tom's blood sugar level went up but I reckon it was worth it!!



Jaipur is a city of over 3 million people. It is the capital of Rajasthan however, originally Amber was which is about 11kms NE from the old town which is where the Amber Fort is built.



It is known as the Pink City as many of the walls of buildings in the crenellated walled old city are painted pink. The wall is punctuated by grand gateways, the major one being Chanddpol (pol means 'gate'). Avenues divide the Pink City into neat rectangles, each specialising in certain craft, as ordained in the ancient Hindu texts. The main bazaars included Johari, Tripolia, Bupu and Chandpol Bazaars.



That night we caught a tuktuk for about 3kms to dinner at Niro's, a restaurant recommended by Ravi and the Lonely Planet. It lived up to its recommendations. The restaurant was on M.I. Road, a major road for restaurants. We even had a glass or 2 of the local red which is not too bad. We Australians are so used to full bodied reds, but India is doing well. Tom actually knows the 1st Indian wine maker. He did his oenology education at Roseworthy Agricultural College where Tom studied.



After a good sleep, we started our next big day as we drove to the Amber Fort. All tourists seem to enjoy an elephant ride up the zig-zag entry to the Amber Fort. We were no exception.



The ride lasted about 15 minutes and from the back of the elephant, we had a fantastic view of the Maoto Lake and highly manicured gardens. We also saw a major wall rolling over the hillside. It almost looked like the Great Wall of China.



We also saw the Jaigarh Fort and Nahargarh Fort on the surrounding hilltops.



Next we visited the City Palace, a complex of courtyards, gardens and buildings which is right in the centre of the Old City.



The outer wall was built by Jai Singh but within it the palace has been enlarged and adapted over centuries. There are palace buildings from different eras, some dating from the early 20th century.



Despite the gradual development, the whole is a striking blend of Rajasthani and Moghal architecture. We used an audio guide to help us learn about the complex. It also had a substantial museum, including textiles and weaponry. They served good coffee in their café too!!!!



Adjacent to the City Palace is Jantar Mantar, an observatory begun by Jai Singh in 1728 that resembles a collection of giant bizarre sculptures. Built for measuring the heavens, the name is derived from the Sanskrit, 'yanta mantr, ! Before constructing the observatory he sent scholars abroad to study foreign constructs. He built 5 observatories in total and this is the largest which was restored in 1901.



We then walked through a couple of the large gates, to the Hawa Mahal, Jaipur's most distinctive landmark. It is an extraordinary, fairy-tale, pink sandstone, delicately honey-combed hive that rises a dizzying 5 stories. It was constructed in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh to enable ladies of the royal household to watch the life and processions of the city.



We stood in the middle of the busy road, gazing at this building for some time.



By this time it was 5.00pm and we had been walking all day (except for lunch and coffee). But wait, there was more to see in this big, historic city.



As it was just before sunset (which was setting at 6.00pm) we visited the stunning Birla Temple, a dazzling white marble structure. It was beautiful.



Inside the Temple was an open hall with the main religious alters down one end - all dripping with gold. No photographs were allowed.



The sunset was beautiful with individual small temples dotted around the complex. There was yet another fort on top of the hill so Jaipur was a heavily fortified city in years gone by.



That night we went back to M.I. Road to another restaurant called Chopper Chimney, another positive restaurant experience.



We have really enjoyed Jaipur, the city where our driver Ravi lives. Next morning, it was off toso THE highlight of the tour - the Taj Mahal in Agra.

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